I compiled others' descriptions of the procedure (still only $17 incl. 1st class postage!)
Make sure you put the wear sensor onto the left hand side inner pad. The wear sensor has a small brass contact spring that fits around it. This was stuck into my old brake pad, and could easily get lost so make sure you retrieve it.
How the hell do you get the sensor cable to plug back in to where it belongs? I got the old one off without a problem, and routing the new one was not even too much trouble, since there is no liner at the rear. However, the cable plugs in behind the air suspension, which makes it very difficult to see what's going on. I presume it's simple when they're built, since the body's probably not on when the cable is fitted, but taking it off to change it later seems a bit extreme!
Anyway, I found that you can get the socket (the part "on the car") to a visible position, but I still can't get the plug (on the end of the new cable) to click into position correctly. Can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong?
Best to undo inner skin clips and follow wire up to the connector...now using your 3rd hand...I think you get the picture....try and release the old connector (all by feel) and attach the new one..
It is a complete pain to connect up in the wheel arch. Best advice is study the new one to work out how the old one comes out!
As I pulled mine off the disc pad I broke the (ceramic?) bit adjacent to the disc, (was replacing it anyway, so a little heavy handed) so if you are planning not to change it - pull very gently, and don't lever the angled bit.
35 Nm (26 lb.ft) for the bolts; tighten the bleed screw to 14 Nm (10 lb.ft)
Tools required;
Good jack and stands, wheel brace, 13mm spanner, 15mm spanner 17mm spanner, Pliers, brake cleaner, brake grease, piston retraction tool.
For the front, you need a 13mm and 17mm spanner wrench for the front and a 15mm spanner for the rear. The problem is that you need the wrenches to be narrow. I haven't been able to locate "spanner" wrenches at any auto supply store, so I just ground down the wrenches on a grinder. I just used a c clamp carefully to retract the pistons.
I jacked under the beefy arm that attaches to the wheel.
1) I found a 13mm socket to be easier than a spanner for the caliper bolts
2) I also used the G-clamp method of getting the piston back in, but rather than messing around cutting pieces of wood, just used the spanner across the piston to stop the clamp going up inside it.
FRONTS
1. Securely jack the car onto axle stands and remove front wheels
2. On the left hand side, use pliers to pull the pad wear sensor off the pad
3. Remove the 13 mm bolts that hold the caliper to the caliper frame (use the 15mm spanner, rear, 17mm spanner front, to hold the sliding joints whilst you undo the caliper bolts)
4. (Discard the caliper bolts IF new ones are in the kit)
5. Lift off the caliper and support, take care not to strain the brake pipe and wires.
6. Remove and discard the old pads. (Front and rear pads are different, Front has 2 piston system, rear has 1)
7. (Remove and discard the pad support springs IF new ones in kit)
8. Use piston compression tool to fully retract pistons into caliper - take care and push the pistons slowly and squarely. use a small piece of wood cut to size to hold one of the two pistons in place, as one comes out as you compress the other
9. Clean the caliper with brake cleaner.
10 IF included, fit the new support springs to the caliper frame
11 Smear a little brake grease onto the back of each pad, and a little onto the sliding surface that fits into the support spring
12 Fit the pads into the support springs (rear pads are directional chamfer goes towards the ground, ie the leading edge of disk travel for forward motion)
13 Replace brake wear sensor, refit original or tie back if you feel you do not need it if its still intact.
14 Replace the caliper onto the frame and use the new bolts to secure.
15 Refit road wheel
16 Pump brake pedal to prime the system.
17 Check level in brake fluid reservoir
18 Carefully road test
