Bleeder/vent valve cracked, need some advise

[luckystrike]

Hey
first post, I have read here before and never needed to post until now.
I have a 2006 LR3 HSE, around 88K mi.

anyways, noticed a crystallized mist on my back window on the freeway. checked and noticed coolant sprayed all over the frame, checked under cover and this little Tee bleeder or vent valve was cracked on both ends.

right after a 250mi trip back from vegas. was about 100 degrees, so I am certain it was heat that cracked it. and why LR decided to make this part out of plastic? not sure.

what I would like to know is the best way to remove the plastic ends that are still broken off and stuck inside the hose, I dont really want to chew it up and get plastic in the line.

also does a all brass version of this valve exsist? what coolant do you guys use?



sorry for the noob questions

Thanks

 

[RoverGuy7]

I don't know if any one has come up with a metal version, but from Land Rover, you can only get it with the hoses that are on both sides. To remove, take a small pair of needle nose pliers, and work one end all the way around the plastic before you try and pull it out. If you plan on not changing the hoses, be very careful not to puncture the hose itself.

For coolant, I only recommend Land Rover XLC, it's organic acid coolant, unlike Dexcool, and is what the engine is designed to use. I'm sure there are plenty of others out there that will work just fine, personal preference, it's a small extra cost as long as you aren't leaking you won't need any more for a few years.

 

[thorgal]

Dex Cool is what LR dealer in NJ sold me, it is called ZEREX.Then a few months later when I though i needed an extra gallon, they offered me a land rover extended life fluid.I also purchased a separate T from them , proactively ,as it was available as a separate part at that time.Then ,a few months a go , when thermostat cover cracked near a engine block, I have decided to buy an entire set of new hoses and replaced them all along with that dreaded plastic T bleeder valve, well except the hose , that comes down deep into engine block, left from that particular bleeder valve ,I just could not find out where it ends, so I left the old one intact.I have use all five gallons of dec cool( I don't really remember which one was it) mixed with five gallons of distilled water.While bleeding procedure cooling system took all two gallons of mixed fluids and next day some more ,from additional LR extended life gallon that i have as extra.
If you can't get a seperate T, just buy a one with two hoses attached on both ends and replace it .You also will have to bleed the system properly.Good luck

 

[CMGRover]

I just put in a brass splice and two hose clamps on mine, it's been working fine. Even has one trip to CO under its belt.

 

[luckystrike]

Thanks everyone, i ended up having to crush what was left in the line with vise grips and then pull them out, pliers alone was just taking small chunks off at a time. I found an aftermarket all brass valve but it was around $50.

Thanks again

 

[umbertob]

Just FYI, BPUtah.com sells that valve for about $10 (the OEM plastic one that eventually falls apart...), as well as the pre-assembled valve with attached hoses: http://www.bputah.com/LR3parts/Land_Range_Rover_Sport_LR3_Radiator_Coolant_Hose_Valve_LR027661.html and http://www.bputah.com/LR3parts/Land_Range_Rover_Sport_LR3_Radiator_Coolant_Hose_LR006158.html