Squealing brakes...

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

TheWidup

Full Access Member
Joined
May 25, 2018
Posts
541
Reaction score
268
Location
Grayslake, IL, USA
I'm sure this has been covered in depth on some other thread but I can't find it. I'm at 34k miles on a MY13. The brakes have been "squealing" since the day I bought it with just over 25k miles on it. They do it at lower speeds at initial press of the pedal but if I push down harder it goes away. Pads and rotors look fine, there's no warping or vibration from them. Do I just deal with the noise until I do a full replacement or is there something else I could do to stop this noise?
 

ryanjl

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2015
Posts
3,018
Reaction score
1,793
Location
KCMO
A lot of time it's something with the pad compound, or maybe the rotors have gotten glazed. If it's this, hitting the brakes hard 4 or 5 times in a row (going from 40mph to 5mph) could help.

Could be something on the back of the pad where it touches the caliper piston. Could be something in the brass-brackets that serve as the channel at either end of the pad that the pad slides in (hard to explain, but you'll see them if you look at them). My guess is that it's one of the latter two. You can take the brakes apart, clean these areas with a wire brush, then lightly grease them with the brake grease.
 

TheWidup

Full Access Member
Joined
May 25, 2018
Posts
541
Reaction score
268
Location
Grayslake, IL, USA
I guess I'll have to find a spot to do some "emergency" braking to see if it's glazing. Oh man...if I'm going to tear it down to clean them I almost just want to replace them.
 

ryanjl

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2015
Posts
3,018
Reaction score
1,793
Location
KCMO
I guess I'll have to find a spot to do some "emergency" braking to see if it's glazing. Oh man...if I'm going to tear it down to clean them I almost just want to replace them.

You can clean them out without removing the calipers. Just jack it up, remove the wheel, then remove the two bolts that let you remove the pads.

But yeah, it's not a whole lot more at that point to just replace the rotors and pads. It is a lot more money, though, especially if you have a lot of pad left and no other problems.
 

aztris

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2018
Posts
71
Reaction score
54
Location
Seattle
Are the 308's weighted? Rear brake squealing is driving me crazy and I want to make sure whatever I replace them with does not squeal.

Also, I see the Stage 2 kit is drilled/slotted and the Stage 3 is slotted only. Stage 2 is also a higher price, so I'm having a little trouble understanding the stages.

 

buybrakes

Active Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2010
Posts
36
Reaction score
5
The quickest stopping rotors are the slotted versions, hence the designation Stage 3 (as in better than Stage 2 ). I always use slotted rotors for all my SUVs. It is also a quiet combo partly due to shimmed high quality pad and partly due to the rotors being made from a high-end 3500 grade high carbon iron as opposed to standard 3000 grade cast iron.

When I tried the Stage 2 drilled-slotted versions, which look great, I found it required more brake pedal pressure to generate hard-sudden stops. That's due to pad surface to rotor surface contact area. There is less rotor surface area on a drilled and slotted rotor, hence less friction can be generated.

Well then you may ask "Why are Stage 2 Rotors (the drilled and slotted versions) more money? It is only due to machine time/cost on the CNC machine. The Stage 2 costs more to produce, that's it. They are mostly a "looks" product.
 

ttforcefed

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2010
Posts
522
Reaction score
148
any idea how the stoptechs are vs hawk ceramic/akebono/ and the low dist EBC pad?
 

Ian Morrison

Biffo 69
Joined
Apr 2, 2018
Posts
67
Reaction score
21
Location
Birmingham, United Kingdom
I'm sure this has been covered in depth on some other thread but I can't find it. I'm at 34k miles on a MY13. The brakes have been "squealing" since the day I bought it with just over 25k miles on it. They do it at lower speeds at initial press of the pedal but if I push down harder it goes away. Pads and rotors look fine, there's no warping or vibration from them. Do I just deal with the noise until I do a full replacement or is there something else I could do to stop this noise?
Had exactly the same problem with my Discovery 3 get some Mintex backing pads and put them between the Pad back and the piston. Also if you put a thin smear of copper slick again on Pad back and piston this sometimes works by itself
I'm sure this has been covered in depth on some other thread but I can't find it. I'm at 34k miles on a MY13. The brakes have been "squealing" since the day I bought it with just over 25k miles on it. They do it at lower speeds at initial press of the pedal but if I push down harder it goes away. Pads and rotors look fine, there's no warping or vibration from them. Do I just deal with the noise until I do a full replacement or is there something else I could do to stop this noise?
 

PaulLR3

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2006
Posts
1,401
Reaction score
530
Location
Boston
I tried a variety of aftermarket brakes on my LR3. In short time the rears always squealed and the front rotors warped, especially in winter. On my LR4 I'm staying with OEM rotors and pads. Replaced at 45K miles and last week at 88K miles. Always quiet, no warping and the lasting for 40K+ miles is pretty decent too. Stay with OEM pads & rotors...from my experience and others here, they are the best option.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
36,223
Posts
217,594
Members
30,473
Latest member
OnoA
Top