sagging confirmed, now what?

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ftillier

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Is it possible to lower the truck onto jack stands using the EAS, or will it freak out and think it high-grounded and extend itself again?

And is it OK to use silicone lube on the O-rings when reassembling the valve block, or does it need to be dry?
 
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ftillier

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I removed the wheel and pulled the fender liner, got a nice pile of debris, along with a nerf dart.
PXL_20220805_030908665.jpg
 

ftillier

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The solenoids for the individual corners seem stuck having pinched their respective O-rings.
PXL_20220805_040959434.jpg


I can see some desiccant powder in the housing
 

ftillier

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They sell rebuild kits for the valve blocks, but a lot of the seals in the one I got did not work because the size was wrong.
Yes, mine were close, but not quite, too. I will see if I can return them. I put the valve block back together after cleaning it, and reassembled everything - no more bubbles there. I likely could have just tightened the bubbling hose fitting and saved myself a bunch of work, but I got to tinker and gain confidence with this system. I still have bubbles from the compressor outlet, and will see if I can pick up a new air tube from the dealer, though the price is quite steep online, and I suspect more so at the local dealer. What's the chance it's the fitting on the dehydrator, and not the hose itself, that's at fault?
 

ftillier

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Ordered the air tube kit from Atlantic British, will install when it comes in, and that should sort things. I haven't checked heights yet today, wanted to give it as much time as possible. Hopefully the fresh tube does the trick.
 

ftillier

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I installed the new air hose from the compressor to the central valve block, fixed the leak. I think the old line has gotten "bite" marks from the push to connect fitting in the dehydrator cap and su wouldn't seal all the way. Hopefully this sorts it for a while.
 

ftillier

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So the problem is back, but worse than before, with noticeable sagging over the course of a few hours. Took off the splash shield to get access to the front block, as well as the compressor cover to get access to the central valve block, and sprayed it all liberally with soapy water - the only place I saw any kind of leak is again at the connection between the dehydrator and the supply hose there. I think I might need to get a new cover with fresh seals (not sure I can replace just the compression fittings). Looking at the workshop manual, it seems the only way the front could bleed down given a leak at the compressor is if the front valve block doesn't close properly, which I suppose could be temperature related. Will test the theory tomorrow, and have pulled the EAS fuses and measured the corners to see how things change overnight.
 

cannondale900

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I had a similar situation but was not as methodical at diagnosing because the truck had 90k miles on it at the time and I figured most parts were close enough to needing replacement that I was fine throwing parts at the car.

Front left started sagging overnight. Due to the uneven nature of the sagging between L/R, I did not pull the relay but instead assumed it was either front valve block or front left strut. I replaced both front struts with Arnott units as I believe in repairing things in pairs when it comes to L/R suspension parts/tires on cars. Problem seemed solved for a few weeks until the entire front started kneeling overnight. At the same time I noticed the compressor laboring quite a bit. I quickly ordered a new AMK compressor kit and all three valve blocks figuring desiccant debris had permeated the system. I replaced the compressor and relay first as the valve blocks had not arrived yet. I no longer am seeing suspension sagging......all three valve blocks are sitting in my garage cabinet awaiting install.
 

Al Pizzica

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Appreciate you updating this frequently with learnings for when my 2013 air starts leaking!
 

ftillier

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So hindsight being 20/20, I probably should have bought a new dryer, rather than the dryer rebuild kit. Or at a minimum, the dryer rebuild kit that includes the new lid. I only got the filters and desiccant, but now I'm chasing other things and in the longer run it would have been easier and likely cheaper to just replace the dryer. I might try to pick up just the dryer lid, throwing good money after bad, in the name is scientific inquiry.

I suspect the solenoid wasn't closing all the way, and in my exercises to get the car jacked up the front dropped to the bump stops when I let the jack down, which may have cleared whatever obstruction there was. Things are "fixed", just need to reassemble things.
 

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