M12 outter tie rod or m14?

[Jimmy Brooks]

I still get a bit of steering wheel wobble at freeway speeds from 73-84mph. It normally starts when turning, but will go away after driving straight for a bit. Even when driving straight some times it will come back aggressive and then fade away to be perfectly still. It’s not enough wobble to make the car dangerous but enough for it to be annoying and a little unsettling. I run tuff ant steelies with nitto ridge grapplers 265/65R18. The tires only have about 7-8k miles on them. Upper control arms, lower control arms sway bar bushings have been replaced. I have to replace one of my sway bar links next oil change I do. No play when shaking at 12&6, 9&3. No grinding from the wheel bearing only the slightest pad grind on each wheel which I’m pretty sure is normal. Before full on suspecting tie rods or wheel bearing I want to make sure the outter tie rods are torqued down properly but I’m not sure if these have the m12 bolts or the m14 bolts. An LR3 post said the m12 tighten to 56 lb-ft but for the m14 you tighten to 111 lb-ft. Just don’t want to over torque and strip the bolt.

 

[ryanjl]

Won't you know what size they are when you are torquing them?

 

[Jimmy Brooks]

Just corrected myself, meant to say m12 or m14 not 12mm or 14mm. M12 and m14 refer to thread spacing and depth. I don’t think you can tell by the actual size of the nut while it’s on the car

 

[ftillier]

Can you get a caliper on the threaded part that sticks up above the nut?

 

[Jimmy Brooks]

Don’t have a caliper so I improvised a bit, I took an ajustable wrench and tightened it till it was snug with the threaded piece above the nut then I measured it and it came out as 12mm. pretty sure that makes the nut an M12 nut. Thanks for the idea!!

 

[Jimmy Brooks]

As I was pulling off the wheel I didn’t really notice play however when I spun the wheel I heard the faint noise of little pebble rocks hitting the ground. I could hear it on both the drivers side and the passager side. That would mean bad wheel bearing right? I never hear grinding or loud noises though when driving. But if the bearing is bad I’m guessing that’s most likely why I feel the shimmy that comes and goes at high speed. My tie rods don’t have any play nor do they make noise when I throw them side to side back and forth.



Update, put some real force into it and my driver side front wheel has a little clicking sensation at 12 o’clock. Considering upper control arms were just done and my lower control arms look good and don’t show much wear 40k miles in im almost certain it’s a wheel bearing. Anyone have a preference on which company to get the hub assembly from?

 

[ryanjl]

Timken hubs. Get them from whoever is cheapest. Rockauto has good prices. Amazon has them too. Some people have complained on Amazon that they received counterfeit Timkens, but looking at the photos those people have posted, my guess is they got a "return" from some other customer who scammed Amazon into refunding the Timken price for a cheaper hub assembly because the differences in the pictures of the hub that they posted and what a Timken looks like are obvious. I got mine from Amazon a few years ago and they're still sitting on my shelf waiting to be installed.

Home many miles on yours again?

Make sure you buy a new hub nut, too.

 

[Jimmy Brooks]

Timken hubs. Get them from whoever is cheapest. Rockauto has good prices. Amazon has them too. Some people have complained on Amazon that they received counterfeit Timkens, but looking at the photos those people have posted, my guess is they got a "return" from some other customer who scammed Amazon into refunding the Timken price for a cheaper hub assembly because the differences in the pictures of the hub that they posted and what a Timken looks like are obvious. I got mine from Amazon a few years ago and they're still sitting on my shelf waiting to be installed.

Home many miles on yours again?

Make sure you buy a new hub nut, too.

I’ve got about 143K on the stock ones. It’s gotten to the point where it’ll pull unexpectedly to the left or right when the concrete slabs on the freeway shift lanes. (If that’s makes sense) the cheapest I could find as of now are on Atlantic British, I’ll check rock auto right now.

 

[Jimmy Brooks]

Timken hubs. Get them from whoever is cheapest. Rockauto has good prices. Amazon has them too. Some people have complained on Amazon that they received counterfeit Timkens, but looking at the photos those people have posted, my guess is they got a "return" from some other customer who scammed Amazon into refunding the Timken price for a cheaper hub assembly because the differences in the pictures of the hub that they posted and what a Timken looks like are obvious. I got mine from Amazon a few years ago and they're still sitting on my shelf waiting to be installed.

Home many miles on yours again?

Make sure you buy a new hub nut, too.

Would you think these are real? It seems a little too good to be true.

TIMKEN Front Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly Set For 2010-16 Land Rover LR4 5 Lugs | eBay

(2) TIMKEN Front Wheel Hub and Bearing Assembly - HA500601. LAND ROVER. Wheel Hub Assembly. RANGE ROVER SPORT. 2010 - 2016. All Models. 2006 - 2013.

www.ebay.com

 

[ryanjl]

Those pictures look legit, but I have a hard time believing those are legit for those prices. Unless that is just for one hub.

These are the ones I bought: https://www.amazon.com/Timken-HA500...9b-a1e639bc9340&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_atf_m