Steel/Any Wheels/Offroading Tires/AirSuspension LIfts

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wcryer

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Hey Everybody,

I am currently in the process of purchasing a "new" LR3. This will be an upgrade from my 94 disco with 172k. The 94 currently has the BF Goodrich All-terrain T/A KO's on it and they have been fantastic tires. They have lasted FOREVER.

The first upgrade im looking into for my LR3 is tires/wheels and one of those tricky air suspension lifts (johnsonrods.com). The only thing I would change about the BFG's is that they look a bit more aggressive.

What are people's favorite looks for these trucks?

The LR3 I am getting is white and I have always wanted a set of dark steel wheels, any suggestions there?

Favorite Tires? (i dont really care about noise, the 94 is just about as noisy as a car can get, I am used to it)

Air lifts? Long terms consequences, or are they as good as they sound?

Thanks in advance, cant wait to get back on some trails in CO. I've also really enjoyed looking at everyones setup's in the showoff thread.
-Will
 

blackforestham

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Steel wheels just aren't available with the proper load rating for the LR3. Just stick to the factory 18" rims - many have powder coated them black. Tires are a pretty subjective topic. For Colorado, the Goodyear DuraTrac should be perfect. Great on rocks and the road but they really shine in the snow and ice. Lift kits are just fine. Long term issues are virtually nil. But I'm biased :hello: Good luck with the build and keep us posted on the mods!
 

cbboard

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here's my recommendations/thoughts. some will agree, some won't.

1. find an LR3 with the HD package (rear locker and full size spare). the rear locker is really the only mechanical upgrade out there for the LR3. if i was buying a "new" LR3 at this point, this would be a must!

2. i haven't found a good set of steel wheels. if you end up buying an HSE with 19" wheels, sell the 19" wheels and find some factory 18" wheels as you will have more tire options. then i would rattle can them matte black. i had mine powdercoated. they look nice, but are kind of a pain to touch up. i haven't found a good set of steel wheels.

3. i run the rod mod full time. you can't go wrong with sasquatch rods or johnsonrods. it just depends on what you want.

4. as far as tires go, i have the cooper zeons 285/60/18 (a decent semi AT tire). they are cheap, look good, and can be run without the rod mod, ie you have a suspension fault and go down to bump stomps (you just need to zip tie a suspension cable in the driver's front wheel well to the frame so it won't get rubbed). i have come really close to getting a set of GY duratracs 275/65/18 but havent pulled the trigger on them as i am afraid of a suspension fault lowering the LR3 to the bump stomps and the wheels being to big to turn as they are 32.2" in diameter compared to 31.6" for the zeons. from what other members have said, the BFG T/A KOs in 265/65/18 will still clear when the truck is all the way lowered, but they run about $260 per tire, ouch. treadwright makes a 265/65/18 guard dog MT that might fit, but i don't know of anyone running them. they are super cheap.

5. the next best mod (IMO) after tires is a set of sliders. mine have taken a beating. rover specialties are super nice but pricey. i went with the stage 2, but wish i had gone with the stage 2 slim. justin at lucky8 is the go to guy for these. also, there are several other new sliders out there that are starting to get popular, so you might look around.

6. perhaps my favorite mod is my traxide dual battery setup. the LR3 loves its electricity, and it allows me to run an ARB fridge full time.

that's all i got at this point. good luck with your purchase!
 

wcryer

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Thanks guys great info. Yeah I wish i could snag the sliders off my 94. They are Rovertym and are very slick, dont jut out, and provide a nice step when the doors are open. sliders will definitely come after the tires. Any experience with people throwing the factory locking rear diff from heavy duty package. Or if it doesnt have it, would you just look for an aftermarket one?

Never got to the diffs on the Disco, so dont have much experience there.

On the note of your dual batt setup, any tutorial? and also, any clever mods to get the AUX input somewhere convenient besides the backseat?
 

blackforestham

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Any experience with people throwing the factory locking rear diff from heavy duty package. Or if it doesnt have it, would you just look for an aftermarket one?

You either have the HD w/ rear locker or you don't. They are not available as a realistic upgrade once it has left the factory. You will find part numbers available but to my knowledge, no one has ever been stubborn enough or rich enough to pull it off.
 

cbboard

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here's some links regarding the traxide dual battery setup. its a super easy install. you can get it with 2 extra 12 v sockets, which i ran to my cargo area. one for the fridge. other for miscellaneous items.

finding a used LR3 with the HD package can be tough. the easiest thing to do when looking is to look under the truck and see if it has a full size spare. that doesn't mean that it will definitely have the rear locker, but it's a good hint. and like blackforrestham said, putting the rear locker on aftermarket isn't really an option.

i have been running the rod mod full time for about a year without any problem. i did blow a CV joint in moab at the natl rally, which may or may not have been linked to the extra height/stress.


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/verandah/62580-traxide-full-power-cable-kit-d3.html

http://www.landroverworld.org/forums/showthread.php?t=13204&highlight=sc40

http://forums.landroverworld.org/showthread.php?t=17071&highlight=battery

http://www.traxide.com.au/D3.html
 

wcryer

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Is the difficulty with the lockers a result of the LR3 not being a solid beam axle like the previous discos?
 

dantheman1

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The difficulty is trying to integrate the locking diff with the electronics. If you had the correct LR computer system thing, like a fault mate, you could go into the electronics and activate it, or at the very least, mess with the software. In all honesty though, the terrain response does a very good job of "electronically" locking the rear diff, i.e. using the brakes to reduce or eliminate wheel spin at one of the wheels. Having the mechanical LSD just reduces the load on the terrain response and results in a quicker/instant locking response.
 

cbboard

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hey dan, you going to make it to SCARR? i think we are going to make it down for that saturday.
 

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