T
TTjr
Guest
access panel under the carpet
hee hee hee....
hee hee hee....
$400 Brake Light Change
- Thread starter Rich_98
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Sergei
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Mar 16, 2004
- Posts
- 827
- Reaction score
- 0
Well..
- never ever go to Jiffy Lube -like places unless they letting you to stand there with huge wrench in hand, threatening them with physical violence for whatever they do wrong to your truck. Also never use their oil or filters. SPECIALLY PENZOIL wretched kind
- brake light (as funny as it sound) may actually render your car lifeless as bloody thing sits on same idiotic circuit that reports "brake isnt quite pressed" (why its 65$ anyway? bulb is bugger all and access panel right there..)
- no start is funky one. Before you go off and buy one - check other possibillities. (Joey, where was your friend when i needed one?! Still may get one for spare though. Thanks for url). First of all - do you hear buzzing when you turning ignition key into 3rd position? It shall shut down after few seconds. If there is no sound - we talking fuel pump or electrical bits - try to hit bloody inertia switch and see if it helps. Check fuse in underhood box. Rip out cover in rear and check voltage. If buzzing is there - then its not fuel pump. Then check and clean throughly all air lines (but dont spray things into MAF sensor). Take out and clean IAC (stepper motor). Borrow friend's gauge and check out fuel pressure (there is place on fuel rail to hook it up) - should be about 37 after pump shutting off when ignition key is in 3rd, and about 31 when running. Then come back and tell us which way it turned out Then we can try to go deeper in either branch of events.
- never ever go to Jiffy Lube -like places unless they letting you to stand there with huge wrench in hand, threatening them with physical violence for whatever they do wrong to your truck. Also never use their oil or filters. SPECIALLY PENZOIL wretched kind
- brake light (as funny as it sound) may actually render your car lifeless as bloody thing sits on same idiotic circuit that reports "brake isnt quite pressed" (why its 65$ anyway? bulb is bugger all and access panel right there..)
- no start is funky one. Before you go off and buy one - check other possibillities. (Joey, where was your friend when i needed one?!
Still may get one for spare though. Thanks for url). First of all - do you hear buzzing when you turning ignition key into 3rd position? It shall shut down after few seconds. If there is no sound - we talking fuel pump or electrical bits - try to hit bloody inertia switch and see if it helps. Check fuse in underhood box. Rip out cover in rear and check voltage. If buzzing is there - then its not fuel pump. Then check and clean throughly all air lines (but dont spray things into MAF sensor). Take out and clean IAC (stepper motor). Borrow friend's gauge and check out fuel pressure (there is place on fuel rail to hook it up) - should be about 37 after pump shutting off when ignition key is in 3rd, and about 31 when running. Then come back and tell us which way it turned out Then we can try to go deeper in either branch of events.I already found the fuel pump, thanks though
In terms of how we figured out it's the fuel pump - 1) Fuse is fine - 2) Disconnected fuel line from filter, turned car on. From my "general" knowledge fuel is supposed to squirt out - but nothing comes out - Plus we can hear the fuel pump start when switching ignition on, but quickly it dies out.
Why do you not recommend using Jiffy Lube's oil? If I'm not mistaken, oil is oil? (Of course there are different "richnesses" of oil and "types" of oil, but in terms of oil type, type a is type a no matter who makes it?)
In terms of how we figured out it's the fuel pump - 1) Fuse is fine - 2) Disconnected fuel line from filter, turned car on. From my "general" knowledge fuel is supposed to squirt out - but nothing comes out
- Plus we can hear the fuel pump start when switching ignition on, but quickly it dies out.Why do you not recommend using Jiffy Lube's oil? If I'm not mistaken, oil is oil? (Of course there are different "richnesses" of oil and "types" of oil, but in terms of oil type, type a is type a no matter who makes it?)
Bry: Fuel *SHOULD* shoot out of the Shrader Valve..on the rail left side of the engine Bank B...I would put money on the Fuel Pump.. As long as you checked all the others out first (Bat, Alt, Bat clamps/cables)...Read thru some of my old posts and see if what my Rover was doing is what yours was doing. Was hot in CALI today ?? According to Serg, these things like to go when hot and or high altitude. I am wondering the same thing about the Oil as well...10W30...And Serg maybe you can also address this whole oil filter thing..ie the need to use different filters (K& N) to avoid getting low oil pressure ect THANKS!!! RoverChic
Sergei
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Mar 16, 2004
- Posts
- 827
- Reaction score
- 0
Richard - oy Ok then. If it dies right after cranking engine up then its most likely if indeedy FP. However it dies out when you just turning key (i.e position 3) it sppse to shut out.. Anyway - i sppse you know it by now
Reason to stay off from quick changing places is pretty simple - dude that getting paid pretty much nothing and doesnt know you personally - never will do same job as mechanic that deals with you on regular basis. Plus those shops often got job half way done, forgetting to put oil filling caps, forgetting some stuff inside engine compartment & etc ( i am not kidding btw. had all sorts of that happened to me back in houston, when i was careless). And of course damaging precious lug nut caps with wrong size air guns
As of filters its pretty simple. Since we talking upward facing flow - you need filter with anti-drain back valve. I.e one that wont let your oil to flow back down into filter from oil pump. If it goes away - you looking at dry starts which are putting your engine through living hell. Unfortunately most of manufacturers dont care to put out models that they actually sticking those in. And while filter may be listed in parts book as "ok" - it actually may not have this feature. Apart from OEM filters i am for sure know only about K&N having those. WIX that is sitting on one of me shelves wasnt confirmed, b/c when i was talking with their dealer dude told me that "well.. I know they putting it in some of them, but i cant tell you for sure if this one got it". So i am trying to save it for time when i will feel like cutting it open and check.
