Discussion in 'LR4' started by fishjump, Jan 29, 2019.
Yeah, I changed out (and sold) my stock tires.
The Bridgestone Dueler on mine seems to be lasting twice as long as the ones on my wife's little Audi Q5.
We're lucky to get more than 20K miles of city driving. Meanwhile, I'm impatiently waiting for mine to wear so I can "Upgrade".
Does anyone else feel cheated when they drop $1K+ on street tires with 65K mile warranty and they don't even last a 3rd of that?
The formulas that the tire shops use to calculate the warranty is a joke.
jwest's reply nailed it on (almost) every account about tyres. Solid axles, no worries with alignment problems. The 95 D1 had one alignment done at date of manufacture 11-94, presently at 142K original miles. Alignment still perfect. Michelin tyres five in rotation with only one problem, Michelin sidewalls starting to crack before the tread wears out. I "flip" tyres at app half tread depth on 255/65-16 vs stock 235/70-16. I buzz twisty mountain roads a lot. Heavier springs all around, lowered front 3/4", rear 1 1/4" with 230% and 190% stiffer anti-roll bars, poly bushing, street highway use only. On BMW's squatting burning inside treads, very common even factory stock. Installed camber correction eccentrics on the 87 325is now a supercharged 3.62 litre 745 donor engine with 5 spd drive line. ....~~=o&o>.....
19" or the tires that come stock on lr3/4 will not last 50k. I got so many miles out of the long wearing bfg ta ko and will know in a few yrs how the Michelin MS2 wear. Vehicle weight and driving style in town likely contribute to the equation.
[QUOTE="jwest Vehicle weight and driving style in town likely contribute to the equation.[/QUOTE]
Driving style in town especially women drivers, several men included that crank the steering wheel full left to full right while their vehicles are stationary. Same drivers ending up with worn out and clunking tie rod ends with tire wear problems at low vehicle mileage. Life time suspensions, ball joints and tie rods without zerks wearing out too soon another cause of lower tire mileage due to going out of alignment issues. Playing submarine with vehicles another example causing accelerated suspension joint and tie rod wear without zerk fittings to displace mud and water with fresh grease.
wouldn't that be nice
Yes it can be with a little effort working on the LR but worth it in my book.
My 95 D1 w/ 5 spd and 4.6 suspension is at 142,560 miles with original lifetime non greaseable ball and tie rod joints maintaining almost like new joint tightness and stiffness.
Only item I replaced was the rubber rear flex joint as I had vibration problems destroying that POS rubber flex joint with a driveshaft having a real steel U joint off a Range Rover. A Christmas sale item from Rover's North or Atlantic British????
I drilled, tapped and installed zerks on every joint on the D1 including the anti-roll bar link ends and A arm locating the rear diff.
Lifetime joints do not have a ground in grease groove in the ball allowing grease to pass by the seated ball passing to the rubber grease sacks.
Greaseable replacement joints have a grease groove ground into the ball.
I modified a four finger welders Vise Grips bending the fingers a little allowing the Vice Grips to compress tie rods and ball joints enough to unseat the ball allowing grease to pass by the ball refilling the rubber grease sacks.
Driveshaft U joints and slip splines lubed at every oil change around 34 to 3,500 miles. Engine holds 8 qts 11 ounces including the pre-oiler and 7" long Hastings PH426 oil filter which holds over a qt itself. Cleaned, inspected then repacked wheel bearings plus checked and corrected for steering ball pivot preload as well steering box. Installed Poly suspension bushings first month of ownership. Drag link or Pitman arm removed to properly adjust or preload the steering box.
The steering box, Rover purchased and had the rights to manufacture that POS Ford used for only 17 months until Ford production switched over to the Saginaw box. Way cheaper and common for several years. I know as my 68 F250 Pick Up of 69K original miles had one of those POS leaking boxes leaking before 50K miles. Twitchy at speed another bad feature plus seal kits became NLA and before at $153 each kit. A small step up from manual steering but a POS until I installed a Saginaw box in my Pick Up. BTW ordering steering box rebuild kit, starter (Nipon the best i've found) plus alternator brushes and small parts kits from England vs unit replacement only big $$$$ by LR dealerships in America. Spare distributor (95 last year having a dizzy a 7,800 mile donor) alternator and starter all stored in the back of the D1.
This is how I keep my LR running not dealing with expensive dealership repair bills besides all they work on is new to 5 years old, i'm a 95 D1, older than some of the mechanics, oops I mean "techs". ....~~=o&o>.....
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