2012 V8 Gas LR4 P0087 Low Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Problem

Discussion in 'LR4' started by VinnyAllenMX, Nov 22, 2016.

  1. stl8grey

    stl8grey Well-Known Member

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    I finally fixed the stall. I replaced "tank pressure" sensor LR015356. Though, on the scanner there were zero change in fuel pressure. It is located on the passenger side of the transmission behind a heat shield. There was zero change in electrical output to the driver module and tank pump. I too went thru the obstacle of swapping out HP pumps and verifying their timing via the vacuum pump. I even swapped out the tank pump and rail sensor when HP pumps did not remedy the stall. I could not figure how to uncouple the sensor from the line. I ended up bringing the line down a bit and away from the transmission in order to use shorty wrenches for the job. The sensor unscrews from the male quick connect insert. I did not think I had fixed it since none of the specs had changed in live data. Yet, it runs great now. I am still shocked it stopped stalling. The reason I changed that sensor was due to a YouTube video I saw of a gentlemen teaching a class about the LR 5.0 fuel issues. He mentions this sensor in regards to low pressure.
     
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  2. avslash

    avslash Full Access Member

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    Could you link to the video for future reference.
     
  3. stl8grey

    stl8grey Well-Known Member

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    It is an Autologic video.
     
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  4. cperez

    cperez Full Access Member

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    Within first 2 min he mentions 93 octane and BG44K. I've got the high octane covered as standard choice and the BG sounds like cheap insurance. Hopefully my previous owner didn't cheap out too much during the first 30K miles but over the 28K I've put on it, it's been nothing but max premium, mostly Shell.
     
  5. BeemerNut

    BeemerNut Full Access Member

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    After watching that Autologic video five or six days ago mentioning the 5.0 LR engine I bet it was not very comforting for any 5.0 powered LR owners. Add to this anyone on the fence thinking of purchasing a LR vs another brand, I bet if they saw this video they would make a decision to not walk but run away from LR's fast as they can.

    Five gallons of gasoline puking out of the tailpipe makes me think about overheated and melted catalytic substrate material damage that will happen by just one cylinder was misfiring. replacement cost for converters?
    Cylinder walls washed dry of their lubricating oil called scored bores, pistons and rings damage.

    Raw gas leaking from the HP pumps into the engine's oil.
    Direct injectors failing low as 10,000 miles mentioned.
    Direct injection is not all it cracks up to be in reliability, common sense the nasty environment they're operating under.
    Injectors sold in sets of four or one complete bank at a time must not be cheap.
    Chain guides failing due to quality control issues.
    The remark about the HP fuel pumps timing jumping a tooth or more out of time then reset back to spec timing, fault codes cleared then selling the vehicle. Some poor bass-turd ending up with a used and expensive piece of yard art.
    That video sure was an eye opener including the comment about it was not the brand of oil used causing timing chain guide failures.
    Best part those that blame it on Ford for manufacturing LR's engines, nope it's LR's design engineers and bean counters that tell the Ford's engine manufacturing plant what they at LR want built their way at LR. Who's the blame here?
     
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  6. avslash

    avslash Full Access Member

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    And a well refined LS swap would cure all of these ills.....
     
  7. BeemerNut

    BeemerNut Full Access Member

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    I fully agree to almost 100% but not as a 60 year production run engine (SBC) has been debugged to the highest degree now making big Hp numbers.
    Even a Lexis V8 swap I read about on this forum would be my second choice, chebbie the third. Still holding the 4.6 as number one.
    A dyed in the wool 215 Olds engine follower dating back to the 60's era which became LR's 4.0 & 4.6 push rod engine. Dad and his machine shop friends were racing 215's years ago hence I grew up around them.
    Tweaking and machining parts, 4-hole injector upgrades, steel roller timing gear set with roller chain, Mark Adams chip, Piper cam and lifters (a must vs LR rubbish), intake, heads and exhaust porting plus a pre-oiler system to the 4.6 powered 95 D1 5 spd. These engines need a pre oiler before cold starting period! It came alive now a solidly reliable trouble free engine even run hard but not abused. Lucas starter rubbish replaced with a Nippon starter. Best part able to bump start should a starter fail with several Lucas POS starter failures.
    The above added items plus machine work years ago I was chastised for doing these modifications as "LR's are supposed to be slow but capable vehicles". Yeah right considering I still run the LR engine and did not hack it up installing a 350 chebbie becoming silent on this forum for several years. Even posted photos of the aluminum intake extension I milled out as well the injector cleaner and flow tester I built. I was called out and accused of "PLAGIARISM".
    My chit runs great, passes Calif. smog almost running too clean. Yeah they run calibration gas into the smog machine not believing the low print out numbers vs a LR's 3.9 (94 to 95 OB1) powered D1's. Normal running then for smog by repositioning the TPS unit, remove the cold ram air ducting both a 2 minute changeover ready for test. Plenum chamber under the throttle plate hot coolant circulation hose has a brass slug restriction inside with a 1/16" in hole reducing the intake air charge temp much lower so Mr. engine is much happier.
    A couple years ago I was offered a LR4 straight across for my 95 D1 after we did a little stoplight to stoplight racing as I out dragged the LR4 (non supercharged). I do not not have a cammed up stupid engine as it will pull away under light acceleration in 3rd from 450 rpm's, a very flexible engine that even the wifey can drive in a town full of stop signs almost every damn block. Skip gears, 1st to 3rd then 5th not a problem.
    Pulled a dual axle U-Haul car trailer loaded with a complete 70 F250 pickup with three 390 Ford FE engines plus one C6 automatic in the bed. Somewhere between 8,900 and 9,300 pounds of towed trailer. Only able to tow at 52 to 53 mph max before the trailer began fish tailing. Over two grades coming home all pulled in 4th gear on the grades, 5th on the flat. No way the 3.9 it would of been lucky to of pulled the trailer in 2nd.
    All my vehicles have OHV push rods but I have two OHC lawn mowers, that count as modern "high tech"?......~~=o&o>.......
     
