Swing away rear tire prototype pics

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05lr3guy

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Hey Guys, here is a couple of pictures of the prototype that I have been working on. I should have it installed tomorrow then I will take it to the powder coater. My price for these will be $750.00 in raw metal $850.00 with black powder coat. I have not worked out the high lift jack mount but should know tomorrow if I can put it on this prototype. Let me know if there is any interest and I will make some up. I should be able to ship the first one with in the next 10 days from now. Thanks Paul
 
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nwoods

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I think you are going to need a latch on the inboard side to prevent vibration. Otherwise, looks promising!
 

05lr3guy

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I think you are going to need a latch on the inboard side to prevent vibration. Otherwise, looks promising!

The inboard latch is actually threaded into the mount that is attached to the bumper. It is crazy stiff, with the 2*3 tubing and 3/16 side walls. I wi
ll report on any vibration once i get it mounted
 

nwoods

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The inboard latch is actually threaded into the mount that is attached to the bumper. It is crazy stiff, with the 2*3 tubing and 3/16 side walls. I wi
ll report on any vibration once i get it mounted

Yeah, I see it in the photos. I just think you underestimate the force a 32" tire will put on it when driven over washboard roads. EVERYTHING shakes on washboard, and without a second anchor point, I think your tire carrier will oscillate to the point where it might hit the sheet metal of the hatch.

Also, I suggest a short mast for mounting a rear work light, and for a CB and/or HAM antenna. Sort of like this custom P38 bumper:

196443758_bXeqC-L-1.jpg
 

05lr3guy

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Yeah, I see it in the photos. I just think you underestimate the force a 32" tire will put on it when driven over washboard roads. EVERYTHING shakes on washboard, and without a second anchor point, I think your tire carrier will oscillate to the point where it might hit the sheet metal of the hatch.

Also, I suggest a short mast for mounting a rear work light, and for a CB and/or HAM antenna. Sort of like this custom P38 bumper:

You may very well be correct, I have really been thinking about it since you brought it up. I am designing a solution just in case it is a problem. Also that is a great idea for the work light.

As for the carrier swinging and hitting the rear gate sheet metal there is an internal stop in the hinge that prevents it from hitting the door or swinging out and hitting the side of the vehicle.
 

nwoods

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As for the carrier swinging and hitting the rear gate sheet metal there is an internal stop in the hinge that prevents it from hitting the door or swinging out and hitting the side of the vehicle.


Cool! but that is not quite what I meant. I have seen one tire carrier that had enough flex in it when vibrating under washboard like conditions that the tire rubbed against the hatch. I am confident that the limit stops in the normal open/close mechanism would have sufficient standoff distance. I'm only talking about vibration based flex.
 

MilehighLR3

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Cool! but that is not quite what I meant.

As a victim of washboard/tire carrier mishaps, I've actually seen what NWOODS is suggesting. My Jeep suffered a smashed rear light and big time corner damage when the deflection that occured exceeded the catch mechanism . . . . that said I did have a larger tire (more weight) mounted than the LR3 OE size.

BTW, my tire did not exceed the weight limit of the carrier . . . . . even with two contact points, the carrier moved enough (mostly front to back movement) to instigate an instant pooper pucker. It was funny afterwards and my buddies got a good laugh.:ahhhhh:

I think your design is nice and clean, I like it . . . . .you'll have to see how your prototype survives the vertical and lateral (pitch and yaw) deflection . . . . your greatest stress point with the current design is going to be where you mount it to the bumper (no big surprise) . . . . .your moment of enertia is going to occur high where the tire/wheel mounts (again, no big surpirse). . . . .it's gonna bounce, hard to predict how much because it's not very long/tall.

It's obvious in the pix that your hinge is robust (plenty of material, grade 8 hardware) . . . . you may want to consider a backing plate to help reinforce the stamped steel bumper.

Well done, let us know how the prototype turns out mounted and wheeled.
 

jesus_man

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Help me understand how it mounts to the bumper. Simply drill some holes and attach with hardware? As MileHigh suggested, is there a plate under the factory bumper to spread this load out.

I agree, it's a nice clean design and the price-point is reasonable. Nice work!

J.D.
 

nwoods

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In the second photo (on the grassy knoll), you can see a secondary washer plate that I presume to go on the inside of the steel bumper frame. I would suggest perhaps a rectangular plate that distributes load a little more on either side of the mounting point, but the idea is sound, and is similar to how the Rasta tire carrier is mounted I think.

To answer your other question, yes, you would just drill a hole in the snap in bumper cover tread plate. You can access the inside of the bumper frame from underneath, so you only need the top hole for the pivot hinge to go through.
 

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