Should I keep my 2018 LR Discovery Diesel long term?

[benwilliams]

I have a diesel Td5 disco 5. Very happy, long unmade Australian roads not a problem, the airbag suspension is better than the suspension on other comparable vehicles. So far 87K kms with no issues. Since the Defender has less space inside and also costs alot, I'm not inclined to change a very capable and extremely comfortable vehicle.

 

[BeemerNut]

What made you think that diesel will not be available? No way as without diesel as big rigs move this country, hell a three day zero items transported by big rigs would put the US to it's knees. Unless you live in a swap like Hawwaii where rust and corrosion is an issue before mechanical failures happed i'd drive and keep on enjoying your LR until something that hasn't happened anyway happens then deal with it. Finding a good used engine from a LR that had an early death due to an accident knowing it wasn't an engine failure that killed it.
Thinking of other brands of diesel vehicles with their issues, so what unless you owned one, why worry about other brands?

Owning any LR already is a love hate relationship thing anyway.
My wife in a hot second would love to seen our now now mine only 95 D1 5 spd LR being finished off in crusher.
Out the 3.9 then 4.6 later turned into a 4.9 engine (LR in a LR not some butchered Chevy install BS) with several other improvements including suspension it now runs and handles filling my needs. Big increase in the fun factor department, I like driving paved twisty mountain roads at speed, if stock it would of been on its top 21 years ago.

It's been a battle for years allowing diesel powered vehicles in the US vs the rest of the world diesels are normal.

Dodge truck friend told me his diesel keeps on running while the rest of the truck has fallen apart.
i'll shut up now being a gasoline person having several European diesel vehicle owning friends that would never thinking of owning gasoline vehicles.

 

[Bock]

Thanks for commenting. I say I'm worried about car diesel being continued because both my paid for Diesel VW Jetta Wagon was literally taken from me because some energetic guy at VW figured out how to lie on what mileage they would get and they got caught. Within a year I watched my car being repossessed as they refused to pass inspection the next time. Then I bought an amazing Jeep Cherokee Diesel Overland- great car and sure enough a couple three years into it with almost 100,000 the same thing happened at Jeep and they were recalled and I just recently got a paltry sum that is laughable. I think all those global warming persons have decided they'll knock off all non-electric cars and diesel is the most offensive because of how nasty they used to be back in the 1970's. So I got the Discovery because it was the only diesel SUV with *****(remember I tow horse trailers and you have to buy a Volvo 90 to get minimal hp to tow). Cheers and thx for your answer!!

 

[Bock]

Sell it while you can. Mine suffered catastrophic engine failure (2017 plate with 55k on the clock) cost me 14k for a recon engine and outed it straight away. Out of warranty but still fighting my case, will be going to court if need be.
However if you are willing or now know about the above recommendation to change oil more regular it could well be fine.

 

[Bock]

Thanks and I do appreciate your speaking up.Wish you well resolving the legal issue. To the upside I do oil changes every 5-6000 miles and baby it so hope it holds up

 

[BeemerNut]

Thanks for commenting. I say I'm worried about car diesel being continued because both my paid for Diesel VW Jetta Wagon was literally taken from me because some energetic guy at VW figured out how to lie on what mileage they would get and they got caught. Within a year I watched my car being repossessed as they refused to pass inspection the next time. Then I bought an amazing Jeep Cherokee Diesel Overland- great car and sure enough a couple three years into it with almost 100,000 the same thing happened at Jeep and they were recalled and I just recently got a paltry sum that is laughable. I think all those global warming persons have decided they'll knock off all non-electric cars and diesel is the most offensive because of how nasty they used to be back in the 1970's. So I got the Discovery because it was the only diesel SUV with *****(remember I tow horse trailers and you have to buy a Volvo 90 to get minimal hp to tow). Cheers and thx for your answer!!