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2019
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  8. avslash

    avslash Full Access Member

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    I'm still chugging along on my original chain and tensioners, but should (when) those ever go, I would either attempt the repair myself, or look long and hard at swapping in another mill given the numbers I hear shops charging for that repair.

    My Rover indy who I shoot the $hit with from time to time is pretty adamant that there is at least one LS powered 3/4 out there, and he is not referring to the RRS that has been recently posted up here.

    The economics might be different for me than many, as my 4 is a complete toy for me at this point that I have no intention of ever selling. If faced with a $7K nut to repair a 100K+ engine, dropping another $7K to swap in a more powerful, reliable engine with unlimited parts support starts to look a bit smarter to me.

    The Toyota is an interesting thought, but if I'm going that route, I think I would go with what engine would be the easiest to support in the future.
     
  9. BeemerNut

    BeemerNut Full Access Member

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    Being in Calif. as well in one of the strictest groups of nine bay area counties, no way would an engine swap pass the visual smog tests. It would take them 1/2 a second after lifting the hood failing us. Bootlegged 4.6 short block with everything else off the 3.9 looking factory stock passes the visual. Later 4.0 smaller combustion chamber heads plus they can not tell I have the longer stroke 4.6 plus running with the 3.9's distributor.

    The best part running a LS you can be anywhere in the US, stop in any small town and get replacement parts for the LS engine. Reading the forum of LR members driving several hrs or hundreds of miles to the nearest LR dealership for parts be it a DIY repair or having a dealership do the repairs must flat suck. Think about the bill a flatbed lift to a far away dealership.
    Peugeot comes to mind a neighbor proudly owned until it needed a flatbed lift to a far away dealership then finding out a needed replacement part would take 5 weeks being shipped from Europe. Too odd of an off brand manufactured automobile.
    On replacement engines I always liked Porsche's aluminum 928 V8 engine. Could of had a complete and clean 928 from a donation organization that had fuel injection problems not able to run on all eight and pass smog as it sat for five years in the garage. Fuel system flush including the injectors and filters was my diagnose. I turned down their $750 asking price as I had an inside connection with the company doing electrical for their buildings on the side. They owed me big time. Too many projects at the time in the shop plus the garages already packed full besides the LR was already apart.
    Making the 95 D1 more powerful and dependable was the challenge I took on which I have successfully accomplished. A rewarding long term DIY project.....~~=o&o>......
     
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2019
  10. avslash

    avslash Full Access Member

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    I spoke the water-cooled Porsche language long ago. Well, I guess I still do with one of my 911's. The 928 engine was a work of art for it's time, but a bit of a pig by today's standards. Last I heard, Porsche was down to something like 20 remaining blocks in inventory going for something like $30K for a long block. K-Jetronic, L-Jetronic...that was a language in and of itself. You might very well have done yourself a favor by not ending up with that 928.

    Without researching, I'm guessing the limiting factor for the LR4 would be the torque handling capability of the ZF trans. I haven't seen a published figure, but I'm sure the info is out there somewhere.

    I think you can get crate versions of the LS that are bumping up against 500 lb-ft, which I'm guessing would be right up against the limits of the ZF box.

    Like I said, when (if) that time comes, I would definitely be putting my research time in before I just dump several K into a new LR mill. When I first started wheeling my rig I was the dumbass who was flogging a $70K truck down Jeep trails. No reason I can't be the dumbass who turns his LR 5.0 block into a coffee table in favor of an LS under the hood.
     

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