LR4 vs LR3 Air Suspension Struts

Discussion in 'LR4' started by Pfunk951, Apr 3, 2018.

  1. Pfunk951

    Pfunk951 Full Access Member

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    Quick question:

    I am about to change the Struts on a friend's LR3 (they are leaking).. I know that the LR3 struts have a different part number than ours, but from the outside they appear to be identical to the LR4 strut.

    Could that different part number just mean updated seals and such on the LR4, but essentially the same strut?

    Thanks in advance,

    Mike
     
  2. jwest

    jwest Full Access Member

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    I don’t think there are any dimensional differences. I put in the Billstein 4600 series up from last summer. Before you install, you should consider the upper and lower rubber boots. They are genuine parts but apparently don’t automatically come on our vehicles.
     
  3. jwest

    jwest Full Access Member

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    CC253C83-984A-4401-ADAE-CA94241C3CB7.jpeg 36656912-3183-48CB-AE55-D9244261C492.jpeg
     
  4. PaulLR3

    PaulLR3 Full Access Member

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    Mike, how many miles on your friend's LR3? I'm closing in on the entire front end rebuild (hubs, LCAs, stabilizer bar bushings, etc.) and wonder if I should add the air struts to the list while everything is taken apart.
     
  5. Pfunk951

    Pfunk951 Full Access Member

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    JWest-Very nice! Those control arms look pretty new.. Let me guess: Bushings?!

    Paul- 140k.. I'm going to bite the bullet and see if they will work.. I can't see why not unless there is a significant internal change, which I can't seem to pin down..

    Mike
     
  6. samnt650

    samnt650 Full Access Member

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    jwest - where did you get the Bilstein struts? were they coming as complete set or you assembled the air spring and struct together?
     
  7. bbyer

    bbyer Full Access Member

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    From what I understand, the LR4 struts have a different "spring rate" from the LR3. I think that means softer, but that is subjective. The bottom line is that yes, there is a design difference even if there is no physical difference.

    This was an issue in Australia when the D4 first appeared - blokes who had replaced their 3's for the new 4's, were complaining about the ride - that they could not fly over corrugated trails as they had in the past. Some of them were taking the new 4 air struts out and replacing it with older 3 stuts. As to if LR subsequently made changes to the D4 suspension, I do not know.
     
  8. jwest

    jwest Full Access Member

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    whole unit from Ebay, amazon, Rovers North etc easy to find but just be sure you have part number verified from the Bilstein website
     
  9. jwest

    jwest Full Access Member

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    Paul, i cannot think of any good reason to not also replace the UCA/bushings while getting into all that. It's not s hard really. I found the upper front to be the least tight bolts but obviously a bit tricky to access.

    For the front bolt which is hidden from view, behind the strut tower top, I used a socket with extension for the front first set in by hand, then clicked in the ratchet head with other hand. (I was using a flex head ratchet but I don't know if that was required) While holding the front one in place, and having already test fit a box wrench for the rear, set the rear with other hand such that you can use it at first to loosen the nut a little. Then you can start ratcheting off the front. (I don't think a low profile right angle air tool would fit in the front)

    Pretty sure I had a 1/2" drive up front probably.

    These 8 control arms are often not hard to 'do' as much as they are hard to access if you don't have the right shaped tools. For example, I used the following box wrenches:

    Snap-On high performance 0 degree - long for leverage, super low profile access, offset notches on radius allow flipping wrench for partial turns in super tight spots. The leverage is the best too though. Longest I've seen from any brand.

    Proto USA standard offset about 15 degree and also very nice long length

    MAC deep offset

    Snap-On 10 degree

    Cornwell combination basic 5 degree

    Proto standard length and stubby ratcheting combi wrenches. Man I love those!!! $$$ but worth every penny having had asian brand until last summer. No comparison on so many levels.

    Sockets stubby, std and deep, 1/4 - 3/8 and 1/2

    For example, the upper strut tower is super easy if you have the above mentioned ratcheting box and also for one of the 3 nuts, a short 13mm 1/4 drive socket on a long flex head ratchet.

    Keep in mind for any intensely tight nut/bolt, ratchets are not for breaking it, use a box wrench first or at least 1 size up from standard if it can fit. For example, a crazy tight/rusted rear LCA bolt wouldn't budge with an XL 3/8 ratchet which can shear the drive anvil. Use a box wrench with pipe over it for leverage and take time letting PB Blaster work in over hours first if necessary ( I broke a 3/8 ratchet anvil and had to rebuild it with new parts)

    A dealer quoted me $12,000 to do the job I did myself last summer..... that can justify a ton of tools you've always wanted anyway ;)
     
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  10. jackkyxu

    jackkyxu Full Access Member

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    jwest, i have a question related to Bilstein strut for LR4

    Bilstein has AIR SUSPENSION STRUT sold as assembly module, but only for front


    what about the rear one?
    I know there is OEM AIR SUSPENSION STRUT sold as assembly module for rear
    but Bilstein just has shock only for rear

    I do see Air Spring For Electronic Air Suspension (EAS): Rear For LR3, LR4 And Range Rover Sport sold online.

    Can I buy this air spring and rear shocks only to substitude the assembly module?


    thanks
     

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