Let's try to get the facts down on tensioner issues

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Quijote

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Wasn't the revision to the guides to put a hardened steel insert into them where the tensioner pin makes contact?

I guess I'll know on Monday when my parts arrive.

That is correct. There is a video showing the old and new. My understanding was that that was the "2013" change.
 

Cthehentz

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So this morning I took the wife RR in for A/C repair and oil change, when I called to see if it was ready the manger said oh the timing chain is no where near ready for pick up so I laughed and no the A/C repair RR. Turns out its a 2015 RR HSE 5.0 super charged with failed timing guide and it jumped time, so much for this only being an issue for the 10'-12' 5.0's.
 

Nechaken

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Beyond the tensioner issue, there's probably an issue with long-duration oil changes and the chain actually stretching as it wears.
 

Quijote

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So this morning I took the wife RR in for A/C repair and oil change, when I called to see if it was ready the manger said oh the timing chain is no where near ready for pick up so I laughed and no the A/C repair RR. Turns out its a 2015 RR HSE 5.0 super charged with failed timing guide and it jumped time, so much for this only being an issue for the 10'-12' 5.0's.

Ouch. The thing is, you have to imagine that chain was making a racket and it was ignored. Maybe I am being hopeful but the warning signs some people are oblivious to never stop amazing me.
 
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1. Model year - 2012 5.0 NA
2. Known oil change history - every 15k on the dot until 49k, then every 5k (basically after I bought the car).
3. Type and extent of issue (engine failure, CEL, noise) - (@67k miles) Rattling on cold startup. Sounded like a diesel. Repair cost $5500, balls on tensioner rails were worn dramatically. Engine is very quiet now. I kept all the old parts.

LRNA told me to pound sand. The first oil change was done at a dealer, and then sold. I was told by LRNA all service records are expunged when a used LR is sold by a dealer.
 

Scott m Schiavone

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I’m no expert by any means but wasn’t there a fix for the 2013 5.0 engines with the upgraded tensioners and guides?
 

Gareth Tomlinson

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2012 LR4, bought at 36k miles, had to replace tensioners and chain at 80K this year, the engine had become noisy; hadn't caused any problems, but the extended warranty covered the work and was about to expire...
I change oil at 4k miles, by the way. Pessimist.
 

gvpilot

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My understanding is that this is an issue with Gas Direct Injection engines. There's information online about them so I won't go into it here.
GDI engines carbon up behind the valves because the injection is directly into the cylinder after the valves. The very fine mist that gives the GDI's their increased power and fuel mileage also causes soot which gets by the rings and into the oil. It is this soot that blocked the passages in the tensioners causing them to stick leading to the attendant problems with loose chains. My reading led me to believing that by 2013 JLR was on the 3rd revision of the tensioners. I don't know if this issue has been fully resolved. I sold my car partly because of it.
As I understand, JLR had a contract with Castrol for a very specific version of oil that was noted in a leaflet in the owner's manual, NOT the oil specified in the manual itself. The local JLR store was using the wrong version and eventually went to another Castrol supplier to get the correct version. At the time, not even Amsoil had a recommendation for a comparable oil. I believe they do now.
My personal opinion and I am only a DIY'er, is that I won't buy any GDI car, especially a turbo'ed one. Explained this GDI situation to a friend before he bought a new truck with a turbo GDI and he didn't listen. 2 years later he was faced with a $3000 bill for chains, tensioners, guides, etc. and decided to buy another vehicle entirely.
From my reading on the subject, there is no solution to this problem for any GDI engine. They are even adding injectors to the intake manifolds again, port injection, to keep the backsides of the valves clean. But, that doesn't stop the soot blow-by at the rings. I've been an Amsoil dealer for personal use only since ~1974. If I were to take the chance again, and I don't plan to, I'd run the recommended Amsoil product at very reduced oil change intervals. But, this is personal opinion based on my using Amsoil in everything I've owned for 36 years. That's at least 36 cars or more for me. Yes, I'm afflicted....
Hope some of this helps.
 

DirtyHal

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My understanding is that this is an issue with Gas Direct Injection engines. There's information online about them so I won't go into it here.
GDI engines carbon up behind the valves because the injection is directly into the cylinder after the valves. The very fine mist that gives the GDI's their increased power and fuel mileage also causes soot which gets by the rings and into the oil. It is this soot that blocked the passages in the tensioners causing them to stick leading to the attendant problems with loose chains. My reading led me to believing that by 2013 JLR was on the 3rd revision of the tensioners. I don't know if this issue has been fully resolved. I sold my car partly because of it.
As I understand, JLR had a contract with Castrol for a very specific version of oil that was noted in a leaflet in the owner's manual, NOT the oil specified in the manual itself. The local JLR store was using the wrong version and eventually went to another Castrol supplier to get the correct version. At the time, not even Amsoil had a recommendation for a comparable oil. I believe they do now.
My personal opinion and I am only a DIY'er, is that I won't buy any GDI car, especially a turbo'ed one. Explained this GDI situation to a friend before he bought a new truck with a turbo GDI and he didn't listen. 2 years later he was faced with a $3000 bill for chains, tensioners, guides, etc. and decided to buy another vehicle entirely.
From my reading on the subject, there is no solution to this problem for any GDI engine. They are even adding injectors to the intake manifolds again, port injection, to keep the backsides of the valves clean. But, that doesn't stop the soot blow-by at the rings. I've been an Amsoil dealer for personal use only since ~1974. If I were to take the chance again, and I don't plan to, I'd run the recommended Amsoil product at very reduced oil change intervals. But, this is personal opinion based on my using Amsoil in everything I've owned for 36 years. That's at least 36 cars or more for me. Yes, I'm afflicted....
Hope some of this helps.


That's really interesting, a quick google search revealed a few correlating articles such as this study: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0301679X15000432

If that is the case then you would think that an oil flush product like this: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/pro-line-engine-flush-500ml-can-liqui-moly-lm2037 would be very beneficial for removing soot and buildup from the lubricating passages at the guides.
 

kenk

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There was also a class action lawsuit filed against 2012 - 2014 model years.

JAGUAR LAND ROVER TIMING CHAIN LAWSUIT SAYS ENGINES FAIL

Don't know the status of this lawsuit. Interesting that the law suit does not include engines prior to 2012 model year? What changed?

Is the 2010-2013 problem with timing chains an internet myth? The lawsuit doesn't cover the supposed "bad" years 2010 and 2011 and includes both pre- and post-tensioner fix years. The fix itself in 2013 implies there could have been a problem but the lawsuit contradicts that. I have a 2010 LR4 (112k no issues) and the Land Rover mechanic I go to does not see any more frequent failures with 2010-2012 LR4s than other models. Don't most manufacturers recommend changing the timing chain around 100k-120k, the LR4 at 150k? It seems that Land Rovers have a high failure rate of many components while still relatively low mile engines, <70k. Is it the high cost of repair that let the timing chain repair grow disproportionately?
 

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