Rover Range
Full Access Member
Yes. Sorry. pic wouldn't upload.
Wire is blue, with a brown tracer.
Wire is blue, with a brown tracer.
2012 LR4 continued charging issues
- Thread starter BlackOmega
- Start date
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BlackOmega
Active Member
I think I Id'd the connector, C0634, just need to know how to locate pin 95, which one is pin #1?
Rover Range
Full Access Member
Did you change out the negative battery cable?
BlackOmega
Active Member
If PIN#1 was the bottom right in this pic then above that would be pin#25, then above that pin#49 and finally pin#73, if that is right I just need to know how to locate PIN #1
BlackOmega
Active Member
Did NOT change out negative cable
Rover Range
Full Access Member
Looking into the connector. Connector has 96 pins. Pin 95, 2nd one in. On the bottom right side.
Rover Range
Full Access Member
In a previous post. I thought it was determined to have high resistance in the battery monitor?
BlackOmega
Active Member
I found a post where someone had tested the battery monitor an saw a voltage difference between measuring at the post and measuring after the battery monitor, mine is the same at both locations. Sorry I am used to working on older cars and this is the newest I have owned, so I appreciate your patience and knowledge. First time electrical issues as well.
Rover Range
Full Access Member
The pins are labeled on the connector.
The voltage should be the same on both sides of the battery monitor, on the negative cable.
The voltage should be the same on both sides of the battery monitor, on the negative cable.
txfromwi
Full Access Member
Sorry, I did not read the entire thread, only reacting to the first post.
Something somewhere is not firmly connected.
In my limited experience on this topic, my first reaction is that 22Amps means that a battery terminal is loose - I am sure by now that has been eliminated.
I assume you have already checked that the ground is good and has not corroded.
With all the simple things eliminated then I agree this is a bad connection or a broken wire somewhere.
You might need to check every wire end to end - and if it's intermittent then it's especially challenging.
Three stories, of course only tangentially related, but all related to bad wiring.
My aunt inherited a beautiful 1956 Chrysler in the late '70's.
No seat belts so she had some installed.
Several months later total chaos, turn on the blinker and the brake lights would turn on, etc. - really strange things.
Teenager me gets busy with the voltmeter and starts poking around.
Eventually diagnosed WHERE something was wrong.
Turned our that when they installed the seat belt on the drivers side, they simply drilled a hole in the floor boards and put in a bolt with some fender washers.
They missed a major wiring harness by half an inch when they drilled the hole, but the washer totally covered the harness and squashed it.
Over time the insulation failed and pretty much every wire in that harness was talking to every other wire, and to ground - lots of splices to repair all those damaged wires.
My Nissan once went nuts.
Same as with the example above, a squashed wiring harness.
In that instance the harness ran inside the air intake manifold and when the manifold was installed the harness was squashed and eventually the insulation failed.
That was my error when re-installing it after replacing the fuel injectors.
My very first car, my Austin Marina.
Teenager me falls for labeling hype on a set of ignition cables at K-Mart, "carbon core, ultra low resistance".
Until it gets Wisconsin cold and the carbon core contracts and the carbon breaks internally to the insulation.
And it's intermittent, when it's "warm" or I somehow get the car started, the carbon expands and makes the connection and it runs fine.
When it's "cold" the carbon contracts and breaks the connection, one or more cylinders won't fire and it won't start or if it does it only runs on 2 or 3 cylinders until it warms up.
Good luck on yours, please keep us informed!
Something somewhere is not firmly connected.
In my limited experience on this topic, my first reaction is that 22Amps means that a battery terminal is loose - I am sure by now that has been eliminated.
I assume you have already checked that the ground is good and has not corroded.
With all the simple things eliminated then I agree this is a bad connection or a broken wire somewhere.
You might need to check every wire end to end - and if it's intermittent then it's especially challenging.
Three stories, of course only tangentially related, but all related to bad wiring.
My aunt inherited a beautiful 1956 Chrysler in the late '70's.
No seat belts so she had some installed.
Several months later total chaos, turn on the blinker and the brake lights would turn on, etc. - really strange things.
Teenager me gets busy with the voltmeter and starts poking around.
Eventually diagnosed WHERE something was wrong.
Turned our that when they installed the seat belt on the drivers side, they simply drilled a hole in the floor boards and put in a bolt with some fender washers.
They missed a major wiring harness by half an inch when they drilled the hole, but the washer totally covered the harness and squashed it.
Over time the insulation failed and pretty much every wire in that harness was talking to every other wire, and to ground - lots of splices to repair all those damaged wires.
My Nissan once went nuts.
Same as with the example above, a squashed wiring harness.
In that instance the harness ran inside the air intake manifold and when the manifold was installed the harness was squashed and eventually the insulation failed.
That was my error when re-installing it after replacing the fuel injectors.
My very first car, my Austin Marina.
Teenager me falls for labeling hype on a set of ignition cables at K-Mart, "carbon core, ultra low resistance".
Until it gets Wisconsin cold and the carbon core contracts and the carbon breaks internally to the insulation.
And it's intermittent, when it's "warm" or I somehow get the car started, the carbon expands and makes the connection and it runs fine.
When it's "cold" the carbon contracts and breaks the connection, one or more cylinders won't fire and it won't start or if it does it only runs on 2 or 3 cylinders until it warms up.
Good luck on yours, please keep us informed!
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