Squeaking noise when driving.... help please

[jv3x3]

Car details: 2007 LR3, 21k miles

Issue: When driving (generally speeds between 30-80 MPH) my land rover will occasionally start letting out a persistent squeaking sound. Its most noticeable with the windows down and radio off (duh to the radio part). If it is squeaking and I apply the brake it will stop. It will not stop if I simply let off the accelerator and do not brake.

I tried doing what searching I could to find posts with similar problems and the most common thing I heard mention was the driveshaft needing to be replaced (and that I should do it now or I am risking my tranny... ouch trip this weekend planned ). But I could not be sure this was my problem, more associated with earlier models, or something different completely.

Anyone have any ideas what it is? Anything I can test or look for? Am I risking screwing something up worse by driving it?

Really bad timing as I am supposed to head out the family cabin this weekend for a get together (roughly 4 hour drive each way). So really appreciate all input here.

 

[Disco Mike]

As long as you have greased your drive shafts, they will be fine, the LR3 doesn't have a front drive shaft issue.
Check your belts and pullys for the squeak.

 

[umbertob]

Could be your wheel bearings (or bad wheel hubs on the front axle, fairly common issue with these vehicles after a number of years), in which case the squeak may soon start sounding more like a grinding/squealing noise as the bearings keep wearing down. Does it seem to generate from a specific area or corner of the car?

 

[stmcknig]

I guess the big question is does it only do it when in motion ? Could be a pad/caliper catching/rubbing on the disk(s) - anything looking hot at the wheels or smell of burning or scoring on the disks ?

 

[mark D]

If the squeaking stops when you apply the brakes, it might be your breaks. Many brakes have a piece of metal that rubs on the disc when the pads get too warn. Start where the noise is eliminated. If the squeaking stops when the breaks are applied look at the brake pads. If you bought cheap pads they can make a lot of noise even if you apply a latex based liquid squeak preventive. Try driving and lightly touch the brakes if the noise stops look at the pads.

 

[tlt]

21,000 is about the time I needed front brakes / rotors. I went with EBC, I got 80k out of those rotors. You will need to do some detective work to identify where the squeak is coming from.

 

[roverman]

Sounds like brakes to me since applying them quiets the noise. i had a partially frozen rear caliper that sometimes wouldn't release enough and that caused some squeaking.

Doubt it's the driveshaft, and if it's original it can't be greased, so don't worry about that. And there's no reason to think it's the belts and/or pulleys, since braking wouldn't stop the noise if it was. Does the pitch change with engine revs?

 

[zulu]

I think im with UMBERTOB.. I had a similar problem (if we are talking about the same type of squeak)...sparing you my ordeal of locating the sound, after I changed my wheel bearings and hub.. it disappeared..

 

[mark D]

Again I would go with process of elimination.
The hubs are farther in but in the same location. Check the brakes first, couldn't hurt to install a new set if they are warn down even half way. (cheap fix on the weekend)
Be sure to buy good brakes and apply the latex noise preventative on the back sides of the brake pads. Put it all back together and try it out. If the noise doesn't go away then at least you have new brake pads when you service the hubs.

The bearings should be repacked when you do a pad replacement because the grease gets hot from the pads riding on the rotor and the grease gets dirty and looses it viscosity ie. (it gets thin and runny).
So two birds with one brake and tire rotation as it were.
The hubs are just a back up on the jack stands and go farther in then you were before.

(Remember the brake fluid changes levels when you push the brake ***** piston back for the new pads, so best to crack the bleeder valve open and let the fluid drain out into a catch pan instead of pushing back on the system and over flowing the master cylinder). Best to flush the fluid when you are done so the old fluid is replaced Dot 4