Wheel Bearing??

[Dave Legacy]

LR recommends 75k for the rear diff fluid. I'm not sure about the front; I had it done on my own after reading about all the failures and such.

Tire rubbing? Are you on stock sized rubber?

285/60/18 Nitto Terra Grapplers @ Normal Ride Height.

 

[kingfishgrapeja]

What's involved when replacing a wheel bearing on a LR3? Anything unusual or out of the ordinary? Something one could do at home with basic tools & knowledge? I apologize about all the questions, but I'm hungry for information.

Yes, It seems straight forward. You may want to check out a subscription to alldatadiy.com.

 

[kingfishgrapeja]

My suspected groan is all at low speed, around 15-30mph, and seems to be more present when driving up steep hills. I'm not convinced a normal person would even notice and I'm not 100% I'm not just hearing a normal noise. What concerns me more is the occasional "shuddering" from the rear that reminds me of two things:

1. Tire rubbing
2. Locked up lImited-slip differential in slow turns

Seems like there is a few places around town that I can predict it will occur, can see rub marks on my rear fender liner where one would expect to see them, but I'm not convinced. I'm out of warranty so there's really nothing to do but wait and see what happens. I'm thinking that I'll replace my diff fluids just to see what they look like and freshen up. I'm sure not gonna wait for the 100K or whatever that LR has decided.

If you have a locker, there was a tsb on the software for the locker motor. Your groan could be something as simple at tires. You could try rotating them and see if the sound moves.

 

[kingfishgrapeja]

I would not trust a aftermarket part that costs a almost 50% less than original, especially , such a vital part as wheel bearing. I understand a need for cheaper less important items such as interior clips, but hub assembly?NO.
I am also a" good deal searcher " , but when i found out , that one of the LR aftermarket parts companies(BRITPART) is giving away their contracts to the cheapest bidder in CHINA, I came to the conclusion, that some things are more important in life, that just finding a good deal, no matter what,and some parts are meant to be a genuine components and I am a strong advocate of buying them, when one fails .You don,t want to ride in 3 ton lr3 on aftermarket bearings or lug nuts. My 0.2 cents
i am also experiencing a groaning noise, but usually , when taking foot of the gas pedal and slight vibration, when accelerating, I can hear it on the highway, but identifying noises in LR3 is always hard and takes time and knowledge and even if you have THAT it could still be a mystery , that one have to live with for a longer , then usual , period of time, until annoying noise is more pronounced.Even with bearings , is hit or miss, at the beginning stages of failure...

I understand the sentiment but I won't lose any sleep over it. I'm interested to see what type of bearing they put in there. OEM bearings come from all over anyway.

 

[Dave Legacy]

If you have a locker, there was a tsb on the software for the locker motor. Your groan could be something as simple at tires. You could try rotating them and see if the sound moves.

I think you might be on to something with the software update and locking motor. It only seems to happen on very light left-hand curves that are ever so slightly off-cambered where it kinda transfers the weight. If I release the gas it will in turn release the lock and is exactly how I'd expect an e-locker to behave. I have a 60K coming up towards the 4th Quarter of this year so I might just wait until then to have the system flashed. Thanks for pointing out the TSB... I'll look into it a little more. I wonder if it's the same one that involves low speed downshifting?

The tires are starting to make a little noise and will be rotated this weekend. I was thinking I'd rotate every 5-6K, but might go a little more frequent depending how they wear.

 

[Houm_WA]

@kingfish: Do you know the number of the TSB?

 

[thorgal]

TSB on the rear motor E locker is : LTB 00200.Date issued 02 FEB.2009.

I just had it performed in my local dealership.But, you suppose to have a DTC P186D stored in rear differential control module.I was able to read the codes with my Faultmate, so i sort of knew , it was one of my problems.It popped out twice along with other usual suspects, such as suspension lowered, abs light on, ETC.., but after reading codes , this one particular was the only one tested .I also knew I had a problem with a rear diff. motor-actuator.It started to squiiiiiik at every start up as well as shot off.Since I had to change a failing motor along with a recalibrating it, this patch came with a new software calibration anyway.

 

[kingfishgrapeja]

I'll look into it a little more. I wonder if it's the same one that involves low speed downshifting?

r.

Nope it is a separate update...couldn't have made it that easy.

 

[kingfishgrapeja]

Bearing came today looked and felt perfect for what that is worth. Old bearing did have lateral play and had quite a bit of drag and rough spots compared to the new one. Here is a quick write up while it is somewhat fresh in my memory. LR calls for special tools for the r/r I didn't have or use them.

Front Wheel Bearing....

Jack and support affected corner (remember to leave a door open to deactivate Air Suspension)

Remove Wheel

Remove Caliper and suport with extra jack stand..don't let it hang by the brake line. 2 13mm bolts. Use a thin wrench to keep brake slide pins from spinning (I used small robogrips)

Remove Caliper Bracket. 2 21mm bolts...you'll need a breaker bar.

Remove rotor. T50 torx

Remove axle nut. I use a 1 1/4 socket on an impact gun. Not sure of the metric size.

Remove Bearing to spindle bolts 4 15mm bolts on backside of spindle.

Place large gear puller over hub with tip on the axle. Push axle through the back of the hub by tightening gear puller.

I used a slide hammer with hub attachment to then pull the bear/hub assembly out of its seat. After the fourth pull the slide hammer stripped out of the attachement. Good ole harbor freight. But I had enough separation to finish it off with an air chisel.

The bearing/hub should come be free now. You may need to run the gear puller again if it is still attached to the CV.

Mounting is the reverse. The axle nut should be replaced with new. I tightened (HAND TOOL NO IMPACT FOR THIS) it with the opposite wheel on the ground and then used the air chisel to crush the should into the groove which locks the nut.

This guide is just to gauge difficulty, there are specific torques that should be followed for each fastener. I did not list them because I didn't have them handy as I may or may not have bothered to look them up.

Slide hammer and gear puller are available at Harbor Freight for less than $30. While my slide hammer did fail, I have used/misused it plenty over the past 5 years or so I hold no grudges.

 

[franklin]

I had classic wheel bearing symptoms/noises and wound up with a new front diff. Hopefully, your issue is the wheel bearing.