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disco1
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Mud Driving Techniques [ALL]
MUD DRIVING TIPS
If the mud can be walked over without breaking through, you’re in with a chance. If you stand on the mud and sink in your boots or wellingtons, there’s no chance for the vehicle (install chains)!
Basically, if you can’t walk it – you can’t drive it!
Deflate your tire pressure in the range: 36-20 psi (250-104 kpa).
However, reducing tyre pressure can help in ‘bottomless’ mud whereas it can make things worse when a hard surface is below the mud
• Check on foot, the depth of mud or water in the bog hole. Use a wading stick. It can be left in the mud to indicate danger spots such as, unseen large rocks, tree trunks, deep holes etc. Walk down one intended wheel track prodding the ground for depth, and then return down the other track.
• Set up recovery gear before hand. Attach winch cable to recovery point.
• Apply diff lock and axle locks.
• Select appropriate gear, usually 2nd or 3rd low range depending on depth. Too low a gear will dig the tyres into the mud.
• If the forward travel is a must and the mud is over a long stretch, fit chains.
• Turn on the windshield wiper before slogging through a big mud puddles. The wipers may not be able to handle a thick layer after it accumulates.
• Steady power and momentum must not be lost.
• Keep wheels in tracks of previous vehicles. If the ruts become too deep, dig away one of the sides to help the wheel to drive out where straddling is a reasonable alternative. If beginning to get stuck, swing the wheel from side to side. This works just as well in reverse.
• If the wheels begin to spin, ease off the throttle.
• If stuck, try immediate reverse, and stay in your own tyre ruts. If this does not work, try spinning the tyres to clean the treads of mud, this could be enough to get motion again.
• If there is an incline ahead, approach with more speed.
• If there is no previous tracks, travel on the crown of the road if possible.
• If the wheels on one side are higher, the lower wheels will generally have better traction, as they have more weight.
• Heavily rutted, muddy tracks can mask steering feel, due to the tram tracking affect of the conditions. Be ready to correct this with gentle steering inputs, as a heavy correction can cause the vehicle to slide.
• Descending steep muddy inclines use:- low range, 2nd gear, diff, and axle locks (if fitted) engaged, chains on if necessary.
• Ascending steep muddy inclines use:- low range, 1st gear, diff, and axle locks (if fitted) engaged, chains on if necessary.
• If only one set of chains is carried, fit them to the rear wheels when ascending, and to the front wheels when descending.
• Clean any mud caked onto the driveshaft, as it could throw them out of balance and cause severe damage, especially when back on the highway at speed.
MUD DRIVING TIPS
If the mud can be walked over without breaking through, you’re in with a chance. If you stand on the mud and sink in your boots or wellingtons, there’s no chance for the vehicle (install chains)!
Basically, if you can’t walk it – you can’t drive it!
Deflate your tire pressure in the range: 36-20 psi (250-104 kpa).
However, reducing tyre pressure can help in ‘bottomless’ mud whereas it can make things worse when a hard surface is below the mud
• Check on foot, the depth of mud or water in the bog hole. Use a wading stick. It can be left in the mud to indicate danger spots such as, unseen large rocks, tree trunks, deep holes etc. Walk down one intended wheel track prodding the ground for depth, and then return down the other track.
• Set up recovery gear before hand. Attach winch cable to recovery point.
• Apply diff lock and axle locks.
• Select appropriate gear, usually 2nd or 3rd low range depending on depth. Too low a gear will dig the tyres into the mud.
• If the forward travel is a must and the mud is over a long stretch, fit chains.
• Turn on the windshield wiper before slogging through a big mud puddles. The wipers may not be able to handle a thick layer after it accumulates.
• Steady power and momentum must not be lost.
• Keep wheels in tracks of previous vehicles. If the ruts become too deep, dig away one of the sides to help the wheel to drive out where straddling is a reasonable alternative. If beginning to get stuck, swing the wheel from side to side. This works just as well in reverse.
• If the wheels begin to spin, ease off the throttle.
• If stuck, try immediate reverse, and stay in your own tyre ruts. If this does not work, try spinning the tyres to clean the treads of mud, this could be enough to get motion again.
• If there is an incline ahead, approach with more speed.
• If there is no previous tracks, travel on the crown of the road if possible.
• If the wheels on one side are higher, the lower wheels will generally have better traction, as they have more weight.
• Heavily rutted, muddy tracks can mask steering feel, due to the tram tracking affect of the conditions. Be ready to correct this with gentle steering inputs, as a heavy correction can cause the vehicle to slide.
• Descending steep muddy inclines use:- low range, 2nd gear, diff, and axle locks (if fitted) engaged, chains on if necessary.
• Ascending steep muddy inclines use:- low range, 1st gear, diff, and axle locks (if fitted) engaged, chains on if necessary.
• If only one set of chains is carried, fit them to the rear wheels when ascending, and to the front wheels when descending.
• Clean any mud caked onto the driveshaft, as it could throw them out of balance and cause severe damage, especially when back on the highway at speed.
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