Brake pads already worn?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

jaguardoc504

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2014
Posts
419
Reaction score
98
Do any of you have any issues with squeaks or squeals when replacing the pads only (keeping rotors)? Everytime I have ever tried that I get either vibration or annoying squeaks. At this point as soon as one set needs replaced (front or rear) I just do all 4 corners at once to be done with it, sort of like getting a new set of tires, I never replace just 2.
That's one of the reasons I use the EBC pads. They have a break in coating to "resurface" to rotors and match them to the new pads

Sent from my SM-G928V using Tapatalk
 

miketubby

New Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2013
Posts
1
Reaction score
0
I own an LR4, 3 years old, 60K miles. I replaced the pads at 32K miles with Pagid OEM ones and will likely have top replace again soon.

Remember that the LR4 weighs 2.55 metric tonnes unladen and has an automatic transmission so little engine braking available in real terms.

On the other hand, my Toyoya Celica will do 70K miles on a set of pads!
 

DonFromCanada

Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2011
Posts
18
Reaction score
1
My LR4 had an odd thing happen.

With the brakes only on the right side, the pad wore down only on the outer side. The sensor is on the inner side so I got no warning.

My rears wore down and started grinding the rotor. Replaced both rear pads with rotors.

Three weeks later, the right front did the same thing. Outer pad wore into the rotor. Inner of had lots of meat left on it.

The sensors on this truck are front driver side (inner pad) and rear passenger (inner pad).

I guess it's just my luck they wore on the side that had no sensor.
 

roverman

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2007
Posts
1,667
Reaction score
108
You should check to make sure your caliper slide pins (if that's what they are called), are working properly and not corroded. Had that happen to me on my LR3 once.
 

howardduff

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2014
Posts
87
Reaction score
11
Location
Cleveland, Ohio
Another thing that I have seen happen is the pads don't slide freely thru the caliper. When I change brake pads, I always make sure the pads run freely thru the caliper, if they don't I file the ears on the brake pad. I also put anti seize along the notch on the caliper so that there is some lubrication. The brake pad is just a stamping and the stamping die wears out over time. Don't make it too loose because you don't want it to vibrate.
If your pads hang up in the caliper you can get overheating, warp the rotor, or get pre mature wear. I had pre mature wear on a inner rear OEM pad on my LR3. The other three pads on the rear had about double the thickness, took the removed pads to the dealer and didn't get any satisfaction. Just made sure the new pads I put on didn't bind.
 

Forty Deuce

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2016
Posts
77
Reaction score
27
I'd like to replace my own brake pads. I'm at 20,000 miles and prefer to do maintenance myself. Anybody have and good DIY videos of a brake job they can share?
 

ryanjl

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2015
Posts
3,034
Reaction score
1,803
Location
KCMO
If you have ever done a brake job on any vehicle before, the LR4's brakes are just as easy, if not easier.

At 20,000 miles, you are probably just looking to replace the pads and not the rotors. If so, this video gives you an idea:


(If you are replacing your pads before your sensor has gone off, you probably don't need to replace it. Just remove it and re-clip it on the new pads.)

If you want to replace the rotors, this is a decent video:

 

jamesdchang

Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2017
Posts
10
Reaction score
1
Location
Sunnyvale, CA
Do any of you have any issues with squeaks or squeals when replacing the pads only (keeping rotors)? Everytime I have ever tried that I get either vibration or annoying squeaks. At this point as soon as one set needs replaced (front or rear) I just do all 4 corners at once to be done with it, sort of like getting a new set of tires, I never replace just 2.

I pretty consistently get squeaks. Even after changing and lubing again, i still get squeaks. My mechanic said they dont make ceramics for my 2011 LR4 which might squeak less, but he said with how heavy these cars are, it's better to have metallic because under heavy use or load, the metallic pads won't soften up as easily.
 

jaguardoc504

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2014
Posts
419
Reaction score
98
I pretty consistently get squeaks. Even after changing and lubing again, i still get squeaks. My mechanic said they dont make ceramics for my 2011 LR4 which might squeak less, but he said with how heavy these cars are, it's better to have metallic because under heavy use or load, the metallic pads won't soften up as easily.

Yes the OEm Semi-Metallic pads do squeak quite a lot, especially in the summer when they cannot cool as easily.
However there are some ceramic pads out there. You will get less dust, less noise, but the temperature coefficient of the ceramic will not render itself useful to the heavier LR4. Meaning stopping power will be sacrificed of you go that route.

https://www.trwaftermarket.com/en/catalogue/product/TPC1479/

I prefer my Semi-Metallic EBC's, but to each his own.
 

Quijote

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2013
Posts
1,263
Reaction score
323
Location
Metro Boston
I've had very little ocassional squealing on the OEM brakes. I changed all pads (OEM) and bled the brakes in the Fall (~22k miles, abotu 1k miles ago) and no squealing before or after.
 

Latest posts

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
36,269
Posts
218,089
Members
30,497
Latest member
TeriM
Top