Let's try to get the facts down on tensioner issues

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mpinco

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So as noted there is a new 'kit' for the timing chains/tensionors but that doesn't address WHY the original configuration was susceptible to higher wear rates. I've read and can't find right now that the oil holes become clogged as a secondary outcome of Direct Injection and blow-by.
 

DirtyHal

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So as noted there is a new 'kit' for the timing chains/tensionors but that doesn't address WHY the original configuration was susceptible to higher wear rates. I've read and can't find right now that the oil holes become clogged as a secondary outcome of Direct Injection and blow-by.

That just seems so odd to me, some of the folks having their chains replaced are at a relatively low miles whereas some people never have to have them replaced. You'd think that a high mileage engine would clog regardless of oil change frequency eventually and fail the chains but some folks have 150K + on original parts...

Someone should get ahold of a few sets of the bad guides and have some destructive testing performed. I would be willing to bet that the metal is softer on the "bad" guides causing them to fail prematurely. Hence the new "hardened steel" inserts and going to 8mm wide chains vs 6.3 on the original design. This overall increase in design strength would allow for them to account for manufacturing variances.

This theory would mean that this is random issue with all of the earlier motors that can't be predicted.
 

TheWidup

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2013 - bought it at 24k and it now has 51k on it. Been doing the 6k oil changes with full synthetic 5w-20 Mobile-1 and purpolator filters. I have a mityvac so it's all topside oil changes. No noise from the chain and this better not jinx it.
 

TheWidup

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That just seems so odd to me, some of the folks having their chains replaced are at a relatively low miles whereas some people never have to have them replaced. You'd think that a high mileage engine

Someone should get ahold of a few sets of the bad guides and have some destructive testing performed. I would be willing to bet that the metal is softer on the "bad" guides causing them to fail prematurely. Hence the new "hardened steel" inserts and going to 8mm wide chains vs 6.3 on the original design. This overall increase in design strength would allow for them to account for manufacturing variances.

This theory would mean that this is random issue with all of the earlier motors that can't be predicted.
I had a 99 Dodge Intrepid that had a tensioner issue and I was the 2nd owner of it. The tensioners wore down and the chain shredded one of them and took that piece through the water pump sprocket and killed the engine entirely...smashed the valves and scarred the pistons. That was due to oil sludging in the system and it not being able to circulate enough oil to keep the guides lubricated which I would bet is the same situation with the LR (or any interference engine for that matter). If you can't keep the chain and guides lubricated they will wear down and eventually fail. Older oil and infrequent changes will lead to failed lubrication. Keeping the changes on cycle that keeps the oil very fluid would be the best way to overcome this issue IMO. I'd almost bet that 15k oil changes were a massive mistake that they just can't bring themselves to admit. Changing the size of the chain is probably just to placate people into thinking it's an improvement.
 

Dave Rocco

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2011 Range Rover Sport and starting making knocking noise the other day. Towed to shop. Timing chain guide needs replacing, Supercharger and water pump. $5500 to repair. My extended warranty (Awful - American Auto Shield) says they wont cover it because there is a TSB on it? What gives? Any ideas on what I should do? Should I try and trade it in or make repairs? This stinks to the high heavens!
 

avslash

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2012 w/ 92K miles. Maybe an occasional chain clatter on a cold start, but no real issue. I might be hearing something else, as well.

I'm about to do them preemptively, however. That is really just because of the known issues, my plan to keep it until it rots in place, and it will make me sleep better at night if I am 25 miles from pavement. Also, I guess because working on that rig is my relaxation and I have a Rover specialist about 4 miles from the house who is good to me. Might pay him for 5 hours of shop time to yank it and put it on a stand for me to work on.

Planning to yank the engine out the front, do the timing chains, guides, accessory chain, walnut blast the valves, water pump, both crossovers, rear main seal, either replace or send the injectors off for rebuilding, add an oil catch can and any other sundry items I stumble along in there, as well as give it a good cleaning. Hoping that will set her up for another 150K miles or so.

Other than the air struts and compressor, pretty much every consumable item will have been done on the rig at that point.

ETA: Debating replacing the cam sprockets and oil pump while it is opened up since those cannot be accessed without breaking it down again. Interested if anyone has any thoughts on those.
 

Cthehentz

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I am the second owner of my 2011, per carfax some minor stuff replaced like water pump and cooling fan, driver side door squeak and 15k oil changes on time (not good).

At 100k I started to hear clanking from driver side, not at cold start but after a short drive, (NO CODES) and the driver side chain was tight only by me checking through the oil fill, so I had all timing and cooling components replaced, the passenger side tensioner was loose and did not hold tension. Six months later started to notice smoke at start up, valve seal was leaking and machine shop found a few broken/cracked valve guides. Now the LR4 has loads of power and ZERO noise, no injector noise nothing. Per the mechanic the tensioner pin is hardened steel or stainless and the guid is aluminum that allows it to wear deeper then the tensioner can adjust for.
 

avslash

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Wasn't the revision to the guides to put a hardened steel insert into them where the tensioner pin makes contact?

I guess I'll know on Monday when my parts arrive.
 

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