For the record: any modification to the height sensor arms or software is only a potentiometer alteration. In order to reduce full compression dims would be to add a bump stop so the wheel cannot compress into the well as far.
That said....
I ran the MTR's and loved them. Very tough looking and grippy. However, even with the 1" software lift, the car can still go into the same full measure of wheel compression into the wheel well, so they still rubbed. They simply rubbed sooner than a smaller tire.
Point is, when you go into full compression one hopes you are crawling at a snail's pace through a rock crawl or similar. If you are racing through dips and bumps [also causing full compression] then no matter what tire you're running, your screwing up your rig.
In the very last hours before heading to CO for the GDIII, I opted to put the AT's back on, simply for fuel economy and ride quality and balance of tarmac-wheelin performance. I would wheel them and still have them for this purpose. I simply found that where the MTR's would prevail, those situations would be relatively few compared to the numerous situations where the AT's would take me through with similar confidence.
At the end of the day, you can do either. Just decide before-hand what your purpose is and what you're willing to give up to have it.
BTW: took my rig in for its last service prior to hitting 50k miles and included the replacement of the front tie rods [which includes an alignment], and the dealer [LRMission Viejo] did NOT reset my suspension height. I seem to see somewhere that dealers were checking this/making it part of their protocol. Just wanted to say that I appreciated them leaving it alone.
