LT 285/65/18 Cooper Discoverer STT pro all terrain

[jwest]

C.
So, part by part: yes of course, larger tires are a tire 'lift' but nobody ever calls larger tires a 'lift'. Usually to get much bigger tires, the actual lift is required first, like when you see a bigg truck on 37's or a Disco 2 on 35's, they have multiple inch lifts by way of springs and a bunch of other required crap lengthened and reworked.

So, here's the thing about tire size on lr3/4 rrs, and my beef with Mr. AH Rod claiming rods are required for tires above a certain size. It's not true in that upon lowering to bump stops, the larger tire will become now stuck up into the fender liner. To me, that, is, not, a lift... and is not a solution to allow larger tires.

Cutting away the crap that tires contact allows larger tires, FULLY functional, without any rods. It is in fact the nicest mod for an LR3/4 RRS in that you make some annoying yet simple changes, then 32" tires fit 100% in all circumstances including 100% loss of air and full drop to access for getting around in parking garages. No, it's not a lift but it's at least 90% as good because it results in 1" more ground clearance while losing none of the factory handling and safety features or the sweet ability to still crawl into the shortest garages.

So, bigger tire is not a lift in anyone's lingo I've ever heard but call it whatever works for you. No offense meant!

 

[jwest]

D. "lift kit" "lifted". I have never heard anyone say a stock factory vehicle is lifted, unless of course it has a factory installed lift kit LOL To say an lr3 is lifted though is to then be comparing it to what, not itself obviously if all of them are already lifted by way of the height lever/button...

 

[jwest]

E. IIDtool or other interfaces. I have that one and LLams. Both intervene and push more than what the factory lever allows. Yet, they cannot induce a height really any higher than if you place a block under the sill when in high mode, then lower, which causes the system to freak out, and raise more into extended mode. You don't need either tool to cause that, but they make it easier.

Therefor, neither electronic tool really provide any more lift than the vehicle can access on it's own given the right circumstances. For example if you cross axle or ground out the center or a sill on something, the system senses the lack of ground pressure into a strut and reacts by extending it more. ... this is the part that matters .... it extends to the max allowed pretty much in the struts.... guess what a strut spacer would provide..... MORE, which is inherently a 'lift'

The iidtool and llams, and matzkers thing and another i forget the name of, all simply provide easier/quicker access to that max factory strut length. We all like that because we can be in the higher zone 'before' the problem 30 feet ahead is contacted, rather than wait for system to freak out, etc. Sometimes all you might need is the slightest extra momentum or at least not losing too much traction by stopping to let the computer consider the circumstances

 

[jwest]

F. ok the confusing part, height sensor arms, rods, and the upper control arms all relative to strut length, etc.

So, I'll start by saying every time I try to say how this goes step by step I get confused or forget what I actually had to do or in what order. I frankly now do not recall what the car will do if the only thing you've done is install strut spacers and turn it all on again. I do know that in order for it all to play together nicely, I put in shorter rods that I made, to the length that compensates exactly for 2" taller ride height in the sensor arm. This is the same length rod if you were just trying to be cure and ad short rods to cause the vehicle to sit higher.

Maybe it's easier for someone to think of it in that process. Add the short rods, it causes 2" higher ride height which is created by extending the strut length to get the sensor arm back to where it was before it was cut short. In my case though I added 2" spacers. But I also went into tight tolerance mode and had all 4 corners reset to spec but + 50mm.

(This puts some of them right up against the allowable range in the computer numbers available.)

You might say that the short rods extend the struts, but then the strut spacer takes out of that the same amount they were extended. Now vehicle sits at +2" but the struts are at exactly +/- 0 neutral which is the ideal riding length for interstates and especially weighted. The lr3/4 handles like crap above there and below there it handles fine but you don't have enough up travel when you hit large undulations in the highway. I tested this at least 30 passes at different amounts like -5 -10mm - 20mm and -20 sucks. +20 feels like way more swaying which is not cool either.

 

[jwest]

G. The spacers provide 2" more ground clearance than anything possible before simply due to the strut maxing out. Right at that max is a bit much for the CV or possibly lower ball joint but I decided not to use my straps and just be careful. The maker of the spacer and straps can more accurately say how much the strap reduces the travel and what the remaining height benefit is after that addition.

I probably should delve into that next spring. Until then I won't be in situations using all that height anyway. Next thing I'm trying is fitting RUD 4x4 snow chains to 32" tires and still having full clearances. We shall see.

 

[jwest]

H. sorry I came off too harsh previously...

 

[m_lars]

F. ok the confusing part
I put in shorter rods that I made

Not confusing at all when you give that vital detail.

The lift argument is ALL semantics.



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[Houm_WA]

Great discussion!

 

[jwest]

Not confusing at all when you give that vital detail.

The lift argument is ALL semantics.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

LOL that detail has been there all along.

If you don't use the rods to bring the sensor arms into middle of their happy zone, then you get errors.

So adding physical parts that literally add height is ALL semantics to you and it's also the same as a magician tricking you into seeing it higher? OK whatever.

 

[m_lars]

LOL that detail has been there all along.

If you don't use the rods to bring the sensor arms into middle of their happy zone, then you get errors.

So adding physical parts that literally add height is ALL semantics to you and it's also the same as a magician tricking you into seeing it higher? OK whatever.

I'm sorry I missed that detail in your condescending rants... I went back, it's there. I missed it. I'm sorry. It was my mistake.

Look, it's a stupid argument and I don't know why I've participated so long. You win. My point has been that the LR3 is unique to "industry standards", in that it can be manipulated unlike virtually any other off road vehicle. Only the C5 Allroad comes to mind as a comparable suspension system, although I hear the new grand cherokee may have air suspension now or in the future. I'm sure there are others too, but none come to mind. I have mine set at +1". I did it so it doesn't look goofy with bigger tires. You don't approve, i get it. It's not your vehicle.

But I already conceded that argument.

I will stop calling it lifted. It will forever be referred to as "ground clearance increased".

I'm sure you will find some other reason to call me a ******* even though I concede the argument, so have at it...