Lube Guard Instant Shudder fix - works….RPM fluctuation and trans shudder gone

[KarlHungus]

Based on what I've read on the fill procedure when doing a trans service. You can only fill so much on a cold transmission. To fully fill it when doing the service you must run the vehicle until it hits a specific warm temp, then you can add the remaining fluid until you get a drip per second or something like that. I'm sure those who have done the service themselves can tell you in more detail. I'll get to experience it this winter when I do mine.

You are totally correct and i just found out the hard way! Lost a few quarts when cold and jacked up on passenger side. Now I have to decide if I should just top off with Lube Guard and ATF or if I should just do the entire fluid exchange service!

 

[BBLR3]

Ah that sucks! At this point, I think I just do the service. Gone to far to much!

 

[Land Rover Joe]

Ah that sucks! At this point, I think I just do the service. Gone to far to much!

Do the service.........

 

[KarlHungus]

Wound up just adding Lube Gard with Valvoline MaxLife Multi-Vehicle ATF. Original ATF fill is not ZF (looks pink/red) and was not burnt. The transmission has just over 20,000-miles on it and about 4-years old though it might be rebuilt L322 take-off from the records I have.

Drove relatively well yesterday. Will try the top-off procedures from ZF again today and plan on a full ZF fluid exchange in another 10,000 to 20,000-miles. If the shudder (which was not terrible) comes back, will consider and earlier transmission service or replacing the Torque Converter.

Local (reputable) ZF Transmission Service place charges around $1,000.00 for Transmission Service. Thinking it would cost me just over $300.00 for Transmission Fluid Exchange though I would only be replacing 50% of the ATF unless I do a follow-up.

What do you guys think about the "professional" 95% Transmission Service vs. garage fluid exchange with ZF Lifeguard 6?

I was surprise the Land Rover shop that did the Transmission Replacement did not use ZF Lifeguard 6, though I think they used some BG Conditioner maybe even BG ATF.

Have been wondering if maybe the transmission was just overfilled and that was the cause of the shuddering? I guess I will find out when I try this last ZF top-off procedure. I drained 3.75-quarts from the fill port initially and following the procedure was only able to get about 1-quart into the trans. The top-off procedure I will attempt today is more of a double-check of yesterday's work.

This is the procedure I followed:

1. Preparation:

• Temperature: The transmission fluid must be within a specific temperature range (typically 30-50°C or 86-122°F) for accurate fluid level measurement. Use a scan tool or other method to monitor temperature.
  
  
• Level Surface: Ensure the vehicle is parked on a level surface.
  
  
• Safety: Engage the parking brake and apply the regular brake while filling.
  

2. Fluid Filling:

• Locate Fill Plug:
  Find the fill plug on the transmission housing, often on the driver's side, rear, or top.
  
  
• Remove Fill Plug:
  Remove the fill plug using the appropriate tool (e.g., 8mm hex bit or 17mm Allen key).
  
  
• Initial Fill (Engine Off):
  With the engine off and transmission in Park, add fluid until it starts to overflow from the fill hole.
  
  
• Install Fill Plug (Hand Tight):
  Reinstall the fill plug temporarily.
  

3. Gear Cycling and Final Fill:

• Start Engine:
  Start the engine and let it idle.
  
  
• Cycle Gears:
  Shift through all gear positions (Park, Reverse, Neutral, Drive) and briefly pause in each position before returning to Park.
  
  
• Recheck Level:
  With the engine still running and the transmission in Park, remove the fill plug again.
  
  
• Final Top-off:
  If fluid overflows, the level is correct. If not, add more fluid until it overflows.
  
  
• Tighten Fill Plug:
  Tighten the fill plug to the manufacturer's specified torque (usually around 35 Nm or 26 ft-lbs).
  

4. Important Considerations:

• Use Correct Fluid:
  Use only fluids that meet the Shell M1375.4 specification or ZF Lifeguard 6.

 

[Land Rover Joe]

Local (reputable) ZF Transmission Service place charges around $1,000.00 for Transmission Service. Thinking it would cost me just over $300.00 for Transmission Fluid Exchange though I would only be replacing 50% of the ATF unless I do a follow-up.

What do you guys think about the "professional" 95% Transmission Service vs. garage fluid exchange with ZF Lifeguard 6?

I was surprise the Land Rover shop that did the Transmission Replacement did not use ZF Lifeguard 6, though I think they used some BG Conditioner maybe even BG ATF.

Have been wondering if maybe the transmission was just overfilled and that was the cause of the shuddering?

I would go for a whole fluid and filter change - whether from the shop or on your own (and when you do it yourself you know what you did!)

I would say that it is important to do routine preventative maintenance routinely. Period. My experience, and a whole bunch of science, shows that it is essential to change out fluids and keep everything clean. In fact, I would say that it would be better to use cheaper fluids (like engine oil) but change more frequently.

In terms of the overfill....I don't know. These transmissions are very sensitive. However, I would imagine you would have had this problem right away. For example.........

