Well I guess I've been spoilt by our Honda getting over 75k.
I'm just trying to gauge what to expect, or if there are other options out there. I know it's a heavy car, but 80% of my driving is highway.
Yo Fish. A few things can improve the mileage wear % dramatically and have worked quite well for me.
Rotation 4 vs all 5:
I like to rotate all 5 tires so that the spare is the same wear. This will ensure there are zero issues about size on an axle if I need to use it for 3000 miles on a trip.
Some people will say they only buy 4 new tires and use those just continually moving the spare along. Guess what, now 10 yrs along and it's not even the same tire anymore and is not in the best condition either sitting out never worn.
Not using all 5 also then you now will be required to buy new tires 20% sooner. Yes, if you can normally get 5 years and 50k, now you instantly get 6 yrs and 60k because the mileage is split over 5 vs 4. In 4 sets, you basically have a free set because somewhere in there you bought a 5th new spare even if you never use it LOL.
Lastly about rotation, you should be aware that there is a fairly small % difference in rolling diameter that is ideally allowed on the lr3, and on many cars for that matter. On a sport tire with shallow depth it may not seem like much but on ours with rather deep treads, you could easily end up with a new depth spare on the ground opposite a 50% worn tire and running like that for long is not good at all for the differential, unless maybe you drove in a large circle toward the old tire side
Tire "flipping" which not many people think of, and it would be relatively pointless on a solid axle Land Rover like the Disco 2 but on the independent suspension rovers, the camber wears the heck out of the inner edge. I flipped my bfg at ko 1 only 1 time and got 75,000 miles and still sold them with 1/4-3/8" depth because I went up in tire size. Flipping them makes a HUGE difference on these suspensions that wear the tire unevenly.
Flipping of course is best only on symmetric treads non-directional treads but it can of course also work fine on symmetric directional tires.
This would work well on other high camber cars too like an Audi or BMW where the rear will wear the inside edge to almost cords while the middle to outer edge still looks like 40%.
You can also pay attention to the "tread wear rating" which is easy to find on sites like Tirerack. Note that some companies will often warranty for mileage rating but not on certain sizes within the same tire model. Probably because if a big ass truck is loaded heavy it'll wear more than the same tire on a basic suv.