WOW!.
How can your vehicle be reposseded when you own it free and clear? A forced buy back and what about the money lost that you paid for it? No legal action to get back all your money? Explain how bad the system was? Not picking on ya, I hate reading this type of crap. I did battle with Western General as well LR including PO's 60K end of lease full service not done but billed. Stealership told me to "F-O" not being the owner.
LR North America they gave them a "tuneup"and on notice, no thanks their freebie I do my own service and work. My time is free not cutting corners, intalling special magnets in every fill and drain plug, oversize oil filters that fit the thread and gasket surface. Modified suspension joints now with zerks still tight at 144K miles. No submarine duty street only.
I wasn't aware they pulled a schittie on you and others about the VW diesel BS that went down years ago. I recall they "tweeked" to show cleaner emissions and got caught but not this buy back taking away your vehicle unless they paid you in full value with a little deduction as a "used service vehicle" you did get some use out of it.
Hammered a second time with the Jeep, damn bro sorry to read this.

Back to basics a vehicle not requiring smog checks, install a diesel engine and drivetrain of your choice with accessories then enjoy.

Just like the anti vehcile people trying to have vehicles 15-20 years old automatically removed and crushed including say your mint 1934 Rolls Royce if they had their way. Tell Jay Leno that.
Some people by 6-8 years the vehicle is beat to death only worth scrap weight.

I get cash for clunkers by mail for my 95 D1 Disco which I would not trade for any year or model LR period! Several years ongoing project getting it right for my use and fun driving enjoyment. Still have that smile driving it listening to the Borla exhaust music, no not stupid high school noise but the sweet rumble stirring the stick.
Pre-oiler first addition before new engine installed.

There's a reason why I own 54, 56, 68, 69, 70 cars and trucks owning them 50+ years besides no smog checks, all metal no plastic vehicles. Yes the 81, 95 D1, 04 & 10 Ford Escape V6 vehicles require smog checks unless under "non-op". I can work on them requiring brakes, gas and oil maintenance and go easily passing the 24 month Kalif. smog check BS.
Not as bad as some states requiring some monkey to rip apart your full floating 3/4 T axles checking brakes anually states. Yes the drums and hubs a single unit. Proper by cleaning, repacking bearings and seals replacements before assembly.

Have seen wheel bearing placed on crusty dirty leaf springs then reinstalled dirt included wheel bearings back togther after brake inspection plus chiseled on 2 3/8" axle nut & lock nut not having the proper socket.
Maybe I should apply this dirty Caveman type of service on the aircraft I worked on at United Airlines? Think the FAA and public will approve? So what a plane goes down 385 killed?

Top line Jeep Grand Cherokee w/V6 garage queen a friend loved ending up dumping it as it had touch screen and several electrical issues plus random functioning rear AC all into thousands of dollars to fix only to fail again. The engine computer took a dump out in the Arizona desert, big tow bill. He lost over $19K selling it parked "as-is", he flew home.
He's went back to basics the late 60's and early 70's two Suburban Chubbies having no plascic but A/C and carbs he can wrench on.

My case 95 D1 a OB1 vehicle for a reason (5 spd rare) now passes as "too clean" with chip installed. Looks stock passing the visual test, it's what's inside they do not know about in displacement.

I recall BMW had a US approved diesel SUV but again too much electronic crap to go wrong and it will.
LR and Mercedes both struggling to see which one wins the award being the worst vehicle making the bottom of the list. Both living off their past reputation of quality and reliability.
You decide the reliability issue and brand. Blessed the D1 has a never failed me yet with distributor ignition allowing altered advance curve vs computer controlled and known to fail coil packs. End of rant sorry. Thank goodness I grew up wrenching on and building engines and hot rodding in the 60's era, we had a lot of fun.....~~=o&o>......

