Tres Amigos

[Disco Squared]

Last weekend I was working the ETC pretty ******* my DII during an off-road adventure. I got the 3-amigos after a difficult hill climb. I tried cycling the ignition switch a few of times, but it seemed to be a hard ABS system failure, the lights have stayed on solid since.
So far I have checked the basics (fluid level, connectors and fuses). I've also checked the resistance of all the wheel sensors and they all read about 1000 ohms from the SLABS connector. There is no Land Rover test book within 150 miles from where I live, but there is a local mechanic that said he could probably pull the codes with his universal test book using a "back door" method. Has anyone ever had success using this method before?
Also, is there anything else I can check out before taking it to a LR mechanic?
Would it be worth it to buy the ABS modulator shuttle valve repair kit first to see if it fixes the problem since the sensors seem OK?
Any shared experiences or advice is greatly appreciated.

 

[joey]

As far as I know, the only way to read the ABS codes on a Land Rover is to use Testbook or Similar computer.

Changing the shuttle Valve IIRC will require the Testbook or similar to bleed the ABS system.

 

[Chongo]

Tres Amigos

Last weekend I was working the ETC pretty ******* my DII during an off-road adventure. I got the 3-amigos after a difficult hill climb. I tried cycling the ignition switch a few of times, but it seemed to be a hard ABS system failure, the lights have stayed on solid since.
So far I have checked the basics (fluid level, connectors and fuses). I've also checked the resistance of all the wheel sensors and they all read about 1000 ohms from the SLABS connector. There is no Land Rover test book within 150 miles from where I live, but there is a local mechanic that said he could probably pull the codes with his universal test book using a "back door" method. Has anyone ever had success using this method before?
Also, is there anything else I can check out before taking it to a LR mechanic?
Would it be worth it to buy the ABS modulator shuttle valve repair kit first to see if it fixes the problem since the sensors seem OK?
Any shared experiences or advice is greatly appreciated.
__________________
O.B.
2001 Discovery II
1999 Discovery I
1982 109" Series III (sold in 1998)


Hello Disco squared, I have an old post here if it helps you, I did my wife’s 04 disco and this bleeding procedure is the way to go if you don’t want to buy a Test book……….. Chongo




http://www.landroverworld.org/forums/showthread.php?t=11808

 

[Disco Squared]

Thanks for the replies Joey and Chongo. I think I'll go ahead and try the shuttle valve repair kit and then bleed the system to see if it fixes the problem. I would spend more money on gas driving to the nearest stealership than the cost of the repair kit. the price of gas!

Chongo, is this the procedure you're talking about?
I did use my Snap-on pressure bleeder. I’ve misplaced my notes for which wires to energize, but it is quite simple. Take an ohm meter, and test the wires and find the one with no resistance, this is the internal ground, don’t hook up power to it the rest are either shuttle valves or the motor which all need to be energized. I used the 12 v battery to run the pump motor and one 9volt battery to cycle the shuttle valves, and not one glitch after, but you do need to disconnect the positive cable to the battery first.

If so, I assume you ground the negative side of the 9v battery to the modulator case(?). Then actuate each valve as the return pump motor is running(?)
Thanks again

 

[Chongo]

Thanks for the replies Joey and Chongo. I think I'll go ahead and try the shuttle valve repair kit and then bleed the system to see if it fixes the problem. I would spend more money on gas driving to the nearest stealership than the cost of the repair kit. the price of gas!

Chongo, is this the procedure you're talking about?
I did use my Snap-on pressure bleeder. I’ve misplaced my notes for which wires to energize, but it is quite simple. Take an ohm meter, and test the wires and find the one with no resistance, this is the internal ground, don’t hook up power to it the rest are either shuttle valves or the motor which all need to be energized. I used the 12 v battery to run the pump motor and one 9volt battery to cycle the shuttle valves, and not one glitch after, but you do need to disconnect the positive cable to the battery first.

If so, I assume you ground the negative side of the 9v battery to the modulator case(?). Then actuate each valve as the return pump motor is running(?)
Thanks again
__________________
O.B.
2001 Discovery II
1999 Discovery I
1982 109" Series III (sold in 1998)


Disco Squared, As far as your first question goes you’re completely right, but one of the pins in the connector is need to be grounded as well. All the test book does is tell the processor to energize this unit and cycle it’s shuttle valves, that’s all it can do. You can do this manually as well, be sure to disconnect the neg. post of the battery and disonnect the termial at the ABS unit. The shuttle valves will cycle with the 9 volt battery, or at least my wife’s 04 Disco did. Then I used the 12 volt vehicle battery to cycle the electric motor inside the unit, the 9 volt isn’t enough current to run the motor. I actually went to a wrecking yard and cut off the terminal connector to the ABS unit so I could splice into the unit much easier. This works just as good as the test book. You really don’t even need the pressure bleeder if you energize the motor, ( but this runs the motor less, and I feel it is safer for the life of the motor only, the motor isn’t engineered as a continuous duty motor), just keep the master cylinder full while the motor runs in short running times while cycling the shuttle valves, and this motor pumps a lot of volume quickly, making it necessary to have someone attend the reservoir, and not let it get empty. Don’t run the motor very long at all, it will eventually heat up. This system actually bleeds itself, all you have to do is either have someone energize the system while you bleed each wheel cyl. Or wire it up like I did with a remote toggle so I could activate it at each cylinder…


Either way you sound like you know what you’re doing
Any questions, let me know…. Chongo

 

[2000DiscoveryII]

I am having the same problem. How do you get the lights to go off? I mean if you complete the procedure will they go off automatically?