which rod?

[Team Jeff]

Rod issue?

Okay, so I wanted a little more lift in the front of the LR3 so I made rods for the front ONLY, now I get an amber suspension fault light. Do I need to add an equal amount of lift to the rear to avoid tripping a light or is it a coincidence?

 

[blackforestham]

Not coincidence Jeff. The rears will also need the mod. 1mm or 2mm difference is fine between the fronts and rears as far as tripping faults go. Trimming 10mm off the fronts only will obviously cause a fault with such different output signals being received by the ECU. Best case scenario is to mod all rods equally (or close) to obtain your desired stance - THEN, have all sensors calibrated to each other by the Dealer or an Indy who has the proper computer tools. This is the exact reason why I made my set adjustable. Buy a set of OEM arms (4- 2 front, 2 rear) and keep a "modded" set and factory set with the vehicle.

 

[Houm_WA]

Sensors calibrated? What does this do per se? I run them all the time (on the trail) and then take them back off for the street...is there something I'm missing by not calibrating them?

 

[blackforestham]

Sensors calibrated? What does this do per se? I run them all the time (on the trail) and then take them back off for the street...is there something I'm missing by not calibrating them?

In stock form, your sensors are already calibrated to each other at the factory. It assures signal parameters are within spec. The signal is rated in mV or mA - I'm not sure myself?? Disco3.co.uk can answer that one for you. The connecting rod's orientation determines the output (think dimmer switch). If all of your sensors are putting out different signals, the computer will determine a comm error and throw a fault. There is a certain window of allowable values before a Fault is registered. If you ONLY run the rods for trail use, you're more than likely fine. Full-time rods can benefit from a calibration to assure acceptable output values.

 

[Houm_WA]

...thanks for the explanation.

 

[joecool509]

Black magic rods

Lucky8 is now carrying black magic rods. They are only 75$ tomorrow only if you are looking to save a few bucks. I believe they are polymer unlike Johnson's.

 

[jimbiram]

Frankly, even though the Johnson Rods work great, now that I have been using the GAP Diagnostics EAS Controller, I don't bother putting on and taking off the rods. It is so convenient to take 15 seconds and raise the vehicle 35 or even 50 MM just before going on the trail. Solves the dilemma of the "30 MPH Chime" warning of lowering, especially if on back roads that are smooth. The guys who figured this device out came up with a brilliant design.

Check out their website: http://www.gap-diagnostic.com

 

[joecool509]

That is funny, I have my GAP Diagnostic IID tool on the way. Looking forward to it. Especially when they add the service reminder reset function.

 

[2yellowlabs]

Wow! This really seems like the way to go vs. rods. I no longer see any advantage to a rod lift vs. this controller besides price. The little extra cost seems worth it compared to crawling around under the fender wells!

Frankly, even though the Johnson Rods work great, now that I have been using the GAP Diagnostics EAS Controller, I don't bother putting on and taking off the rods. It is so convenient to take 15 seconds and raise the vehicle 35 or even 50 MM just before going on the trail. Solves the dilemma of the "30 MPH Chime" warning of lowering, especially if on back roads that are smooth. The guys who figured this device out came up with a brilliant design.

Check out their website: http://www.gap-diagnostic.com

 

[joecool509]

I just received my IID unit and it worked great after working through some initial issues. They had flashed the wrong software prior to shipment but it did not do anything to my LR3. Always a plus! It is beta after all. This let me be the first to beta test their software to do firmware upgrades. All I can say is the tech support was on it, on the weekend.

Post install--- It was sooo easy to raise my LR3 another 40mm and reload the original specs in about a minute after the wife complained it was too high to get in. Checked my faults and even lets me monitor compressor PSI and temp which will help me identify any issues before failure.

Added bonus - upgrades to the software can be made as they develop new features. Just need a USB cable.