Stock LR4 and 275 55 20s - the results!!

[jwest]

Jwest,
In your testing have you found that 32 inch tires absolutely require strut spacers to turn when fully stuffed in the event of an EAS failure?

My testing showed the strut spacer is NOT required for no air and 32" tire.

However, this is on an lr3 which means I am using an lr3 factory wheel 18x8" as well as the other standard mods such as flattening the rear fender liner bulges (absolutely necessary) and an ARB bumper which has a little more clearance than factory.

The frame "horns" behind front tires at bottom of arch also must be removed but I think they had to be removed for 31.5" already anyway.

The strut spacer is only required for next sizes up like 33-34. To be clear, just lowering to access is not the same as testing with no air.

Seeing as this is the lr4 section, the Compomotive is the wheel with the least added offset which is what you'd want because a wider offset is not your friend in this equation. I think those only add like 7mm which isn't too bad considering they then allow straight fit with no wheel spacers.

 

[jwest]

one other thing. Not all tires are actually the same size even if the printed numbers suggest it. My BFG at ko2 are noticeably smaller diameter compared to the Michelin LTX MS2 which are both taller diameter and wider at the widest section point yet narrower on the actual tread.

 

[gypsy]

one other thing. Not all tires are actually the same size even if the printed numbers suggest it. My BFG at ko2 are noticeably smaller diameter compared to the Michelin LTX MS2 which are both taller diameter and wider at the widest section point yet narrower on the actual tread.

You can check actual diameters and widths on manufacturers websites and spec sheets.

 

[TrinidadLR4]

My testing showed the strut spacer is NOT required for no air and 32" tire.

However, this is on an lr3 which means I am using an lr3 factory wheel 18x8" as well as the other standard mods such as flattening the rear fender liner bulges (absolutely necessary) and an ARB bumper which has a little more clearance than factory.

The frame "horns" behind front tires at bottom of arch also must be removed but I think they had to be removed for 31.5" already anyway.

The strut spacer is only required for next sizes up like 33-34. To be clear, just lowering to access is not the same as testing with no air.

Seeing as this is the lr4 section, the Compomotive is the wheel with the least added offset which is what you'd want because a wider offset is not your friend in this equation. I think those only add like 7mm which isn't too bad considering they then allow straight fit with no wheel spacers.

Thanks, this is good info. 275 55 20 comes out to 31.9 inches, as per your earlier question. Maybe I should remove the frame horns, as the clearance between these and the tire is rather tight.

 

[jwest]

You can check actual diameters and widths on manufacturers websites and spec sheets.

You're missing the point of my post which is that they do not always come out as exactly as you'd expect from the listed numbers.

The 2 in particular are WAY more than a .1" difference in diameter which on these very tight fittings people are attempting, can be the difference b/n working just barely or not working at all.

 

[jwest]

Thanks, this is good info. 275 55 20 comes out to 31.9 inches, as per your earlier question. Maybe I should remove the frame horns, as the clearance between these and the tire is rather tight.

If they only scuff the horns, I'd leave them but if they are grinding off your tire edge, then I'd remove them or reconsider tire size and/or wheel offset. This is also where a wider offset only makes the situation worse but tucking the wheels in can help a lot.

 

[TrinidadLR4]

It's barely scuffing. Nothing noticeable on the tire itself or sidewalls. I'll leave em be.

 

[jwest]

It's barely scuffing. Nothing noticeable on the tire itself or sidewalls. I'll leave em be.

Sounds good. You can also test it near the limits which would be when the suspension is fully extended and fully compressed with the turn angle near the tightest spot. The reason I mention this is that at the normal ride height, the wheel is its furthest position away from the engine. I don't recall if there is any front to rear shift during it's vertical path like there is more obviously in the rear suspension.

Now that I'm thinking about it, fully compressed should have the front wheels near their widest offset, normal height only a little less or similar, but extended is where they will really pull in. You can see this obviously when you change a tire and lift the body which allows the strut to extend. Then upon setting it on the ground it's tucked in and has to slide back out as the strut compresses back to normal length. It's quite a bit actually.

 

[Arman]

2015 LR4, Photos of a gap between front upper control arm and Yokohama G015 (275-55-R20) on LR058061 wheels (bolt - 5x120mm, diameter - 20", width - 5.8", offset - 53mm)
Gap is about 1/2", doesn't change much in different height modes

 

[Shaft1980]

2015 LR4, Photos of a gap between front upper control arm and Yokohama G015 (275-55-R20) on LR058061 wheels (bolt - 5x120mm, diameter - 20", width - 5.8", offset - 53mm)
Gap is about 1/2", doesn't change much in different height modes
View attachment 20594

Thanks for this, Reviving an old thread.
I also have a 2015 LR4 HSE Lux with 20" wheels exactly the same spec, I have mounted Nitto EXO Grapplers in 275/55/20 and they hit the front control arm. I am so upset! They should have fit but I don't understand how there can be a half inch difference between manufacturers.