Oh yeah and that would be another reason why if i am going to fast change place i like to carry me own filter You may sometime strike pretty good deals on web for K&N - i got last year huge pack of them for XTerra for bugger all on trucksperformace.com. Now if only i can find same deal for long ones for Discovery..
Ok then. If it dies right after cranking engine up then its most likely if indeedy FP. However it dies out when you just turning key (i.e position 3) it sppse to shut out.. Anyway - i sppse you know it by now Reason to stay off from quick changing places is pretty simple - dude that getting paid pretty much nothing and doesnt know you personally - never will do same job as mechanic that deals with you on regular basis. Plus those shops often got job half way done, forgetting to put oil filling caps, forgetting some stuff inside engine compartment & etc ( i am not kidding btw. had all sorts of that happened to me back in houston, when i was careless). And of course damaging precious lug nut caps with wrong size air guns
As of filters its pretty simple. Since we talking upward facing flow - you need filter with anti-drain back valve. I.e one that wont let your oil to flow back down into filter from oil pump. If it goes away - you looking at dry starts which are putting your engine through living hell. Unfortunately most of manufacturers dont care to put out models that they actually sticking those in. And while filter may be listed in parts book as "ok" - it actually may not have this feature. Apart from OEM filters i am for sure know only about K&N having those. WIX that is sitting on one of me shelves wasnt confirmed, b/c when i was talking with their dealer dude told me that "well.. I know they putting it in some of them, but i cant tell you for sure if this one got it". So i am trying to save it for time when i will feel like cutting it open and check.
Oh yeah and that would be another reason why if i am going to fast change place i like to carry me own filter
You may sometime strike pretty good deals on web for K&N - i got last year huge pack of them for XTerra for bugger all on trucksperformace.com. Now if only i can find same deal for long ones for Discovery..
Sergei
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Mar 16, 2004
- Posts
- 827
- Reaction score
- 0
Oh and oil is oil.. Well - they arent really same. Even synthetics are different. And mineral ones are just plain weird. Some of them can perform pretty good, and others will fill your engine with lovely bits and pieces of cooked oil. Example - look at the cover1.jpg.. Eeekkk.. (and no its not looking like that anymore) And i am gonna try ATF cure next week Still got used oil from last change, so no containers availble to do another flush
Melissa - see the second picture? Thats why i like B&G and 3M over Seafoam
Still got used oil from last change, so no containers availble to do another flush Melissa - see the second picture? Thats why i like B&G and 3M over Seafoam
Attachments
Last edited:
Moose
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2004
- Posts
- 1,082
- Reaction score
- 2
Do we know for sure this isn't the IAC? I recall having a very bad idle and spotty starting until cleaning that thing.
5 minutes to check and clean, rather than $200 for a fuel pump...
5 minutes to check and clean, rather than $200 for a fuel pump...
Sergei
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Mar 16, 2004
- Posts
- 827
- Reaction score
- 0
And new IAC is only 47$
LRWheelman
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jul 18, 2004
- Posts
- 144
- Reaction score
- 0
Hello all! Melissa-nice access panel photo! Serg-You are correct-all jiffy lubes, fast lubes, speedee lubes, etc suck! I have seen 1 Valvoline Fas-Lube that was a great oil change station, but that is a rarity. And I still don't know if I would take them my Landy. I've heard that the AC Delco filter does have anti-drainback valve. (One of our company mech's told me, (He's a rotella boy!)) You all should hear the stories of "Oil changes gone bad" from my friend @ local salvage yard. "Yes, I was almost sure I put that drain plug back in" and the famous "I thought Jimmy was the oil tech on tuesdays!" Hours of excuses, recited in their original hillbilly dialect, can be found from the man who recieved these cars & sent them to their final resting place! Just another reason why I change my own oil. BTW, the D1's drain plug should, @ that size be properly referred to as a "****". Thank You! LRW.
