Coolant Smell After Driving and Temperature Gauge Reading

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txfromwi

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Coolant smell is not normal, it's leaking, you just don't know from where - yet.
Reservoir can remain full even if it's a small leak - and for longer than you might think.
Direct experience on that....

Get a UV light, as above, Rover coolant is UV active, poke around absolutely everywhere.
It is possible your oil cooler tube is leaking at the o-ring on the inboard side - this will put coolant in the valley where it can evaporate and a small leak might never be seen, just smelled.
You can poke around with a boroscope but you need to know where you are looking and getting in there under the supercharger will be challenging.
One of only a billion potential leak locations.

Here is a bit of information I put together, I hope it's useful. 2016 is the same as 2015 - at least for this topic.


 

powershift

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My truck smelled for years and then the front crossover finally let go a little over a month ago. I barely added any coolant before that.

I replaced everything and it still smells in extreme heat. But so does my wife’s brand new VW.
That is a bummer to have it fail. I replaced that part on my own since the shop wanted $800 to lift the intake manifold while doing the chain. They didn't replace the top and bottom radiator hoses when they replaced the radiator so I'm not so sure how long those last. They look fine, nothing abnormal like bulges or signs of leakage and it hasn't needed coolant.
 

mm3846

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That is a bummer to have it fail. I replaced that part on my own since the shop wanted $800 to lift the intake manifold while doing the chain. They didn't replace the top and bottom radiator hoses when they replaced the radiator so I'm not so sure how long those last. They look fine, nothing abnormal like bulges or signs of leakage and it hasn't needed coolant.

Meh, it was the original part and it had over 100k on it
 

richord

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I pressurized the colling system and found a leak on the right side of the radiator at the bottom corner of the plastic that runs along the side of the radiator. I plan to replace the radiator myself.

That said, it appears this is not simple job. As I understand it the engine cooling radiator also cools the transmission. I presume I will have to drain the Transmission oil?

This radiator is attached to the A/C condenser and the super charger intercooler and power steering cooler. Can I get the engine cooling radiator out without draining or damaging those radiators?

Has anyone changed out the engine cooling radiator without having to evacuate and recharge the A/C?

I was looking at the repair manual and there is a special way to add coolant back into the radiator and system that requires pressurizing the systems with some special tools. Anyone done this and does it require special tools?
 

Longtrail

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I've not replaced the radiator so can't answer all your questions but here's what I do know:

I presume I will have to drain the Transmission oil?
No - they are decoupled, just like the oil cooler in the V is also decoupled, do pay attention to what txfromwi mentions above though about the water pump to oil cooler connection.


"I was looking at the repair manual and there is a special way to add coolant back into the radiator and system that requires pressurizing the systems with some special tools. Anyone done this and does it require special tools?"
I think many of us like vacuum filling but believe you can also fill it through the coolant tank but I can't comment on that. Vacuum filling allows you to check for leaks and is also a really convenient way to refill the system, I used this tool and would recommend it:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRH5G?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
 
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scapistron

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Can I get the engine cooling radiator out without draining or damaging those radiators?
I successfully removed the whole engine with the AC condenser left intact. You can get the radiator out while leaving that other stuff, it is fiddly though. If you are replacing the radiator, I'd also replace the charge air cooler.

I like vacuum filling through the reservoir tank, make sure you run the heat to fully cycle coolant everywhere. You'll also need a fan clutch tool.
 

f1racer328

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I successfully removed the whole engine with the AC condenser left intact. You can get the radiator out while leaving that other stuff, it is fiddly though. If you are replacing the radiator, I'd also replace the charge air cooler.

I like vacuum filling through the reservoir tank, make sure you run the heat to fully cycle coolant everywhere. You'll also need a fan clutch tool.
I did the same thing, replaced the radiator without removing/disconnecting the AC condensor. It was a pain in the ass to get the old one out but the new one went in easier.

I just ended up breaking two tabs off the old radiator on the way out, and it came out a lot easier. It's comically tight, and there are just a few small things majorly in the way.
 

richord

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Could someone tell me if the viscous fan on a 2015 LR4 is left or right threaded? In the maintenance manual on page 5254 it states left-hand thread and on page 5349 is states right hand thread.

Has anyone removed the fan and let me know which way to loosen the nut.
 

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