disc brake repair/replacement??

[GrahamWelland]

As a general note, you can do a lot to minimize the wear and tear in general driving if you follow just a few good performance driving tips. Even with a heavy vehicle like the LR3 you can benefit from setting the balance of the vehicle up correctly for bends with earlier braking, use of the throttle to power through and out of corners (for heavy vehicles think slow in, fast out). Remember that the brake, throttle and steering need to be thought of as three interconnected inputs (think of them tied in a triangle with string) and you so in general brake in a straight line as much as possible, feather between brake/steering, and then feather off between steering and throttle as you drive through the bend etc. I follow a lot of people on the road who brake late and steer through the bends with their brakes on constantly while attempting to steer at the same time - not behaviour conducive to fast, efficient comfortable travel or vehicle wear & tear. Also, if you try to drive it like every journey is a race then it'll pay you back with lots of service bills.

Now if you're in stop & go traffic and off road then the above is all kind of moot. To be honest I very rarely have to use descent control or lots of use of the traction control system so I dare say if that describes your driving (which I'm convinced is only a small proportion of LR drivers, even here btw) then I'm sure that the wear pattern will be a LOT different.

I don't mean to preach or boast about my own vehicle wear (I was surprised btw), my point is that it's well worth investing in some advanced driving training and getting some high performance vehicle experience because it pays you back in the long term with better, safer, and cheaper on road driving and maintenance, even with our heavy boat anchors of a vehicle.

 

[mustbeaudi]

Yah, yah. This guy's daughter's brake rotors either need replacement (worn too thin for spec (measure them or have your tech do so), out of round (pulse, etc.), whatever), or they don't and can be reused. None of us including him know this yet. Pads are easy DIY, rotors just add more money and time to the job. He or his mechanic gets to decide, we're just saying don't let the dealer default the daughter into $1500 of the dealer's decision (note: dealers are not selling cars now, so where's the money coming from to keep lights on?).

Good that someone mentioned the sensor now. It's either bad (triggered means a piece of it's gone) or not, but some will replace in any case even if not needed as part of the job (dealers?). I got labor on my axles for pads only with no sensors needed from my trusted indy at well under $150 per end, I brought my own pads, and he had just done another LR3 the week before. You can do worse, or better.

As far as daughter's driving techniques, I bet those are as they shall be for life at this point, but then I only know so many daughters . . .

 

[Disco Mike]

Thanks Guys! This is what I'm thinking!! I used to do this all the time, back in the day. Can still handle it, in a pinch! Thanks again for the info. I will send this over. Greg.

Just to clear up one thing, don't go to a local auto parts store and ask for an OEM type pad, you will get the noisest, dirtyest, squeakest pads ever.
Go some where on line, like Atlantic British, where they only sell rover, factory or after market parts. In your case, they have a number of different qualities of pads depending on your driving conditions. I would suggest the EBC pads for less dust, better stopping power and quality.