isn't 12.26 low for resting voltage? Full charge should be 12.6, or was that a typo?
How-To DIY: Replacing LR4 fuel system low pressure sensor
- Thread starter gsxr
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
rubbndubbn
Member
Yes 12.6 is a healthier battery for sure but from my minimal mechanical knowledge I was under the impression anything about 12 should be "good" enough to start and run a vehicle. I guess how I take it is that my current issue Im working on I dont think is battery related even though these vehicles are very battery hungry.
Now I could be wrong and maybe I should go get a new battery... open to opinions on that. I did start a new thread as I feel bad stealing gsxr's thread.
gsxr
Full Access Member
Measured at the battery with a good multimeter, when fully charged the battery should be close to 12.6 volts after sitting overnight, with no load applied (ignition OFF).
The instrument cluster display and/or GAP IID may show slightly less due to voltage drop through the various electrical systems - AND, with the ignition on the battery is under load and will always display <12.6v.
Either way, >12V reported should generally be fine. Don't replace the battery without getting it tested first, most FLAPS/McParts stores will test it free (hoping it's bad, so they can sell you a new one).
Found your new thread (here) and will follow that one!
The instrument cluster display and/or GAP IID may show slightly less due to voltage drop through the various electrical systems - AND, with the ignition on the battery is under load and will always display <12.6v.
Either way, >12V reported should generally be fine. Don't replace the battery without getting it tested first, most FLAPS/McParts stores will test it free (hoping it's bad, so they can sell you a new one).
Found your new thread (here) and will follow that one!
Land Rover Joe
Full Access Member
Thanks for the thread @gsxr!
What was the problem you were trying to solve with replacing this sensor?
I have some fuel system issues myself and attempting to narrow things down....
What was the problem you were trying to solve with replacing this sensor?
I have some fuel system issues myself and attempting to narrow things down....
srobel
Member
Late last year I was getting a CEL with code for fuel pressure sensor, so I bought a new sensor. I noticed that the light came on only upon starting the engine. Clearing the code and driving, the code did not return until the next time I started the engine. Coincidentally, as my battery was now going on 6 y/o and I did not want to stranded, I replaced it. Suddenly my CEL no longer came on and this is now over 10 months later. Moral of the story: voltage issues such as those with a weak battery can cause many sensor false warnings, as noted elsewhere.
benthx
New Member
Hello, (first time I post)
First, thank you to the OP. Great write up! I ordered the same part and have not road test the car (EDIT: test road done-> succes!!! No CEL) yet but at the least, I was succesfull to change the sensor.
My LR4 is a 2015 so the Low Fuel Pressure Sensor is located in a different place, near the gas tank (the flip side: there is much more space to work on in that new location).
Here are some info:
1/ See ITEM 20 in the Diagram (from the MY 2014 manual). If you have a 2014-2015-2016, this is where to look (I am not sure of the cut off date, 2013? 2012?).
2/ At the front of the tank, remove the shield (held by two screws (10mm)).
Now the "manifold" with the LFP sensor (top left) is accesible. You can easily disconnect the sensor cable (insert a small flat screw driver to pull the tab up).
3/ Access to the quick connect is tight but feasible (so no need to use a wrench to remove the sensor from the quick connect as in the OP (yet)).
Swedge your best "L shape pick" to push on the tab from behind (so pulling towards you with the pick) on the quick fitting connector. The rubber protection (on the quick connect fitting) can be slided up for better feeling.
In the picture below, the rubber ring (but you can see with (left connection) and without it (right connection)) is not pulled up (see second picture below, sorry couldn't take a nicer picture with my phone).
4/ With a 17mm and 24mm, you can now swap the new sensor on the male fitting (as in the original post).
5/ Install back everything
PS: yes I need to wash my LR4 ahah
Ben
First, thank you to the OP. Great write up! I ordered the same part and have not road test the car (EDIT: test road done-> succes!!! No CEL) yet but at the least, I was succesfull to change the sensor.
My LR4 is a 2015 so the Low Fuel Pressure Sensor is located in a different place, near the gas tank (the flip side: there is much more space to work on in that new location).
Here are some info:
1/ See ITEM 20 in the Diagram (from the MY 2014 manual). If you have a 2014-2015-2016, this is where to look (I am not sure of the cut off date, 2013? 2012?).
2/ At the front of the tank, remove the shield (held by two screws (10mm)).
Now the "manifold" with the LFP sensor (top left) is accesible. You can easily disconnect the sensor cable (insert a small flat screw driver to pull the tab up).
3/ Access to the quick connect is tight but feasible (so no need to use a wrench to remove the sensor from the quick connect as in the OP (yet)).
Swedge your best "L shape pick" to push on the tab from behind (so pulling towards you with the pick) on the quick fitting connector. The rubber protection (on the quick connect fitting) can be slided up for better feeling.
In the picture below, the rubber ring (but you can see with (left connection) and without it (right connection)) is not pulled up (see second picture below, sorry couldn't take a nicer picture with my phone).
4/ With a 17mm and 24mm, you can now swap the new sensor on the male fitting (as in the original post).
5/ Install back everything
PS: yes I need to wash my LR4 ahah
Ben
Last edited:
benthx
New Member
CEL was still her.
Later, after a few hundreds miles, I got a P008A-07 (Low Fuel pressure - pressure too low- Mechanical failure), so I knew definitely it was the fuel pump...
New Low Pressure Fuel Pump in (the tank), CEL gone.
Well another code came up (Small Evap Leak) because I did not properly plug the vent line to the tank, so I had to drop the fuel tank again and plug it back...
Later, after a few hundreds miles, I got a P008A-07 (Low Fuel pressure - pressure too low- Mechanical failure), so I knew definitely it was the fuel pump...
New Low Pressure Fuel Pump in (the tank), CEL gone.
Well another code came up (Small Evap Leak) because I did not properly plug the vent line to the tank, so I had to drop the fuel tank again and plug it back...
