power steering fluid flush
- Thread starter disc03
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It never hurts to flush any and all fluids as it will keep your vehicle running happy longer.
That should be a auto flush system with the hoses used on Rovers due to leaking with replacements needed all the time. It never has a chance to stay in long enough to get
that burnt hot smell.
I would add a magnet to the reservoir to pick up any worn away metallic
particles vs letting them go round and round doing more wear and damage.
That Bendix box was used by Ford from only 1966 to early 1969 as it was a POS.
Ford saw this and sold the rights to it to Rover, go figure? Ford switched over to a
Saginaw box they used for over a 30 year span and seals are still available.
Go to England to get a Rover steering box rebuild kit they're cheap.
I'm now bone dry with the 95 D1, see how long this lasts?
that burnt hot smell.
I would add a magnet to the reservoir to pick up any worn away metallic
particles vs letting them go round and round doing more wear and damage.
That Bendix box was used by Ford from only 1966 to early 1969 as it was a POS.
Ford saw this and sold the rights to it to Rover, go figure? Ford switched over to a
Saginaw box they used for over a 30 year span and seals are still available.
Go to England to get a Rover steering box rebuild kit they're cheap.
I'm now bone dry with the 95 D1, see how long this lasts?
Disco Mike
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At you mileage, you need to do the full 60K major service, which is it's biggest service, if you plan on keeping the truck current and trouble free.
Here is my list that can all be done on a Saturday while out on the driveway.
1 Oil filter, K&N 3001 or Mobil 1- 301
1 Factory air filter
6 Qts. of engine oil
2 feet of 3/16th vacuum tube
2 feet of 5/16th vacuum tube
12 Qts. of ATF
7 Qts. of 80/90W synthetic gear oil, 85W/140 for HD use
3 Pints of synthetic DOT 4 Brake fluid
2 Qts of synthetic Power steering fluid
2 Gallons of OAT, orange coolant, also called DexCool
1 Bottle of Lucas Power Steering additive
1 Bottle of Lucas Transmission additive
1 Can of Spray Carb. Spray
1 Can Of Brake cleaner
8 Spark Plugs, I use Bosch Platinum Plus 4's
1 Set of Magnacor 8mm plug wires
1 Serpentine belt
2 Bottles of SeaFoam gas additive
1 T/Stat
1 bottle of WaterWetter or Purple Ice
Hoses and belts, as necessary
60,000 Mile Service or Major Service for High Mileage Used Vehicle just purchased
Bleed the brakes
Flush and change the power steering fluid adding one bottle of additive
Service the tranny adding one bottle of additive
Change the coolant and t/stat
Do an engine flush before changing the oil
Do an induction cleaning
Clean the throttle body
Add fuel additive to full gas tank
Change both of the diffs fluid
Change the t/case oil
Replace the plugs and wires
Replace the air filter
Lube all the drive shaft grease fitting including the 2 slip shafts
Do full inspection of brakes, hoses, bushings etc.
Hopefully I didn't leave anything out.
Here is my list that can all be done on a Saturday while out on the driveway.
1 Oil filter, K&N 3001 or Mobil 1- 301
1 Factory air filter
6 Qts. of engine oil
2 feet of 3/16th vacuum tube
2 feet of 5/16th vacuum tube
12 Qts. of ATF
7 Qts. of 80/90W synthetic gear oil, 85W/140 for HD use
3 Pints of synthetic DOT 4 Brake fluid
2 Qts of synthetic Power steering fluid
2 Gallons of OAT, orange coolant, also called DexCool
1 Bottle of Lucas Power Steering additive
1 Bottle of Lucas Transmission additive
1 Can of Spray Carb. Spray
1 Can Of Brake cleaner
8 Spark Plugs, I use Bosch Platinum Plus 4's
1 Set of Magnacor 8mm plug wires
1 Serpentine belt
2 Bottles of SeaFoam gas additive
1 T/Stat
1 bottle of WaterWetter or Purple Ice
Hoses and belts, as necessary
60,000 Mile Service or Major Service for High Mileage Used Vehicle just purchased
Bleed the brakes
Flush and change the power steering fluid adding one bottle of additive
Service the tranny adding one bottle of additive
Change the coolant and t/stat
Do an engine flush before changing the oil
Do an induction cleaning
Clean the throttle body
Add fuel additive to full gas tank
Change both of the diffs fluid
Change the t/case oil
Replace the plugs and wires
Replace the air filter
Lube all the drive shaft grease fitting including the 2 slip shafts
Do full inspection of brakes, hoses, bushings etc.
