Troubleshooting coolant vacuum fill failure

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jlglr4

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This goes to a relevant point to this threat - which is I really don't know anything about the SV6 engine (and frankly don't know anything about turbochargers either...I would prefer to avoid them when able, particularly for off road vehicles). The SV6 (which @Rendak is driving) has had yet another added layer of complexity which could be further complicating his situation.
The scv6 has a supercharger, no turbocharger. Superchargers are really dead simple. Just a big blower on top of the air intake run by a single belt off the engine, and it gives a very nice boost even at low RPMs. The only thing that complicates repairs is that the sc has an intercooler that cools the air coming through the SC (the SC heats the air quite a bit, which would lead to inefficiency in combustion) - since it runs coolant, any top-end engine work requires draining the coolant. Getting the SC on/off is not very difficult otherwise. I really like superchargers, but in the LR4 they seem to have gotten very little advantage over the old naturally aspirated V8. Maybe 5 mpg real world (if that) and slightly less power overall. Otherwise, I think the engine is pretty solid, it’s just those damn plastic cooling pipes.

But, both the scV6 and the V8 seem to be very quick to warp the heads once they overheat. Maybe that’s true of any aluminum heads, but it’s pretty disappointing to hear about so many engines trashed by this issue.
 

Rendak

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Thanks, folks. Good news is I serviced the supercharger when I had it off the engine during the cooling system overhaul. I replaced the coupler and the oil and the gasket between the supercharger and the intake manifold. The oil was kinda gross but even the guy who made the video I was following and who had the most mint condition LR4 I’ve ever seen, AND was doing the supercharger service at 60k miles showed his supercharger oil and it looked just like mine. And everything else looked in fine condition too.
 

Rendak

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Oh and FWIW re: the engine temps, I did notice that my coolant temp never got over 210 on the 30 minute drive I took after I did the system overhaul but before that second drive on the highway that caused these problems. So if 230 is “normal” then the overhaul did a great job at lowering the operating temps.
 

Land Rover Joe

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@Land Rover Joe and @jlglr4 do either of you know the level of effort required to get at the head gaskets?

You mean the level of effort to get to that block (obviously I have the V8), with those head gaskets, with those heads (valves with the camshaft facing side as well as cylinder facing side)?
 

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Rendak

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Yup! In that first picture I’m oriented to what I’m seeing on the block — I see you have the oil cooler and lower half of the front coolant crossover pipe off.
 

Land Rover Joe

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Yup! In that first picture I’m oriented to what I’m seeing on the block — I see you have the oil cooler and lower half of the front coolant crossover pipe off.

Right - things are off.

Below are two photos of the engine bay that particular day.

We pulled everything out (and eventually even the engine itself in order to clean the oil pan and change the AUX chain and whatnot) so we went really deep in this thing.

So to do all of that, the job takes days and days. And if you are doing this alone, then days and days and days and days.

And you need the right (special and hand) tools, and the right parts, and....

We have been chatting about all this and I would say that the general consensus, and certainly my opinion, is taking out more is better.

But, this is tied to my own philosophy that servicing the engine to this particular level, you might as well do everything. But that is not necessarily what you want or need. The advantage to my approach, however, is that you can really take a look at all these bits and pieces and see what else is wrong and comprehensively service the whole system. I think that is invaluable...but time consuming. And any work on a Land Rover simply will not be cheap.

As you can see in these photographs, there is a ton of dirt and grime and some (not too bad but it is there) corrosion. All of that needed attention...which took more time. In fact, these photos are from almost two months ago and we are still doing some finishing touches on the engine bay (mostly complete at this point but not 100% finished with the engine).

Additionally, I replaced most things in there I could: all new pumps / pulleys, all new hoses (almost), complete drains and flushes of all fluids. But when firing her up now, my impression is that she sounds better than when I first got her (I might be completely not remembering but it sure seems that way).

Again, you don't have to do all of that but if you want to get at the heads you will need to pull a lot of stuff out (not necessarily the radiator and A/C but it will definitely make life a lot easier) in order to really get the access you need.

So the answer to your simple question is something like "it depends". It will depend upon how deep you want and need to go, it will depend on how fast you work, and it will depend upon what problems you encounter along the way. Right now, aspects of this you cannot yet know.

I don't want to discourage you at all. On the contrary, this job sounds totally doable; but it will take time and I want you to understand that up-front. I assume you have the workshop manual and in there you can see the time given to do certain jobs. It will probably say something absurd like "Head Removal: 8.75 hours". That is completely useless for our purposes since the engineers calculated exactly how long a master mechanic with all the right tools in a fully-kitted workshop would require working at maximum speed on a singular task on a completely new engine. Rather than worry about how many hours required for a particular job, I prefer to see it as "the journey and not the destination." Which is incredibly frustrating. But you should know that you can and will get to the bottom of this problem eventually, but this will be more about what you learn along the way.

All of which drives my wife rather crazy (since I need this truck and this is all a lot of time and money) but I think will be worth it in the long run - if this truck has lasted me 15 years, perhaps I can get another 15 out of her?

So that is my logic, philosophy, and extended answer to your succinct question. Hope it helps...
 

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Rendak

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Thanks @Land Rover Joe ! I work from home and we have another car so I have the luxury of time and space, it’s just whether I’ll want to take the time to do it, should evidence reflect positively on the engine’s well being after these next couple tests.

I have a toddler who keeps my wife and I plenty busy, so this journey has been happening 2 hours at a time between 8 and 10p on most week nights. With summer coming down here in Georgia though, we’ll see if I can stomach the heat in the garage.
 

Rendak

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Well folks, hate to say it but I found coolant in the oil pan.

What a wild ride this has been, and a very sobering reminder that everyone makes mistakes. I’ve been wrenching on my vehicles for probably close to 20 years now. First ever engine I worked on was a 5VZFE in a 1998 Toyota T100. Had that truck for 14 years and did everything from fuel injectors, valve clearance adjustment, radiator, O2 sensors, suspension, and more. Only ever made a couple of mistakes. I remember as a newbie I replaced the PCV valve with a cheap aftermarket part that made blue smoke come out the exhaust, but that was an easy fix. Same with the fuel injectors. I remember thinking I had screwed up the system and had an engine knock. Turns out I just forgot to tighten down the ground wires on something.

Wild that a similarly small mistake of not seating the clamp right on the lower radiator hose could cause such a big problem here. Oh well I guess.
 

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