Mass Air Flow Sensor

[kmatt]

The engine starts fine; however, it runs a bit rough when shifting and the exhaust has a noticeable smell to it.

 

[beemer]

Sorry Mike I wasn't keeping on the straight track like the Rover Techs think, replace as a unit until finally a part fixes the problem then the owner just pays the big repair bill. This was why one 'ex Rover trained mechanic I know went off and opened his own Rover repair business. He does off road vehicles as well full on race engines. He hated seeing people get screwed by the Stealers.
When people say no I want a proven reason why instead of throwing money at new parts.

kamett; it sounds like your running way too rich, this if you keep driving it will destroy your cats then your out more money with cat replacements. Have you checked the throttle position sensor with a meter?
MASS flow meter voltage readings?

Well i've done enough to **** off the Pope, i'll keep my Rover findings and mods to myself and my local Rover friends seeking power for added fun.

 

[Disco Mike]

The engine starts fine; however, it runs a bit rough when shifting and the exhaust has a noticeable smell to it.

If your exhaust smell different and you are actually having 3rd. or 4th. gear shift issues then it is safe to say your MAF is failing. If you give it some time you will probably also throw either a 734 or 733 code indicating a 3rd. or 4th . gear shift problem.
Make sure when replacing a MAF that you get one that is boxed in a Rover box, no after market or generic Bosch MAF's cause they can throw codes when brand new.

 

[beemer]

For $22.50 I gambled on a couple MASS meters from Pick N Pull, one did have a failure off
a 94, the 95 unit was good. Went back a week later and went thru the Vin numbers on line and found out it had failed the smog test and marked as a gross polluter and I bet only a MASS meter failure could of been the reason why it was junked out. I would check first with the many used Rover parts suppliers in the US vs paying OEM new prices again that's just me vs a open wallet and pay person.

 

[greg409]

Kmatt's got a DII, as does Mike, it's a different animal & way less forgiving than a DI

between my (2), I've cleaned (4)mafs (2 of them spares) and not had problems for years

DII's do not like maf cleaning

luck,greg

 

[beemer]

A friend of mine with a 94 used electrical tuner cleaner he had handy that has a lubricant which stayed behind for lubing the carbon track of pots, this did totally destroy his MASS meters function. Maybe another cleaner may save it. I've been told to use Berryman B12 carb cleaner if the special MASS meter spray isn't available. My question what about Brake Clean? I have two more spare meters I would like to test first then reset the voltage per RPI's Tornado tune specs and give it a go. The last spare I changed the voltage on would randomly mentally snap then idle sloppy rich at random times be it 3 miles or 200 miles of good running between these attacks then bam again fouling plugs sloppy rich. This one may a goner and turned into a donor open heart surgery candidate. I've had no problem with the 4.6 MASS meter I run after the smog test swap vs the original undersize 3.9 MASS meter. The 4.6 motor doesn't run as hard off the 3.9 unit especially after increasing the trumpets by 2 mm in diameter as well opened up the intake to match. This gave me 10.77% more cross sectional intake trumpet area to the head ports which are opened up also.

 

[BeemerNut]

I don't want to step on other toes, but it is rare, no mater what cleaner or techniques is used, that a new Bosch MAF will take a cleaning without killing it.
As for you ideas around 2 different set ups, don't waste your time trying. Our 50 year old engine can't put out much more power and with the current ECU's, they won't let you try and second guess them.
If you want to do anything, since you sure don't need any more horse power off road, work on improving what you have.

 

[BeemerNut]

I don't want to step on other toes, but it is rare, no mater what cleaner or techniques is used, that a new Bosch MAF will take a cleaning without killing it.
As for you ideas around 2 different set ups, don't waste your time trying. Our 50 year old engine can't put out much more power and with the current ECU's, they won't let you try and second guess them.
If you want to do anything, since you sure don't need any more horse power off road, work on improving what you have.

Sorry I haven't been on this forum for several years and missed "Disco Mikes" reply above.
I would of replied if I followed this old thread years ago.
For one thing I have had 95% success spray cleaning LR Mass Flow Meters, only failures were Mass Meters that had mechanical damage (screwdriver or stiff wire poking damage) to the sensors themselves. A couple short blasts only with cleaner then leave it alone.
Rover's "50 year old engines", there is a vast amount of engine power and torque gains to be found with any 3.9, 4.0 or 4.6 LR engine while maintaining stock valve diameters, cam specs and compression.

These above ugly ports, it gets worse the port misalignment to intake manifold ports.
Plastic toys from China have better QC than Land Rover's production engines.
A lot of performance gains can be had called using basic common sense engine building.
LR "trained mechanics" apply what they were trained to do and not think which is rather basic caveman engine repair or building. Throw parts at it until it runs and charge the customer for unneeded parts and labor time.
Another example LR used 1980's obsolete single squirt Lucas injector design.
Come on up to year 2000 at least with 4 hole 15 degree spray angle injectors.
ECU's what a joke they lean the **** out of these US engines to the tune of overheating, cracking blocks when a aftermarket (Mark Adams) chip properly fuels and still passes Calif. smog with ease.
"sure don't need any more horsepower off road", What a statement that was.
LR horsepower to weight ratio is already too low especially the lack of low rpm torque (3,100) these engines produce.
Torque moves these 4,600 plus pound LR tanks, how fast or lack of fast is controlled by horsepower.
"i'm a retired service manager of 30 years", you must have a very low mechanical ability before, during and after retiring from LR after reading these forum replies.
Did LR brainwash you to go by "the book" with their repair time charts cutting loss vs profit?
At my area I was lucky finding a LR service manager as well two of their real mechanics not just "techs" but real mechanics that understand, build and race LR engines on weekends as my personal friends, we spoke engine. Working with them while under the last two years of 7/100K mile extended warranty coverage.
Fast forward I now read LR members installing 5.7 sbc engines into LR's. Much cheaper also more hp, tq and reliability.
The trick is building a flexible, more horsepower and torque engine that operates at a real practical rpm with factory or almost near factory cam specs, compression and parts.
Anyone can build a hot rod engine with a big cam then there are those that understand engines and improve from their factory flaws. LR sure had, has their share of engine flaws judging by the aftermarket engine rebuilders like RPI, Rimmer Brothers as example.
LR engine the SBC engine of Europe.
The 215 Buick / Olds engine aluminum LR engine still has a large following group, myself included.