2013 LR4 - Transmission Sonnax Zip Kit Completed - The Results

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DaytonaRS7

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All together but I'm getting a transmission fault and it won't actually shift into any gears.
I move the shifter and it says R, N, or D on the dash, but the engine revs as if it's in neutral. I can't even back it off the ramps to finish filling the trans.

I'm getting code P0850-29. Park/neutral switch input circuit signal invalid

The fault goes away every restart, but come back as soon as I shift into reverse.

I paid careful attention to make sure the slide in the valvebody was aligned with the lever.

Very frustrated.

Any suggestions?

I'm about to cave and have it towed to the dealer. I don't have it in me to drop that pan and remove the vavle body again.
 
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TrinidadLR4

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sounds like the slide lever is not connected properly to the valve body(or somehow got disconnected) so the dash knows you're in a gear but the valve body itself does not. Unfortunately will have to drop the pan and fluid and make sure that part is connected properly. Sorry!
 

DaytonaRS7

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sounds like the slide lever is not connected properly to the valve body(or somehow got disconnected) so the dash knows you're in a gear but the valve body itself does not. Unfortunately will have to drop the pan and fluid and make sure that part is connected properly. Sorry!

I'm very confident it's connected.
Slide on the valve body fits into a groove on the pin.
Metal lever in the trans fits into the same groove on the pin.

I even mistakenly didn't have the metal lever in the groove, had to lossen the vavle body and reposition it. That's how I know it's correct.

And there is no way for the slide on the vavle body to fall out of place from the pin.

Maybe I don't have the harness plug on the trans rotated correctly? But then I don't think the harness collar would have been able to screw on.

Or maybe the very low trans fluid caused it? I was still in the process of filling, but there should have been about 3/4 gallon in it by the time I tried shifting though PRND. Wishful thinking?

Anyway, the truck is at the dealer now. I'm kind of afraid what they will charge, but I was(am) tired of working on it. It was 30 degrees and after 8-10hrs and being drenched in trans fluid, I had enough. I'm sure it is one of the above things, but I just didn't have it in me to do the job again.

I wish I knew of a good lr4 indie shop near me.
 
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TrinidadLR4

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That might be the issue then - there wasn't enough fluid to build up pressure to force an actual gear change. Dumb question but was your car level when you did this?
 

DaytonaRS7

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That might be the issue then - there wasn't enough fluid to build up pressure to force an actual gear change. Dumb question but was your car level when you did this?

not a dumb question, and im quite embarrassed by the answer.....no.

ive changed the fluid twice prior and always had the front on ramps, filled until dripping, backed off ramps, then continued filling. never had an issue. this time, i couldnt get it off the ramps since it wouldnt go into gear. having no way to pull the car off the ramps, I caved and had it towed. never had a chance to finish filling.

i do understand that even though this has worked before, i never removed the valve body. the amount of fluid remaining inside the valve body on other fluid changes, wasn't there this time. this could have made the difference of my fill method working or not.
I'm hoping that this is the solution and they charge me diagnostics + a few quarts of fluid.

But in my mind im expecting them to give me an estimate for 8k+ for a new transmission. the advisor flat out said "we dont fix transmissions, we only replace them". IF it comes to that, I found a Land Rover specialist (British Auto Works) about 1hr (40 miles) away that i will try to have look at it.
 
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TrinidadLR4

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Yup, it needs to be level. There is a very specific refilling procedure that involves checking the temp, then counting drips, etc. It does sound like you did everything right and just messed up the actual filling. An indy should be able to drain and refill the fluid properly for you.
 

DaytonaRS7

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so i still dont have a full answer yet, but the dealer is saying new transmission, and quoting $11,500+tax. LOL. I denied.

i asked them to fill the transmission, to which they did, and they say it now moves, is "somehwat drivable", but werent clear on what that really means. IF teh tranmission was really ****** beyond repair, the adding of fluid wouldnt have made a difference. i find this interesting.
I asked them to leave the car in the lot and ill pick it up after hours.
maybe all left to do is reset adaptations and itll be fine? ill do this when i try to pick it up. If it still doesnt drive correct, ill arrange towing from the dealer and bring it to a shop that will actually repair, rather than replace.

also a fun fact, the dealer charged me an obscene amount for what they did. I have yet to see an itemized bill, they said it will be in the car when i get it.
$480 total OTD

$190 diagnostics.
$400 fill trans labor and fluid cost
$590 total
-$118 (20% discount)

cant help but feel the trans fill labor and few quarts of fluid was a complete ripoff. even for dealer standards.
 
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DaytonaRS7

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Picked the truck up. Drove it home, slowly. Luckily I only live 3/4 mile from the dealer.

Shifts into P,R,N,D fine.

When driving it won't shift out of first. And when I let off the gas, it's like I immediately slam on the brakes, much more than engine braking.

The dealer receipt says they pulled codes
P0850-29
P0850-8F
P0736-07
P2703-07

They added 4 quarts of fluid, at $95/each.
And
Updated transmission software.

Tomorow I will be having it towed to an land rover indy shop that will repair the transmission, rather than replace.

I'm saddened that a somewhat straight forward maitnance (repair) turned out terrible. I guess I can't win 'em all.
 

TrinidadLR4

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A couple things/thoughts:
1) absolutely reset the adaptations using IID tool.
2) it sounds like the fluid level is better now as it's moving on its own. that's progress! I would check it again though - you said they added 4qts? When I did this job, I ordered 8 liters of oil and the trans took almost all 8 liters. This trans takes 6.5-7 qts of ATF when you just drop the pan, but more comes out when you remove the mechatronic.
3) it sounds like it is in first gear with the torque converter fully locked.

Dollars to donuts, its still low on fluid. If not, starting to suspect: 1) something wrong with the mechatronic unit itself, possible tiny mistake in reinstalling a component or something(electrical) got damaged in reassembly or 2) something stupid like a brake pedal switch/something electrical.

Also pull the codes with IID. Good luck. This isn't a simple job by any means so don't feel bad.

edit: also, for ***** n giggles, check fuse 57. It is for interior lights. For some crazy reason the TCM is on the same circuit.
 
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DaytonaRS7

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I reset trans adaptations before driving.

I had no codes or faults when I picked it up.

As I was driving, I got a transmission fault error on the dash. iid shows no faults or codes though. Weird.

Transmission fault error is gone on every restart. It appears after driving for a couple hundred feet, again, still without shifting out of first and high revs.

Somthing else to add, I can't force it to shift using manual mode, but "S" does display on the dash.

Tried pulling codes with IID after restart (when no errors or CEL is present) and as expected, no codes then either.

I'm also to starting to suspect something went wrong with the mechatronic unit upon reassembly. And I'm prepared for the indy shop to tell me I'll need a new /rebuilt one.
 
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