DIY Oil Change for LR4

[brettmess24]

Mahle does make a filter and it is very similar to the land rover one. Come to think of it those are the only two filter options I have seen. *check that looks like wix,fram and Hastings? Makes a filter for the LR4*

I love the ease of oil change on the LR4, light years better than the LR3! Love not make a mess of oil and laying on the ground to reinstall the heavy skid plates.

Way to go land rover! Only downside is that the oil is expensive.

 

[94speedster]

94speedster: You listed the oil filter as W0133-1891127. Doing an online search for some oil filters, the part number I get is a W0133-1891867 (Mahle) Is this the same filter?

I am not certain, but it appears that Mahle makes the filter for LR/Jag. For me, the cost of the "Jag-branded" filter is worth the expense. I just didn't like getting robbed at the Rover dealer!

Regarding resetting the oil change light, this needs to be done with a special tool. From what I can tell, the Rover world has a few after-market tools- but they are expensive.

Regarding a manual look at the oil, I do not think that is possible. I rely on the trip computer to get my readings. So far so good.

BTW guys - I spoke with the head wrench at the local LR dealer. Great guy. He recommended that "extreme environments" (such as Utah) change their Rover oil at 7500k miles.

-B

 

[B.A Rafea]

To 94speedster,

Thank you so much for the wonderful DIY. Followed the steps and worked well. I was lucky the dealer had quarts of Castrol SFX and was willing to sell them to me, Land rover, jaguar, porsch and audi are all under one dealership in Nova Scotia!

Thanks again.

 

[Izzyandsue]

Regarding the Castrol oil, I just got the workshop manual from the UK, and I can't find a single reference to Castrol SLX in its 7400 pages. All I can find is:

"SAE 5W-20 meeting specification WSS-M2C925-A only"

and below that "Land Rover recommends Castrol"

So all we really need is 5W20 meeting the spec, like Mobil 1? There are instructions in the manual for doing oil change by gravity or by vac as well, no indication as to either one being preferred.

 

[umbertob]

Castrol SLX has been discontinued and replaced with Edge Professional, same viscosity and similarly hard to source here in the States. Mobil 1 5W20 will do as an acceptable and reasonably priced substitute if you are unable to source that Castrol synt blend (Edge with Titanium comes closest in formulation, but is not quite the same as Professional.)

 

[Izzyandsue]

Thanks Umberto. There's no requirement for any Castrol on my owners manual or on the workshop manual. Mobil 1 is easy to find and meets the spec according to their site. I have the M1 that I use for other racing applications, will stick to it and do 7500 mile changes

 

[umbertob]

My 2013 manual does mention EDGE Professional is recommended but. like I said. unless you are willing to buy it by the 55-gal drum from your LR or Jag dealer. good luck finding that viscosity in stores. My local Costco carries Mobil 1 5W20. yay!

 

[Quijote]

My 2013 manual does mention EDGE Professional is recommended but. like I said. unless you are willing to buy it by the 55-gal drum from your LR or Jag dealer. good luck finding that viscosity in stores. My local Costco carries Mobil 1 5W20. yay!

Who in the Boston area wants to chip in and buy the drum?

 

[Izzyandsue]

Umberto, quick question on viscocity. My understanding from the data sheets on Castrol and M1, the viscosity only seems to change at low (winter like) temps, with Castrol measuring almost twice the cP (Brookfield measurement). But at operating temp, M1 is just slightly lower than Castrol, less than 8%. Is there more I should be looking at? I can follow most Rheology calcs if you have other insight.
I do use Edge Pro for my E-46 M3 engine in summer season, is the only one high enough. But not in winter racing.

Forgot to add this link to Mobil 1 user guide, manufacturer site

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/Vehicle_Chooser/VehicleChooser.aspx?option=2

 

[Izzyandsue]

I did this today, easiest oil and filter change I have done in my entire life. If only there was an easy way to reset the service indicator... I have a couple of additions, based on the shop manual I bought

1. Before sucking the oil out, must be for either draining the oil filter canister faster. I followed this instruction too:

• Loosen the element cover 4 complete turns to allow engine oil to drain from the filter cover.
• Make sure that the O-ring seal is exposed.

2. To read oil level quickly after filling it with the 8 liters:

• Start the engine and allow to run for 10 minutes, stop the engine.
• Check for leaks.
• Turn the ignition on.
• Press the right-hand directional button to access the instrument cluster menu. Select Service Menu
• Press the right-hand OK button.
• Press the right-hand directional button to access the Oil Level Display.
• Press the right-hand OK button and follow the instructions. Screen will show Not Available.
• Press the cruise control cancel button twice within 2 seconds.
• The message center display will revert to the normal display in the trip computer. Now it will display oil level.
• Press the right-hand OK button and follow the instructions.
• Check that the oil level display shows an oil level reading.
• Only after having started and run the engine for 10 minutes (as indicated in prior Step) , switch off the engine, then stabilizing for 10 minutes, take a reading from the oil level display and, if necessary top up with engine oil.

This shortcut allows faster read of the oil level. Thank you all again for this DIY.