Bleeding cooling system

Discussion in 'LR4' started by Jeffry Johnson, Feb 3, 2019.

  1. scott schmerge

    scott schmerge Full Access Member

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    Bleed is not complicated. What’s the fiasco you are speaking of?
     
  2. stl8grey

    stl8grey Full Access Member

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    I totally thought I bleed it correctly. I filled crossover pipe via bleed port. I even filled radiator via upper hose. I added coolant expansion tank slowly. Ran it until temp rose to normal level. Coolant never came out of bleed ports. Coolant level in tank never altered. I let sit a few hours. No change in coolant tank. Took it for a run. Heated up real quick. I have all apart. Maybe a walrus crawled into a hose.
     
  3. scott schmerge

    scott schmerge Full Access Member

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    Once thermostat opens it will come out of the bleed holes. Make sure your heater is on high, both front and back. Heat should blow hot if it’s bled correctly (that means heater core has water flowing).

    When you open expansion tank after it gets hot, did coolant rise? If so, leave top off and let water settle...most assuredly it will be empty in the morning. Top up.
     
  4. stl8grey

    stl8grey Full Access Member

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    Yes it did rise.
     
  5. scott schmerge

    scott schmerge Full Access Member

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    that possibly means airlock (air expands more than coolant when hot). Leave cap off and it should suck most of fluid back in. Air pockets should rise near bleed screws. The most important one is the one near the battery. Get the car hot at idle and open the screws a couple turns. If fluid never comes out, open it more. You should feel the hoses get warm when thermostat opens.

    If you still have airlock, your top radiator hose will flatten as the coolant cools off.
     
  6. stl8grey

    stl8grey Full Access Member

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    Took most of the night. Got alot more coolant in it this time. That bleeder screw on the heater hose broke as I unscrewed. JB Weld Kwik to the rescue. Did not have another screw that would fit. Uncouple the quick disconnect directly in front of port an used that as the bleeder. Runs good now. I did fill all of the hose prior to starting the LR4.
     
  7. avslash

    avslash Full Access Member

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    The key for me in getting mine bled was to hold the rpms up as stated in the service manual.

    I couldn't get any flow into the rear heater core without doing this. Once I looked up the actual procedure and held the rpms up as specified in the manual, it was easy-peasy.

    Mr. Schmerge has posted previously that Advance Auto sells a 2 pack of those plastic bleeder screws for something like $4.00.

    As an aside, has anybody found a supplier for the brass version of the bleeder port/screw assembly? I know they are out there, at least for the LR3, but not sure if it is the same part for a 5.0.
     
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  8. stl8grey

    stl8grey Full Access Member

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    Thank you.
     
  9. scott schmerge

    scott schmerge Full Access Member

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    I found a brass one on amazon. Let me see if I can find it. I think I posted it up before. It’s a bmw part but fits perfectly, just like the plastic one.

    Edit: I think this is it:
    EVER STORE 17111712788 Coolant Bleeder Screw Compatible for BMW E46 E92 E90 E36 E39 & Mini Cooper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S7H7P1F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZVexDbF392HRG

    Good call on the rpm revs. I didn’t need to do so on mine, but probably wouldn’t hurt to have a little increased pressure to force the coolant around the system
     
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  10. avslash

    avslash Full Access Member

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    Thanks. Ordered.

    I could have sworn I saw a complete brass unit (housing and screw) at some point, but I can't find it now. This would deal with the screw housing snapping off, which I have heard of, as well.
     

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