Where's the leak?

[GSMblue]

Progress

 

[BearishDriver]

very little progress tbh, the fault persists I will take it to the stealership whenever I have time even tho I my hopes are low, mexican mechanics are mediocre and ignorant as you cannot imagine.

It has got better tho, the compressor vents on a "random" basis, if there were no faults while driving then it vents after turning it off, if the fault presented then it does not vent and the only way of fixing it is by turning it on with the door open.
edit: it DID NOT vent after turning it off before my intervention, so my 2 hours under it on sunday did help a bit

 

[cmb6s]

The other thing that I would check is your reservoir valve block and pressure sensor as well as the wiring going to it. This valve block has to function correctly in order to vent pressure from the reservoir back to the exhaust valve in the compressor. The reservoir valve block is located just in front of the compressor itself.

 

[BearishDriver]

that valve is the one that was hanging loose instead of properly secured on its place, so it may be that when I was arranging it into place I "fixed" one of the cables but not all.

I also suspect it has something to do with the software, so I will visit the dealer and ask them to reflash it with the official one, hopefully I will have time for that next week.

 

[Trynian]

I have been reading this thread tonight. I want to clear up one thing though, the exhaust will happen even with the door open. It has always done so on my 2006. That is just the main gallery pressure release when the compressor stops pumping. With the door open it will only hinder any raising or lowering.

In normal circumstances for instance if you raised the Vehicle to off-road and after the height is reached the compressor is running for a time to refill the tank you can still open the door and the compressor will continue to run and then exhaust when it is done.

Now only exhausting when the door is open is odd and suggest software to me.

Another test beside pulling fuses is to let it all get aired up, turn it off and disconnect the the front fuse block (remove the connector). If it still leaks and drops then you can repeat the procedure but disconnect the front main line at the compressor valve block and put the air line in a bucket of water to see if you get any leak bubbles.

No bubbles would isolate any leak to be between the front struts and the valve block. Bubbles would mean the valve block is still leaking.

It is important to disconnect the valve block to be sure it is not getting any signals from the suspension computer.

 

[BearishDriver]

Thank you Trynian! The car is quite driveable now and I've been extremely busy so I did not check the forum until today. Still faults eventually tho, so let me explain:

In normal circumstances for instance if you raised the Vehicle to off-road and after the height is reached the compressor is running for a time to refill the tank you can still open the door and the compressor will continue to run and then exhaust when it is done.

If no fault comes on, my LR3 currently does this, as it should.

Now only exhausting when the door is open is odd and suggest software to me.

It does exhaust with the door closed but if the fault appears, the only way of clearing it is to turn it on with the door open, that way the compressor starts running again for a few seconds, I can listen to it venting the air and everything appears normal.
Fault may repeat within minutes (or hours I cannot guess) of driving or not appear for a while. It always appears if I try getting into access mode.

turn it off and disconnect the the front fuse block (remove the connector). If it still leaks and drops then you can repeat the procedure but disconnect the front main line at the compressor valve block and put the air line in a bucket of water to see if you get any leak bubbles.

You mean the green air line, right? this sounds doable over the weekend, I may give it a try. : )

cheers!

 

[Trynian]

You mean the green air line, right? this sounds doable over the weekend, I may give it a try.

Which ever line runs from the front valve block to the compressor valve black, I think I recall it is black. The green line goes from the shock to the front valve block. If you disconnect that one the front shock will deflate.

 

[BearishDriver]

Found out that someone changed the fuseable link FL10 which is supposed to be a 60 amp for a 50 amp.

Was this supposed to be done? I understand that only the relay was to be changed when "upgrading" to the AMK

Should I get a 60 amp again or is the 50 amp the one supposed to be there? Thanks!!

 

[thorgal]

Found out that someone changed the fuseable link FL10 which is supposed to be a 60 amp for a 50 amp.

Was this supposed to be done? I understand that only the relay was to be changed when "upgrading" to the AMK

Should I get a 60 amp again or is the 50 amp the one supposed to be there? Thanks!!

This fuse should be 70 Amp.

 

[BearishDriver]

what? that's odd perhaps specs change depending on the country?? mine clearly says 60 amp

or are you saying it should be switched for a 70 amp after the AMK change?