A differant LR3 ignition problem

[BoulderGT3]

Does it happen with both keys? And I got the impression it was happening to your wife in Florida, which is not in RF proximity to Boulder CO last I looked....?

Any issues with remote key fob range when you are in your garage?

Upon even futher review by the NFL officials, here's what is going on. You stop the car with and with your foot still on the brake shift to Park. So far so good. When the key is turned off with your foot still on the brake it will not go to the 0 position but it feels very close to it. With the engine still running, no choice, if you take your foot off the brake the engine shuts down and now you can turn the ignition all the way off and remove the key. It is not an RF issue although that is what everybody thought it was, myself included. It has to be something in the interlock system that has gone haywire. The good news is that the truck does it everytime now so it can be replicated at the dealer.

 

[GrahamWelland]

Interesting to read this here. I had the same type of problem during the week in the middle of the Olympic mountains. It seemed like the key interlock was still active even though the LR3 was in park and I'd released the brake. That key wasn't going anywhere!

I went through a remote diagnosis & try this, try that process with the LR tech over the phone and it seemed to be for me that the way to release the key was to stop the vehicle, put it in park (foot on brake), ignition off, release foot, press brake pedal again, release pedal, remove key. Now I know that's the way I always do it (other than double pump) and never had a problem in the past 75k miles. We concluded that perhaps that the brake switch might have an intermittent problem ... let's see what the tech's say when it's in for service.

Of course, other than the single day when it occurred multiple times it hasn't happened since!

 

[Houm_WA]

You guys should learn the habit of the correct shutdown sequence:

1. Stop the car with the foot brake.
2. With the car still in D, apply the electronic parking brake.
3. Shift to N; Take your foot off the brake.
4. Put your foot back onto the brake; shift to P.
5. Take your foot off the brake; turn the car off.

You can also merge steps 2 and 3 by shifting to N and then putting on the Parking brake and doing the little tap dance with the foot brake; but the sequence above is smoother.

 

[roverman]

Houm, you're kidding...right??

 

[JackMac]

Houm, you're kidding...right??

I suspect he is not. That method would ensure that the parking brake is holding the vehicle stationary instead of resting on the transmission.

But if he is kidding, I will delete this post and deny that it ever existed!

 

[Houm_WA]

I am absolutely NOT kidding. That is how I park the vehicle every single time I drive it. Not only was it posted on this forum years ago; but it's also taught at the LR Experience Driving School.

Heck, I now habitually park our Camry that way too!

 

[roverman]

No, I thought you were being a little bit sarcastic. I remember that old post because I was arguing that that was the best way to do it. I just didn't think anybody actually did it....Impressive.
I think I've only even used my e-brake a dozen times. Pretty flat land around here.

 

[Houm_WA]

I love my e-brake. It's one of my favorite features. It sounds cool....try it at 30 mph!

 

[GrahamWelland]

Update on my own ignition issue where my key was held in the lock by the ignition interlock on a couple of occasions on one day recently.

I had the codes run my vehicle as I'd also had a couple of check-engine lights - one at altitude/sub zero temperature in the Sierras and the last one after starting up the vehicle at about 20f. No apparent problems other than the nag light that went away after a few days.

Anyway, there were hundreds of codes stored in the hypercondriac computer but mostly complaining about various low voltage conditions. The majority were benign but included in the reports was a low voltage condition related to the ignition key assembly for the two occasions where I couldn't remove the key. Again, these were in low temperature conditions when running off battery. Hmmm.

As it happens I'd already asked for the battery to be replaced, even though I'd not experienced any obvious problems with starting up the vehicle at all but four years felt like it was overdue. Subsequent check of the battery pretty much confirmed that it needed replacing and so now I'm running with a new battery and we're going to check for codes again at next service.

Another interesting issue we found when replacing the battery and doing an all round check was that I'd also blown a brake light bulb. Now this shouldn't have affected the ignition lock per se, but it doesn't seem like a stretch of the imagination to conclude that this might have been another factor in the computer believing that the vehicle wasn't truly in park/stopped and hence not releasing the key.

Anyway, I just thought this might be helpful for anyone else searching here in the future with the same problem. The battery condition & associated codes are worth checking in addition to the obvious brake/park engagement etc.