Lr4 Brakes
- Thread starter daveny
- Start date
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Quijote
Full Access Member
I replaced my front pads last night at 5 years and 33k miles and the sensor had not yet gone off. I probably had a bit under an 1/8" of an inch on all 4 front pads. I did the rear pads two years ago at around 23k miles. Still on original rotors that seem on pace to give me at least two pads worth. For me, that will likely mean another 3 years before the rear pads need to be done again. At that point I'll do a full rotor+pads job on the whole car.
Oh, also, my front sliding pins were in immaculate condition. Perfectly lubed and I could slide the whole assembly by hand easily.
EDIT: Corrected the date and mileage of rear pad replacement.
Oh, also, my front sliding pins were in immaculate condition. Perfectly lubed and I could slide the whole assembly by hand easily.
EDIT: Corrected the date and mileage of rear pad replacement.
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Quijote
Full Access Member
I'm in greater Boston in a somewhat hilly area. But 20% of our miles are long trips, so hardly any breaking there.
Quijote
Full Access Member
I just got lucky on that one, I guess. I had even bought the best lube I could find (3M clear silicone paste) in anticipation of the work. But I pulled one out and had to simply put it back in since it looked perfect and they all felt great. I did not want to needlessly expose them to contamination. I have no explanation for that one.
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Posting in this thread as I believe it's probably the most comprehensive thread on brakes for the LR4. (Heck, the first post is in 2011.)
I changed my front rotors and pads back in April, about 3,000 miles ago. I had been running OEM Land Rover rotors and Hawk pads. I used Hawk pads again, but used Brembo rotors as I believe Brembo makes the OEM brake rotor and the cost was decently less.
After 3,000 miles, I think I can firmly say that, while Brembo may make the OEM brake rotors, I don't believe the "Brembo" branded rotor is the exact same rotor as the one stamped "Land Rover." Just not near the same bite, and it also seemed to not gel well with the Hawk brake pads. Over the last month or so I had developed an annoying squeal on light braking. I tried to bed in the brakes again, which would only work for a day or so and then the squeal would return.
So, today I swapped in a new set of Land Rover rotors. Still running Hawk pads. After a test drive to bed them in, I honestly feel like they are somehow superior. I believe the Land Rover rotors are a softer metal, so I'm guessing maybe the "Land Rover" version is a softer steel than the "Brembo" version? Regardless, I had run the Land Rover front rotors and Hawk pads for over 45,000 miles before I swapped them in April, which is plenty good enough for me.
I changed my front rotors and pads back in April, about 3,000 miles ago. I had been running OEM Land Rover rotors and Hawk pads. I used Hawk pads again, but used Brembo rotors as I believe Brembo makes the OEM brake rotor and the cost was decently less.
After 3,000 miles, I think I can firmly say that, while Brembo may make the OEM brake rotors, I don't believe the "Brembo" branded rotor is the exact same rotor as the one stamped "Land Rover." Just not near the same bite, and it also seemed to not gel well with the Hawk brake pads. Over the last month or so I had developed an annoying squeal on light braking. I tried to bed in the brakes again, which would only work for a day or so and then the squeal would return.
So, today I swapped in a new set of Land Rover rotors. Still running Hawk pads. After a test drive to bed them in, I honestly feel like they are somehow superior. I believe the Land Rover rotors are a softer metal, so I'm guessing maybe the "Land Rover" version is a softer steel than the "Brembo" version? Regardless, I had run the Land Rover front rotors and Hawk pads for over 45,000 miles before I swapped them in April, which is plenty good enough for me.
f1racer328
Full Access Member
That's good to know.
So I have 77,000 miles on the OEM brake rotors... I know, that's a lot and they are probably out of spec. They have only recently started to have a slight vibration while braking at higher speeds and lower brake pressures.
I've replaced the rear brake pads twice, and the front pads once.
Needless to say I'm happy with them, and I was planning on putting the Brembos on since Brembo is stamped on the OE rotors... I guess I need to reevaluate that then.
So here's another vote for OEM rotors. I've always run Ferodo pads.
Ferodo are supposed to be the OEM pad, so you should be good there.
When I did my front brakes in April, the Land Rover-stamped rotors had about 45,000 miles on them. I installed those in October 2018. Although they had some wear, they may have been able to keep being used if not for the fact that they were pretty rusty in the hub portion. This further tells me they use a softer metallurgy, because the rest of my vehicle isn't that rusty.
I did notice that the new Land Rover rotors I installed last night were painted in spots. Particularly, the hub and the heat-dissipating fins on the edge. I don't believe the last set I installed in 2018 were painted anywhere. So that may be something new that Land Rover has specified since 2018.
By the way, finally springing for a Milwaukee impact makes this job relatively breezy.
When I did my front brakes in April, the Land Rover-stamped rotors had about 45,000 miles on them. I installed those in October 2018. Although they had some wear, they may have been able to keep being used if not for the fact that they were pretty rusty in the hub portion. This further tells me they use a softer metallurgy, because the rest of my vehicle isn't that rusty.
I did notice that the new Land Rover rotors I installed last night were painted in spots. Particularly, the hub and the heat-dissipating fins on the edge. I don't believe the last set I installed in 2018 were painted anywhere. So that may be something new that Land Rover has specified since 2018.
By the way, finally springing for a Milwaukee impact makes this job relatively breezy.
powershift
Full Access Member
It could be heat paint. You can put a special paint (or whatever) on rotors and determine the max temperature by the color changes. Not sure if that is what you have going on there.