 

[mechano2020]

@Bock - here are my 2 cents, for what its worth.
1- if you have an INGENIUM motor in it, which you probably do ( 2 turbos cascaded ) that may be problematic in long run. Is prone to overheating and may not last as long as you think, or wish. However, that is not a rule.
2- if you decide to keep it, do a dilution test for the oil - a service / dealership and talk to a tech that is worth its weight in salt - should be able to do that for you quick. If you have a high dilution, there may be problems.
3 - if you keep it, change the oil every 5-6000 miles. Yes, is not a typo. Oil is cheap, engines are expensive
4 - "add blue" or urea - keep the tank ALLWAYS at full, or max. Top it up as much as you can.
5 - the DEF part is the one that will more than likely give you issues. Diesel engines are extremely good. Tree huggers have neutered them and killed them for no reason with urea... but that is another discussion for another time. Sensors in the tank and maybe exhaust may give up in 4-5 year ( then again, they may not)
For more details ... and I am not sure what model do you have, what is the engine ? 2 or 3 liters ?

Anyways, doing the math, with what you may lose on the trade, and what you will have to put down for a new car, you may come almost even with what you may have to pay for a catastrophic failure - the engine.
Personally, I would buy an extended warranty from JLR ( not a 3rd party through JLR ). I would highly recommend that BEFORE it gets out of warranty, . In my case it saved me a LOT of money on the 2016 Td6 RRS.
Hope this helps a bit.
Best of luck to you whatever you decide to do with the vehicle.

 

[doc5339]

Sell, Land Rovers like BMWs are best owned under-warranty and even then can be a PITA.

The best time to sell a vehicle is before it has problems not after it starts showing issues.

 

[BeemerNut]

Yikes any idea why that is terrifying ): Thank You for sharing though

Can you put a little light on what kind of failure your engine had and is this a known flaw or a freak thing like a blown hose or sudden loss of oil failure? It spun up to 5K rpm's and wasn't happy then having a "oil containment issue?" That would be rods sticking out the bottom of the oil pan like a NASCAR reply by a driver, best reply ever LOL!

The love hate relationship we had owning a LR 21 years dealing with LR North America (they are a POS to get work approved) along with Western General's 7/100K coverage I had a battle with on their coverage below.

Crappy old 3.9 engine a bored out old 3.5 LR engine installed in 94 to 95 first introduced Disco's into the US. My 95 had 11-13 second dry starts every morning rattling rods before oil perssure appeared. Stealership jacked around with it including their tiny factory oil filter replacing my larger filter including the oil bypass plunger and spring also shimming up the spring for increased oil pressure a "patch job" to get me out the door BS along with thicker wt. oil they installed. Lab checked ending up as 12/37 wt. oil, sample pulled 38 miles from installed.

Normal 2.5K oil changes doubled the rattling rods times including if sat 4-5 days finally ending up with Stealership removing the crank while engine block still in vehicle after the third time removing the transmission due to rear main seal leaking everytime including one time they pounded in the seal so hard the seal spring was shocked off the seal not doing its normal function then puking oil out right at startup.
Month five battle time being told the crank needs to be reground and warranty was not covering this bill plus all bearings needing replaced due to being worn down into the copper backing, no babbett left, crank was flopping around loose. The doctor had LR service only with tons of records oil changes every 2.8K to 3.0K miles.

Talked warranty company into a 4.6 factory shortblock I located (no 3.9 POS found in the US) saving them money, they instantly agreed. Aftermarket cam and roller timing chain mechanic now friend after several months doing battle he was the only mechanic assigned to this D1 who installed my parts. A new timing cover with pump assembly battle I won vs the old POS assembly as they would not put in writing coverage if it destroyed this new engine wich took a little attorney action to get done.

Shortly after installed and coverage expired I had in hand the parts and yanked out the 4.6. Had machined the block for "Top Hat" cylinder liners then installed the 4.9 stroker crank assembly after everything was checked and rebalanced before I assembled Ended up with one sweet smooth running engine with a chip ported heads, intake and exhaust manifolds also ported. Looks factory passing the smog visual test and tailpipe. High flow legal in Kalifornia Cats, Borla Cat back stainless exhaust the only things not factory passing smog tests actually "tool clean", a bigger cam yet someday.

