jaguardoc504
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20 inch mud terrain success
- Thread starter Wheelan
- Start date
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ncburch22
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That’s my current tire. It measures 31.9 new. The MT is slightly larger with the same spec 275/55 size. The duractrac is a passenger tire, not LT and it shows. 20k miles on it, rotated/balanced every 5k. Front left has a bubble and the rest are chewed up and chopped up. Ran at 37psi. Several hundred pounds under at a C load range.
ncburch22
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The photo I posted is your truck? How do you like your tires? Wear?
The 285/50 size isn’t showing on Toyo’s website in the States. I’ve got 2.5” Johnsons that I run full time with my current 275/55 Duratracs. The 275/55 MT’s measure out to 32.1” where as my Duratracs are 31.9”.
Did you have rubbing or any fitment issues? I’ve got the same wheels as you. I’m not sure what the offset is but I’m sure that helps us with tires.
I’m concerned with the sidewall lugs rubbing the upper control arm. Are you running spacers? Sorry for a bombardment of questions. Any help would be appreciated.
Wheelan
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HI there, maybe scroll to the very first post, all will be revealed!
ncburch22
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Sorry, just realized you’re not running
Sorry! Just realized that! Thanks! Tire looks great btw! How’s the road noise?
Sorry! Just realized that! Thanks! Tire looks great btw! How’s the road noise?
Just as a sidebar, why did you ask this? What I mean is, what were you trying to differentiate by the answer?
They're the same thing in reality, aren't they? Rods just trick the sensors into reading a lower value mechanically, where the stuff like IIDTool tells the computer to change the effective center electronically - just using a stick vs using an electronic device to make the exact same thing happen, isn't it?
ncburch22
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You can actually use a rod lift AND a gap tool lift in conjunction with each other. By doing the combo you can get a higher clearance on top of the rod lift without an EAS fault. I’m highly considering pulling the trigger on a set of 275/55 Toyo’s as I’ve found a deal on them locally.
This is a 285/55 KO2 which measures 32.4”. The 275/55 MT’s are 32.1”. The guy who fit 285’s stated in addition to the rod lift he had to cut the frame back some to get a full lock on steering. I don’t imagine much more rub on a 32.1” tire.
In the photo with the canoe on rack shows a 295 size which is just under 34”. They did a gap tool AND rod lift in addition to heavy cutting of wheel wells. Also, there are a few on Instagram who have custom fitted 33” and 35” tires. All depends on how much work you want to do.
Gotcha - both can do some, but combining the two can do more than either can do on their own without ******* the computer off. Makes sense. I didn't know the tolerance for either could make the computer mad, but it stands to reason. I was more curious about him asking if one or the other as if doing either alone would have a different outcome - wanted to know what that may be. But I may have misread what he was asking.
For what it's worth I'm sort of familiar with the whole off-roading thing - I consider what I've done to my 4Runner heavy cutting of wheel wells, not what the instagram folks do to LR4s to fit 33"s. Everything is relative.
Wheelan
New Member
I must say, I was so tempted by the 275/55 but erred on the cautious side. After seeing the clearances I have shown in my photos at very top of post (dropped to the bump stops), there was not much to play with as far as clearances go. Comparing the size 285/50 =793mm and the 275/55=810mm there is a 17mm increase in diameter so halve that and she would be touching. Remember, the photos below are on the bump stops.
Front liner
Now, I know alot of you are running permanent lifts and would say "my car would be clear with 2 inches of lift", but at the end of the day, through full articulation of the wheels when offroading, you will potentially rub when the wheel travels through these areas. So if it touches at the bump stops, you will touch when offroad.
Front liner
Now, I know alot of you are running permanent lifts and would say "my car would be clear with 2 inches of lift", but at the end of the day, through full articulation of the wheels when offroading, you will potentially rub when the wheel travels through these areas. So if it touches at the bump stops, you will touch when offroad.
ncburch22
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Gotcha - both can do some, but combining the two can do more than either can do on their own without ******* the computer off. Makes sense. I didn't know the tolerance for either could make the computer mad, but it stands to reason. I was more curious about him asking if one or the other as if doing either alone would have a different outcome - wanted to know what that may be. But I may have misread what he was asking.
For what it's worth I'm sort of familiar with the whole off-roading thing - I consider what I've done to my 4Runner heavy cutting of wheel wells, not what the instagram folks do to LR4s to fit 33"s. Everything is relative.
Yeah I know what you mean by “cutting”. It’s all perspective. So, from what I’ve gathered the 32.1” MT’s will fit but only with at least 3/4” spacers. I’m not a fan of spacers. I’ve already replaced both front hubs. Easy, but not wanting to do it again. The upper control arms sit close to the tires with OEM offsets causing the sidewalls to rub on most larger tires. I’ve heard nothing but great things about the KO2 so it looks like my route.
