Disco smokes like a pothead in denial.

[Wimperdink]

OK I have a theory and I may be way out in left field and feel free to correct me if I'm way off track but.....


I'm guessing that the heet with injector cleaner & or the sea foam is doing its job causing this hidden problem to rear its ugly head. My guess at this point is that carbon may have been sealing a broken ring, or causing a ring to be stuck. The seafoam in the fuel was enough to break it loose and allow oil to flow past the rings.

That being said, if the ring is broken, its broken and will need to be replaced. If its just stuck, conceivably the issue could be corrected by squirting some seafoam down on top of the pistons, leaving it to set overnight, and vacuuming it out the next day and cranking the engine with the plugs out to blow any excess out, then replace the plugs and change the oil. This could break loose a stuck ring and correct the problem? Thoughts?

 

[joey]

If you think it is a stuck ring (more plausible then a broken one) add a quart of diesel fuel to the oil and drive it for a week, drain, change oil and then put in 15w40 oil... drive for a few hundred miles then change it again. if it is a stuck ring or valve the diesel should break it free.

 

[Wimperdink]

If you think it is a stuck ring (more plausible then a broken one) add a quart of diesel fuel to the oil and drive it for a week, drain, change oil and then put in 15w40 oil... drive for a few hundred miles then change it again. if it is a stuck ring or valve the diesel should break it free.

Do you think the diesel is a better solution than Sea Foam? Will it have any affect on seals, bearings, etc etc?

Also, would valve guides act like this? It doesn't smoke in the a.m. when I fire it up, just when its warm and I let off the throttle and hit it again.

 

[Disco Mike]

Seafoam is no good in the crank case, great as an induction cleaner or decent in the fuel tank. I would suggest doing a flush using Junk's engine flush or something similiar for better results.

 

[wolf]

Do you think the diesel is a better solution than Sea Foam? Will it have any affect on seals, bearings, etc etc?

Also, would valve guides act like this? It doesn't smoke in the a.m. when I fire it up, just when its warm and I let off the throttle and hit it again.

Hmmm? I had a very similar problem with an old Dodge 360 V8 engine (well, it had about 100 k miles on it at the time) and the problem was valve stem seals - not the guides; replaced the seals and throttle let-off smoking stopped ASAP! Another general issue for you to consider is that miss-match of plugs - as Joey will tell you - these V8's prefer a basic Champion 9as per manual) and if you must go fancy the Brit experts claim Denso Iridiums are the way to go (I have had good luck with them as well). So, get a good set of plugs in there, make certain your hi-tension leads are all in A1 shape and then see what codes it throws your way (I would make a small bet that you might clear some of that missfire stuff).

One final question, how many cranks do you do on the engine when you do your compression test (remembering that the prefeered method for accurate guaging of comp is to crank several times until the meter needle will go no higher and the highest reading is your comp)? The reason I ask is because your compression, pretty much across the board, seems a tad on the low side for a hi-comp V8.

 

[Wimperdink]

Hmmm? I had a very similar problem with an old Dodge 360 V8 engine (well, it had about 100 k miles on it at the time) and the problem was valve stem seals - not the guides; replaced the seals and throttle let-off smoking stopped ASAP! Another general issue for you to consider is that miss-match of plugs - as Joey will tell you - these V8's prefer a basic Champion 9as per manual) and if you must go fancy the Brit experts claim Denso Iridiums are the way to go (I have had good luck with them as well). So, get a good set of plugs in there, make certain your hi-tension leads are all in A1 shape and then see what codes it throws your way (I would make a small bet that you might clear some of that missfire stuff).

One final question, how many cranks do you do on the engine when you do your compression test (remembering that the prefeered method for accurate guaging of comp is to crank several times until the meter needle will go no higher and the highest reading is your comp)? The reason I ask is because your compression, pretty much across the board, seems a tad on the low side for a hi-comp V8.

I am currently in the process of trying to get the money I paid for this truck refunded. I appreciate your input as it seconds the advice of another friend who had the same issue on one of his vehicles. I figured if I am stuck with keeping and repairing this rover, that I would try that first as I can do it without removing the heads and the parts are so inexpensive. If that didn't correct the issue, then I would go for the rings and consequently a rebuild.

As for the compression, thats a good question. It was as high as the compression would go on the first crank. I did crank it a second time on one cylinder and saw it go above 150. Since I was already 4 or 5 cylinders into the test, I re tested with one crank and finished with one crank on the rest of them to give as accurate of comparison as I could.

one crank = turned the key for 2-3 seconds then turned it off and took the reading.


Edit: I already purchased new NGK plugs. Should I return them and exchange for champions or am I fine with NGK's?

 

[wolf]

Yeah - doing a one man compression test is tough without a fancy starter switch in the engine bay area (jumping in and out of the driver's seat to catch that optimal compression figure is a real pain because you ae never quite certain where you caught the needle on the guage).

Yes, I have used NGK to good effect in my Disco I but went even fancier with those Denso's. But if you get any issues go back to a good set of manual reccomended Champions.

I am currently in the process of trying to get the money I paid for this truck refunded. I appreciate your input as it seconds the advice of another friend who had the same issue on one of his vehicles. I figured if I am stuck with keeping and repairing this rover, that I would try that first as I can do it without removing the heads and the parts are so inexpensive. If that didn't correct the issue, then I would go for the rings and consequently a rebuild.

As for the compression, thats a good question. It was as high as the compression would go on the first crank. I did crank it a second time on one cylinder and saw it go above 150. Since I was already 4 or 5 cylinders into the test, I re tested with one crank and finished with one crank on the rest of them to give as accurate of comparison as I could.

one crank = turned the key for 2-3 seconds then turned it off and took the reading.


Edit: I already purchased new NGK plugs. Should I return them and exchange for champions or am I fine with NGK's?

 

[Wimperdink]

Well I didn't follow through on trying to recoup the money for this rover so its going to be up to me to rebuild it.

Does anyone know of a comprehensive list of parts that I need to buy before I get started? Do they sell a rebuild kit with everything or do I need to source the individual parts on my own?