Move on or Fix

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Easycool

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My daughter's 2007 RR HSE rear suspension LOWERS to bump stops overnight. So, how can I determine if the compressor or valve block is bad? I know the compressor is under the spare tire in the rear, but where exactly is the valve block for the rear? Any help is greatly appreciated. This is the first time I've owned one of these FORD'S.
 

Easycool

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So, remember5, would you please explain how to do a suspension revalibration? The engine on our 2007 RR HSE, so control arms, ball joints, and CV axle half-shaft replaced. Then I started getting suspension fault during Morning startups.
 

Lr3tx

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Easycool, the compressor should actually be on the frame rail just under the rear driver side door. At least it is on my 2006 LR3 SE. If both the front and back are on the stops then the relay or the compressor is bad. Usually it's the compressor. Here's a great youtube video, in the proper British English even, that is really good showing the removal process.

I'm sure on there also shows where the location of all the components are located. Another great source is Atlantic British for great videos and parts.
 
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scott schmerge

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Hello,

I would love to get your collective opinion on my beloved 2005 LR3. It's now at 170,000 miles with a jerky transmission and dead fuel gauge along with some smaller DIY issues. It's going to be around a $7000 repair bill for transmission and installed new fuel sender units. The truck is obviously worth less- around $5-6K. But structurally and interior wise, it's still pretty good. Will need new tires in a year for $1500, maybe new air compressor for struts in a year or two. Aside from the brakes, anything else that I should be concerned about?
Will the engine last to 250K? or a rebuilt is in the foreseeable future?

Should I look for a newish Discovery or fix this one? Am I being sentimental and not wanting to move on from a truck that has served me well? Thanks.

You may try flushing the transmission and putting dr trannys instant shudder fix in it. It worked like a charm for mine. I had a harsh 2-1 shift and some 3-4 shudder and vibrations at highway speeds under load (uphill). The new fluid and additive made worlds of difference. 95% better. To get it 100% better, I did a mechatronic bridge and seal replacement which should not cost more than $1000ish. I did it myself and pretty easy with no special tools. I definitely would find a reputable transmission shop to give you a second opinion. You are looking for someone that specializes in zf transmissions. Many bmw, Audi, ford, Jaguar have this transmission so will not be too hard to track someone down.

Are you throwing any codes on transmission?
 

Easycool

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So, I want to thank lr3tx for the invaluable information and video. I will look into mine to see if it is similar. I am not sure the compressor is failing since the front suspension is fine.

I didn't notice any valve blocks. I also need to find a hose diagram from/to the compressor and reservoir. I need to locate the reservoir on my RR HSE as well. Maybe I can physically trace the hoses.

Also, I have a diagnostic tool so I can check for any codes related to the suspension. More to follow...
 

Easycool

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Just wanted to mention that I use Atlantic British for many of my parts. I have worked with David Furiari for parts, and Gehart for technical issues. Unfortunately, there are not many videos for the 2007 RR HSE. I have the All Data manual for my vehicle, but there is no suspension hose diagrams. Not a good parts locator either, for that matter.
 

Joeyrc76

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Thanks for the advice on the red suspension light. Mine did the same thing but it was after I installed Johnson rods. Does that seem right?
 

Kjohnster

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I've got a 2006 LR3 SE that just turned 140k miles. It's been great since I got it 2ish years and 20k miles ago - no mechanical issues until last weekend. CEL came on then started blinking when accelerating. Pulled over plugged in my GAP tool and got codes for misfires in 2 cylinders, random misfires, and a misfire within the first 1000 rpm.
The initial diagnosis is I need a valve job - but this is not a Rover mechanic. Does anyone have experience with this problem? And is there a known solution without tearing the engine down or replacing it altogether? This will be heading to a Rover shop soon, but any info is appreciated.
Thank you -
 

Houm_WA

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I'd look at the ignition coils first....and have the spark plugs been changed?
 

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