In 2015, when my truck was still under warranty, I coerced the dealership to do a transmission fluid and filter change (I wanted the warranty--and good thing!). I didn't realize that the dealership had to do it the hard way (jacking up the engine to get the pan off with the plastic cover and integrated filter) and didn't appreciate that dealership mechanics simply didn't have this experience (no one does this stuff anymore...). So....they screwed it up and somehow didn't get the (rather crappy, I do admit) new gasket to seal. I therefore had a very slow leak of fluid and after a month the gears were slipping. The maintenance supervisor, a great dude and old Vietnam infantryman vet then race-car driver, had a hard time believing me but knew that "I wasn't the usual driver". No one else believed me at the dealership, certainly the mechanics (who were ******). Sure enough - we had lost almost two quarts of fluid in the case and the gasket had some sort of "issue" (which they blamed on the manufacturer, of course).

I would therefore think that if you had too much in the transmission...you would have had these issues from the beginning.

 

[KarlHungus]

I wound up re-filling more or less what I took out during the 2nd top off procedure yesterday and it drives with no shudder. Will the shudder return? Who knows, maybe, possibly, probably. Leaning towards doing the ZF Lifeguard 6 exchange in about 10,000-miles, though I know only about half the ATF would actually be ZF Lifeguard 6, which makes me think why not pay the pro to exchange 95% of the fluid; I too lack trust with shops in general. Who knows what they actually did?

 

[KarlHungus]

I would go for a whole fluid and filter change - whether from the shop or on your own (and when you do it yourself you know what you did!)

I would say that it is important to do routine preventative maintenance routinely. Period. My experience, and a whole bunch of science, shows that it is essential to change out fluids and keep everything clean. In fact, I would say that it would be better to use cheaper fluids (like engine oil) but change more frequently.

In terms of the overfill....I don't know. These transmissions are very sensitive. However, I would imagine you would have had this problem right away. For example.........

In 2015, when my truck was still under warranty, I coerced the dealership to do a transmission fluid and filter change (I wanted the warranty--and good thing!). I didn't realize that the dealership had to do it the hard way (jacking up the engine to get the pan off with the plastic cover and integrated filter) and didn't appreciate that dealership mechanics simply didn't have this experience (no one does this stuff anymore...). So....they screwed it up and somehow didn't get the (rather crappy, I do admit) new gasket to seal. I therefore had a very slow leak of fluid and after a month the gears were slipping. The maintenance supervisor, a great dude and old Vietnam infantryman vet then race-car driver, had a hard time believing me but knew that "I wasn't the usual driver". No one else believed me at the dealership, certainly the mechanics (who were ******). Sure enough - we had lost almost two quarts of fluid in the case and the gasket had some sort of "issue" (which they blamed on the manufacturer, of course).

I would therefore think that if you had too much in the transmission...you would have had these issues from the beginning.

I do no think it was overfilled after my last top-off. I have only had the vehicle for a number of days so who knows what the previous owner experienced. I do have (hopefully complete) maintenance records and it appears the previous owner essentially repaired things when they broke. There is no evidence of good preventative or predictive maintenance. The previous owner did 15,000-mile/annual oil changes and wound up replacing the timing chains/tensioners/guides as well as the transmission, and coolant pipes/thermostatic housing.

I overpaid for the vehicle mainly because of the detailed service records. I still cannot believe it but fairly certain it is an HD package as I saw the rear locker on the 4x4 info screen; made me feeler better about overpaying as the owner did not know what he had.

 

[Al Pizzica]

I am planning on removing 120-ml of ATF through the trans fill port when cold, then inject 120-ml (2 Instant Shudder Fix - Lube Gard), then reset adaptation with the IID Tool and see how it does.

FYI my Indy LR shop STRONGLY advised not doing the adaptation reset on any older transmission that is having slip issues. Apparently fine to do if you are doing routine refill before things start to go bad. He said the computer "learning" the transmission can make things much worse and he's seen things go wrong.

 

[KarlHungus]

FYI my Indy LR shop STRONGLY advised not doing the adaptation reset on any older transmission that is having slip issues. Apparently fine to do if you are doing routine refill before things start to go bad. He said the computer "learning" the transmission can make things much worse and he's seen things go wrong.

Well, I have already reset adaptation twice, though I was not experiencing slipping. I was only experiencing shudder, which is almost undetectable at the moment.

I did ask a local ZF Transmission specialist if it was OK to reset adaptation the first time and he said it was the right thing to do and it would not hurt anything. Who should we believe? Some say only use ZF Lifeguard 6, many other specialists say any ZF approved transmission is fine.

 

[Al Pizzica]

Well, I have already reset adaptation twice, though I was not experiencing slipping. I was only experiencing shudder, which is almost undetectable at the moment.

I did ask a local ZF Transmission specialist if it was OK to reset adaptation the first time and he said it was the right thing to do and it would not hurt anything. Who should we believe? Some say only use ZF Lifeguard 6, many other specialists say any ZF approved transmission is fine.

Yup, lots of conflicting info out there. FYI I used the Ford Mercon fluid which is way cheaper and it is approved for the tranny. Works great.