Hopefully I didn't leave anything out.
Wow I lube every suspension joint, tie rod, ball joint, driveshaft U joint, drive shaft splines sway bar "dog bones" at every other oil change or 5,000 miles. Fully zerked fittings added when I purchased this used 95 D1. Tie rods stiff as new zero wear grease sacks full.
Rare earth magnets 1/4" x 2" long added to the motor, trans (5 speed) transfer box and both diffs to pick up normal metalic wear dust. All this isn't by the Rover book or service departments so called "Tech" training manuals but neither is running vehicles over 500K between engine rebuilds. Yes I run them hard being a hot rodder. A pre-oiler on all my vehicles plus the Rover needs one the most of any motor l have ever owned with the dry starts. This makes then live way longer. I run ZDDP Plus zinc additive in the oil to save the RPI cam and bearings from failing with the lack of ZDDP in the oil these days due to the EPA, cats and roller lifters that Rovers do not have. They just slowly wear away your loss who cares your rebuild money down the toilet. Not me.
The 60K major plus end of lease 60K/5 year the doctor had the full Monti done including new Michelins installed on my D1. He planned on keeping this D1. Shame I caught this dealer 2 days after becoming the new owner with the billed service work that wasn't done with the PO billed for this major service. I asked this Stearship about this service not done with photos of the brake bleeders not uncovered with underseal still on them plus road dirt and was almost assulted in this Stealership and kicked out with the work not preformed but billed.
LRNA was notified about this rip off Stealership in San Francisco then all hell broke loose after sending in photos to LRNA. No thanks I do my own work. You trust a aircraft mechanics ability to keep a plane in the air and your life?
I'm a licensed A&P mechanic for the airlines. Now you understsand why i'm so harsh on stealerships and those half azz DIY so called mechanics. Sorry got me cranked up again. I feel sorry for the suckers that believe the Stealerships are the gods to keep your blessed Rover running for 500K miles. Dream on. They would be out of business if this happened, do the minimum or not at all for comeback repairs plus they are in the car selling business.
not repair. Done venting sorry fellow Rover owners. The last straw was when a service manager friend told me this was "a soccer mom money making POS vehicle that keeps him on the payroll". A few Rover mechanics I know have either 302 Fords or 350 Chevy's in their Rovers, this telling you something?
Rare earth magnets 1/4" x 2" long added to the motor, trans (5 speed) transfer box and both diffs to pick up normal metalic wear dust. All this isn't by the Rover book or service departments so called "Tech" training manuals but neither is running vehicles over 500K between engine rebuilds. Yes I run them hard being a hot rodder. A pre-oiler on all my vehicles plus the Rover needs one the most of any motor l have ever owned with the dry starts. This makes then live way longer. I run ZDDP Plus zinc additive in the oil to save the RPI cam and bearings from failing with the lack of ZDDP in the oil these days due to the EPA, cats and roller lifters that Rovers do not have. They just slowly wear away your loss who cares your rebuild money down the toilet. Not me.
The 60K major plus end of lease 60K/5 year the doctor had the full Monti done including new Michelins installed on my D1. He planned on keeping this D1. Shame I caught this dealer 2 days after becoming the new owner with the billed service work that wasn't done with the PO billed for this major service. I asked this Stearship about this service not done with photos of the brake bleeders not uncovered with underseal still on them plus road dirt and was almost assulted in this Stealership and kicked out with the work not preformed but billed.
LRNA was notified about this rip off Stealership in San Francisco then all hell broke loose after sending in photos to LRNA. No thanks I do my own work. You trust a aircraft mechanics ability to keep a plane in the air and your life?
I'm a licensed A&P mechanic for the airlines. Now you understsand why i'm so harsh on stealerships and those half azz DIY so called mechanics. Sorry got me cranked up again. I feel sorry for the suckers that believe the Stealerships are the gods to keep your blessed Rover running for 500K miles. Dream on. They would be out of business if this happened, do the minimum or not at all for comeback repairs plus they are in the car selling business.
not repair. Done venting sorry fellow Rover owners. The last straw was when a service manager friend told me this was "a soccer mom money making POS vehicle that keeps him on the payroll". A few Rover mechanics I know have either 302 Fords or 350 Chevy's in their Rovers, this telling you something?
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