Mike, how many miles on your friend's LR3? I'm closing in on the entire front end rebuild (hubs, LCAs, stabilizer bar bushings, etc.) and wonder if I should add the air struts to the list while everything is taken apart.
Paul, i cannot think of any good reason to not also replace the UCA/bushings while getting into all that. It's not s hard really. I found the upper front to be the least tight bolts but obviously a bit tricky to access.
For the front bolt which is hidden from view, behind the strut tower top, I used a socket with extension for the front first set in by hand, then clicked in the ratchet head with other hand. (I was using a flex head ratchet but I don't know if that was required) While holding the front one in place, and having already test fit a box wrench for the rear, set the rear with other hand such that you can use it at first to loosen the nut a little. Then you can start ratcheting off the front. (I don't think a low profile right angle air tool would fit in the front)
Pretty sure I had a 1/2" drive up front probably.
These 8 control arms are often not hard to 'do' as much as they are hard to access if you don't have the right shaped tools. For example, I used the following box wrenches:
Snap-On high performance 0 degree - long for leverage, super low profile access, offset notches on radius allow flipping wrench for partial turns in super tight spots. The leverage is the best too though. Longest I've seen from any brand.
Proto USA standard offset about 15 degree and also very nice long length
MAC deep offset
Snap-On 10 degree
Cornwell combination basic 5 degree
Proto standard length and stubby ratcheting combi wrenches. Man I love those!!! $$$ but worth every penny having had asian brand until last summer. No comparison on so many levels.
Sockets stubby, std and deep, 1/4 - 3/8 and 1/2
For example, the upper strut tower is super easy if you have the above mentioned ratcheting box and also for one of the 3 nuts, a short 13mm 1/4 drive socket on a long flex head ratchet.
Keep in mind for any intensely tight nut/bolt, ratchets are not for breaking it, use a box wrench first or at least 1 size up from standard if it can fit. For example, a crazy tight/rusted rear LCA bolt wouldn't budge with an XL 3/8 ratchet which can shear the drive anvil. Use a box wrench with pipe over it for leverage and take time letting PB Blaster work in over hours first if necessary ( I broke a 3/8 ratchet anvil and had to rebuild it with new parts)
A dealer quoted me $12,000 to do the job I did myself last summer..... that can justify a ton of tools you've always wanted anyway
