All is lost?

[expedio2005]

Too many things going on here.
Firstly, “routed the belt correctly”??
Secondly, “rattling noise”??
Thirdly, “black coolant”, “down 2 qts”??
Fourthly, if there is oil in the coolant, what’s in the oil?
Fifth, “battery low”.
Lastly, where are the codes?

I’ll say it; Perhaps you took on more than you should have.
But this would be the order I would have it looked at.

Ok, I admit I was freaking out a bit after getting home from my drive last weekend and lots of possibilities were going through my head so I was spitballing. I checked a 4th time today that the belts were routed correctly, and they are. I did not have a light (it was dark out) when looking at the coolant reservoir after getting home and having my vehicle die in my driveway thus I couldn't properly see the color of the coolant in the tank. The pink coolant (LR4 specific) that I bought apparently isn't as vibrant when viewing through the semi-transparent white plastic reservoir. Dunno what the rattling was but sounded like dice being shaken in a plastic cup. As stated in my original post, there were no engine related codes. I have a known code for a faulty door lock and rear passenger video screen. The other new electronic related codes I had have gone away since I bought a new battery.

 

[expedio2005]

Hey, a lot to chew on for sure.
You may have multiple things going on there.
I had some of those issues after replacing lung my crossover pipes.
Believe it or not. I too a day or two later started having issues with idling and black smoke.
Codes were coming back as upper oxygen sensors. After replacing the problem persisted and the engine light kept coming back on. I also, had a weird noise as well coming out the engine that I had never heard before. Kinda sounded like a horn but not in a high pitch.
after going through the engine to see where that sound was coming from, I realized it was the PCV valve covers. I had an air vacuum leak.
I can’t believe something so small and simple could make my car feel like it was going to blow my engine.

Bought the covers on Amazon ($20)
And installed in 5min.
I’m not sure about your rattling and darker coolant.
Did you use two color types of coolant?
I would start by replacing the battery. You shouldn’t check anything else until you know for sure your battery is working properly.

So, I did replace the PCV valve and cover... maybe that was the source of the noise. I'll keep an ear open for it again and verify it's sealed properly, thanks for suggesting this.
I think the dark coolant was really because the pink coolant I used (LR4 coolant from Autozone) isn't quite as vibrant as OEM coolant.
So far, my new battery has eliminated most of my codes. The remaining codes are known and aren't a priority at the moment but not engine related.

I appreciate you taking the time to make constructive comments and suggestions.

 

[jlglr4]

On your question re thermostat, my understanding from past research is that the V6 engine seems to run a thermostat that opens at around 204-207 and is not fully open until 228, whereas I believe the older V8 models ran a thermostat that opened around 180F or 190F and was fully open around 203F. But under normal operation, your temp should stabilize before its fully open.

 

[expedio2005]

On your question re thermostat, my understanding from past research is that the V6 engine seems to run a thermostat that opens at around 204-207 and is not fully open until 228, whereas I believe the older V8 models ran a thermostat that opened around 180F or 190F and was fully open around 203F. But under normal operation, your temp should stabilize before its fully open.

Thank you for this! I'm still a bit gun shy after last weekend. I was sitting in my vehicle for about 10 minutes watching the temps on my GAP tool and it hovered around 194 so I revved the engine to 3k rpm for a short time and saw the temp drop to 192 while the second temp reading (radiator?) went from 57 to 59. Then I let it idle and the temp kept climbing to 200 when I shut it off fearing the thermostat may have been stuck shut. For some reason my LR4 makes me nervous to work on... I miss my 2003 discovery 2 some days, it was so much more simple. LOL

 

[16FujiDisco]

Dice sound could be your supercharger coupler if you still have the original spring version. Take the belt off the SC pulley and twist it back and forth; see if that ticking sound is the same you heard.

 

[expedio2005]

Dice sound could be your supercharger coupler if you still have the original spring version. Take the belt off the SC pulley and twist it back and forth; see if that ticking sound is the same you heard.

Thank you, I had thought the same thing. I was initially worried the nylon coupler I installed had shattered but after a new battery and a bit more antifreeze, she runs very well with no noise now. I can't explain the dice sound but the supercharger appears to be working very well.

 

[expedio2005]

On your question re thermostat, my understanding from past research is that the V6 engine seems to run a thermostat that opens at around 204-207 and is not fully open until 228, whereas I believe the older V8 models ran a thermostat that opened around 180F or 190F and was fully open around 203F. But under normal operation, your temp should stabilize before its fully open.

So... I took my LR4 for a test run and it seemed the thermostat started to open up after 203 degrees and doesn't get above 204.8. At this temp, I see my second coolant temp start to rise on my GAP tool app so it appears the thermostat is opening and exchanging the hotter coolant with the cooler radiator coolant. Went out for dinner tonight and 204.8 is as hot as it gets so far. I hate to jinx myself but I think I'm in the clear.

 

[expedio2005]

On your question re thermostat, my understanding from past research is that the V6 engine seems to run a thermostat that opens at around 204-207 and is not fully open until 228, whereas I believe the older V8 models ran a thermostat that opened around 180F or 190F and was fully open around 203F. But under normal operation, your temp should stabilize before its fully open.

I've been watching the temps as I'm driving around and it seems the thermostat opens up between 203 and 204.8 and then will stabilize between 199.4 and 201 when driving and go back to 203ish at stop lights. I think I'm in the clear but will be watching coolant levels for the next few drives.