275/65R18 GY MT-R or Discoverer STT mud

[NASdiesel]

I recently put the cooper STT pros on mine and am taking it in to have a slightly larger KM3 put on next week. The coopers are loud. Seriously loud. I'm going to put them on my xventure trailer instead. My Toyo muds were quieter. Hoping the KM3 is quieter.

 

[m_lars]

working on the project..

Have a 2011 LR4 Nara Bronze. After some long thought out research on 18” vs 20” wheels I have decided on 18x8 LR3 oem 10spoke (powder coating them semi-gloss black). Too many issues with offsets and such on other wheels. Plan to use Gap iiD and or a slick system like LLams or Mudtech Prolift or XLift. Advice welcome!

Also.. will the 275/65 have any issues mounting on 18x8 wheel? Or should I be looking for 18x8.5?

Anybody have experience with either of these “shoes”. I am aware there will be road noise but not familiar with either. Most likely an “E” load. Looking for more aggressive look but also being used 85% daily driver. Live in Northeast so terrain is mostly dirt,mud, Forrest, rocks, gravel. Will be wheeling in PA and MD mostly. Occasional drives to upstate NY or NC for camping. Will pull trailer occasionally.. obviously not concerned too much about fuel economy . Open to any other recommendations. Have considered the KO2s also. This is my first go at an overland project/daily dad Rover.

#rOverlandRecon

I’ve got an LR3 that I’ve run 275/65/18 Duratracs and currently have 265/70/18 Cooper S/T Maxx on the stock LR3 wheel you said you were considering. I had a tiny bit of rubbing with the 275’s in reverse at full lock passenger. I dialed in a little extra height via GapTool to help remedy the rub, though there are some on here who’d call me a poser and that it’s not necessary. I have since used a flappy disc to clean up the front of the inner wheel well and I don’t think it’d rub anymore. Near end of their life I had a EAS failure and was able to drive home with no rubbing.

Someone else mentioned you might consider the S/T Maxx and I second that given you said it’s a daily driver. They have an aggressive look, have performed well for me off road and have excellent road manors. The 265/70 are taller than the 275/65 so to fit those I did flatten the pinch seam in the rear wheel well. I haven’t remolded the bump in the wheel well that covers that seam yet, so I do get a bit of a rub if I hit a bump in a corner at highway speeds.

I’m sure this doesn’t all directly translate since you’ve got different brakes in the LR4, but hopefully it helps.

 

[jwest]

I dialed in a little extra height via GapTool to help remedy the rub, though there are some on here who’d call me a poser and that it’s not necessary.

Yeah but you get extra points for going with the 265/70 !

 

[jwest]

Near end of their life I had a EAS failure and was able to drive home with no rubbing.

If you meant end of the life of the tire, then it was also considerably smaller so rubbing should certainly have been gone by then anyway.

The rear fender liner bump fix: the best way is to just cut it out to flat area, then rivet on a flat piece of similar plastic or rubber.

I have actually considered replacing all the fender liners with a heavy duty rubber sheet to gain as much clearance as possible everywhere but have not figured out a way to make it stay in place that isn't an adhesive.

These fender liners and especially the fender flares are incredibly inefficient in use of space and attaching with all the various tabs and molded shapes. I hate that removing the flares would leave the whole thing looking taken apart. The disco 2 you could just remove them and have a finished metal body edge.

 

[avslash]

If you meant end of the life of the tire, then it was also considerably smaller so rubbing should certainly have been gone by then anyway.

The rear fender liner bump fix: the best way is to just cut it out to flat area, then rivet on a flat piece of similar plastic or rubber.

I have actually considered replacing all the fender liners with a heavy duty rubber sheet to gain as much clearance as possible everywhere but have not figured out a way to make it stay in place that isn't an adhesive.

These fender liners and especially the fender flares are incredibly inefficient in use of space and attaching with all the various tabs and molded shapes. I hate that removing the flares would leave the whole thing looking taken apart. The disco 2 you could just remove them and have a finished metal body edge.

I have thought about trying to undercut them to where you are just left with the outer profile, but remove the bottom edge and protrusions into the wheel well.

I suck at artsy stuff, though, so I shied away from it.

Doing that with your sheet idea would free up considerable space. Hmmm. There has to be something out there that would work.

 

[BikePilot]

I bet you could make some from kydex

 

[avslash]

I bet you could make some from kydex

LOL.

I probably have enough unused kydex holsters in one my drawers to do at least 2 wheel wells. FDE might look a little silly with the white Rover, though.

Kidding aside, not a bad idea. I know it is available in multiple thicknesses, is heat moldable, and will hold a fastener when set.

Wonder what the truck would look like if you ditched the fender flares and had a good body guy fill the fastener holes and paint to match.

Damn, this truck is a rabbit hole.