Hi,
Not a major issue, but wondering if easy fix?
Have noticed this winter on cold startup the revs are staying at 1,200rpm when I shift into drive resulting in a bit of a jolt as drive engages. If I blip the gas before engaging drive, revs stay at 1,200rpm instead of non-choke 600rpm. In Toronto so weather reasonably cold. Just do not recall experiencing this in winters past. Of course could sit there for a few mins to wait till choke disengages, but prefer to avoid idling re. Burning gas for no reason.
2010 LR4, V8, 100k miles
I'd suspect the engine coolant temp sensor is giving the wrong resistance value to the ECM in thinking the engine is much colder than it actually is hence "FUEL ENRICHMENT" being longer duty cycle allowing engine to run properly until up to operating temp. Warm or up to normal operating temp the engine will respond normal at leaner F/A ration than at cold start temps.
There is no "CHOKE" on any EFI equipped engines..
As far as initial cold start revs it's true manufacrures added this feature to decrease the time the CAT's get up to operating temp and begin working properly converting nasty exhaust by-products to less harmful products.
Personally, high revving any engine from stone cold especially your up north cold climate condition increases engine wear a lot more than a cold started engine in lests say a 68*F morning like in California as example.
Cold starts especially with a high revving initial rpm's amounts to arond 90% of your normal engine wear.
Don't forget thick cold oil along with no oil pressure after a hot shutdown the night before your intial high revs startup your engine has no oil pressure, wear city to the max.
I had 3,100 initial cold start rpm idle before oil pressure was developed. I installed a 3 quart (MasterLube.org) pre-oiler along with restricted the IAC bypass hose reducing initial cold start rpm's to 925 rpm's which when hot the ECU holds at 775 rpm's idle.
Way less cold start engine wear along with before the crank ever rotates the engine has received 8-10 seconds pressurized oil (adjustable timer) at 38 psi to the engine. Every internal part lubed and dripping especially the crank now able to sling oil "upstairs" oil into the cylinder bores.
I prefer my engines especially the 4.9 (antique to many people stroked 4.6 LR engine) to a long healthy 300K mile life and not an oil burner due to excessive uneccessary preventable wear. Very low leakdown compression checks vs any "as delivered factory brand engines" no matter the brand. Engine "GearHead" to the max at this end.
Yes a POS vs OHC to many, a 95 Disco One with 5 speed, Mark Adams chip along with several internal mods, she's a keeper 23 years and counting DIY maintenance zero no touch by Stealerships.
JMO, besides battery and block heater a Pre-Oiler system install if I lived up north in your climate vs near the S.F. Bay area. Mountains (fly fishing) along with Gold country or the ocean a couple minutes and hours reached including up to 9,996' mountain passes. I like to buzz the twisties in safety after suspension mods applied.
My "carbon Footprint" has been known to include two long 12" wide rubber streaks behind the MPI 484 cu/in Ford FE series engine I built for the 68 F250 Camper Special. Improved gas mileage vs carbs a plus along with the increased fun factor.....~~=o&o>.......