Brake question

[ktm525]

I am currently running Brembo pads in the front with no noise. I didn't use any grease on the backing pads either but what I always do is to make sure the tabs of the backing pads are bent to create a tight fit. I go through lots of brakes (mountainous area) So far I have tried Pagid, Ferrodo, Brembo, Akebono up front with no noise issues. Rotors have been OEM x2, Brembo, Zimmermann x2.

The only time I have heard noise is when I didn't clean the rotor surface with emery cloth when I just did a pad swap. People always point o the pads being the source of dust but these soft high carbon rotors also contribute. The wear on them is incredible.

 

[cperez]

I've experimented with a few rotor/pad alternatives, but after the last experience I'm back to OEM. My LR4 was making ear-splitting screeches EVERY time I touched the brake. It was embarrassing and annoying, compounded by my wife making fun of me every time I would walk through the garage door into the house.

I hate brake dust but I hate screechy brakes even more. I have resigned myself to driving around with dirty front rims between washes. I tell myself "It's a Land Rover Thing."

 

[DirtyHal]

I've been running Max Brake Pads & Rotors for the last 25k miles and they have been great, low dust, no noise. affordable. I'm not sure what brakes were on the car when I bought it, I'm assuming OEM but they were louder and created way more dust.

 

[Parker Freeland]

Okay, so I bought a kit from FCP Euro with Zimmermann rotors and Pagid semi-metallic pads. Thanks for the tip on the orientation of the guide pins! I also suspect that the pads will have that small weight and believe those go on the outboard side of the front rotors? I did purchase a thin 17 mm box wrench as well from Amazon. Any other tips before I dive in next week?

 

[ktm525]

Okay, so I bought a kit from FCP Euro with Zimmermann rotors and Pagid semi-metallic pads. Thanks for the tip on the orientation of the guide pins! I also suspect that the pads will have that small weight and believe those go on the outboard side of the front rotors? I did purchase a thin 17 mm box wrench as well from Amazon. Any other tips before I dive in next week?

I remember it this way: Bushing pin bottom, brake pad weight top and outside.

Other tips. Clean the pins very well and relube with a silicone based grease (I use Sil Glyde) otherwise the bushing pin will stick (despite what the label of your synthetic brake grease says "rubber safe") and cause you endless issues in the future.. Make sure the mounting surface of the hub is spotless . Use some emery cloth to clean off any corrosion. That's about it. Just a regular brake job. Oh and the caliper carrier bolts are a double square and take a lot of torque to remove. They can be a bit of a bear depending if they were torqued properly last time. Make sure you have the proper sized socket. The carriers need to come off to remove the rotors.

 

[jlglr4]

Check the anti-rattle spring clips that you take off against the new ones that come with the pads. I used the pagid pads and zimmerman rotors from FCP as well. The brakes work great (very smooth and quiet), but I the new spring clips don’t fit right so the pads rattle a bit when going over bumps. Haven’t gotten around to fixing yet (it’s not all that bad), but I’m sure its the spring clips not putting enough pressure on the pad ears.

 

[Parker Freeland]

Okay, hopefully last questions! In the powerfulUK brake video, the guide pin with the rubber insert was at the top. Yet, I've seen a picture in the service manual that says it goes into bottom? I'll note the locations when I dismantle the assembly but also want a second confirmation. And, are the rubber inserts on both front and rear guide pins?

Thanks,

Parker

 

[ktm525]

Yes there are bushing front and rear. In the end it may not matter if they are on the top or bottom but LR specifies bottom so that is where I put them. The key is proper lube so the bushings do not swell and/or lube dries out. Silicone only. Otherwise a simple brake job turns into this:

 

[Parker Freeland]

Hey KTM525, thanks for the information!

For grease I bought two types but will only use one. The question is which one is better?

CRC 05361 Silaramic Brake System Grease - 5 oz.
A synthetic, dry-film, ceramic lubricant formulated to reduce brake noise and vibrations by dampening all brake vibrating frequencies. Will not run off or wash out. Works in extreme temp ranges from -50 to 3000°F. Protects against uneven pad wear.

• high film strength, stays put and water repellent
• Applications: brake pads, calipers, rubber boots, fan belts, v-belts, weather stripping, trunk seals and bumpers
• This is a Napa private branding of american grease stick company (ags) sil-glyde sg-8
• Chemical Working Temperatures: -20 To 500 Deg. F.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091KCG0W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and

Napa 7651346 SIL Glyde Silicone Lubricating Compound Tube, 8 oz.

• high film strength, stays put and water repellent
• Applications: brake pads, calipers, rubber boots, fan belts, v-belts, weather stripping, trunk seals and bumpers
• This is a Napa private branding of american grease stick company (ags) sil-glyde sg-8
• Chemical Working Temperatures: -20 To 500 Deg. F.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0054DWS1W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[ktm525]

I have never used the CRC stuff but it looks interesting. I have used the sil glyde with no complaints and is my go to.