Went from 16.4 to 19.2 mpg, what's not to like plus increased Hp & Tq. She's a keeper having fun stirring the 5 spd.
To this day 21 years later one strong bullet proof running engine.

Had both sun roof tracks replaced along with a complete "silent" transfer case assembly replacement before extended warranty expired as well anything the dealership can add needing replacement on the warranty company coverage costing them at the end $17,438 all said and done.

It took an attorney friends couple of letters to LR North America and the warranty company to see things my way after catching the 60K mile major service signed off and billed to the PO having several maintenance items not done like brake system flush, ******, transfer, both axles not drained and refilled as a noted request by PO but not done by a S.F. Stealership as the doctor was planning on keeping this vehicle at end of lease.
PO a doctor, his wife purchased a new Porsche same day thinking the LR was gone gone, nope it ended up being sold at 5/60K with a 7/100K coverage I used to the end.
T
he perfect combination of events plus being a rare in the US 5 spd Disco and the last year of OB1 a vehicle easy to modify and tune......~~=o&o>......

 

[BeemerNut]

@Bock - here are my 2 cents, for what its worth.
1- if you have an INGENIUM motor in it, which you probably do ( 2 turbos cascaded ) that may be problematic in long run. Is prone to overheating and may not last as long as you think, or wish. However, that is not a rule.
2- if you decide to keep it, do a dilution test for the oil - a service / dealership and talk to a tech that is worth its weight in salt - should be able to do that for you quick. If you have a high dilution, there may be problems.
3 - if you keep it, change the oil every 5-6000 miles. Yes, is not a typo. Oil is cheap, engines are expensive
4 - "add blue" or urea - keep the tank ALLWAYS at full, or max. Top it up as much as you can.
5 - the DEF part is the one that will more than likely give you issues. Diesel engines are extremely good. Tree huggers have neutered them and killed them for no reason with urea... but that is another discussion for another time. Sensors in the tank and maybe exhaust may give up in 4-5 year ( then again, they may not)
For more details ... and I am not sure what model do you have, what is the engine ? 2 or 3 liters ?

Anyways, doing the math, with what you may lose on the trade, and what you will have to put down for a new car, you may come almost even with what you may have to pay for a catastrophic failure - the engine.
Personally, I would buy an extended warranty from JLR ( not a 3rd party through JLR ). I would highly recommend that BEFORE it gets out of warranty, . In my case it saved me a LOT of money on the 2016 Td6 RRS.
Hope this helps a bit.
Best of luck to you whatever you decide to do with the vehicle.

Better yet send your oil to a lab like Blackstone to get it checked for coolant or combustion byproducts in your coolant.
Oil labs checking for different normal metals wearing off and if finding a spike increase in in any one type of metal this a sure warning sign before the big **** failure happens.

Trusting a Stealership to check your oil is flat foolish as they have skin in the game not into being free about repairing your vehicle vs an outside independant company having zero interest or money gain from results.

Blackstone even breaks down the basic components making up the composition of the oil used besides different metals that normally wear away ending up in the oil be it an increased amount of babbet, brass, moly or chrome from increased ring wear as example or an increase aluminum over past results as a standard to go by, this from accelerated piston wear for some reason before it turns into a too late damahge done problem.

Your engine and vehicle, do what you want.

Like LR requiring you to use their one brand only of coolant when a couple weeks later I see a different manufacture of coolant seen in 30 gallon barrels at a Stealership then asking about the switch. Told "a better purchase price buying coolant in bulk the reason". I had to ask, "what will be the flavor of the month next month?" The service writer friend gives me the bug laugh and smile. Was told "he can retire working at LR with their track record of issues and failures".......~~=o&o>......