LR4 Valve Cover Gasket Replacement?

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scott schmerge

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Anyone out there that has replaced the valve cover gasket on a 5.0 engine? I’ve searched and searched and can’t seem to find any info for my LR4. I’ve got a minor leak off the passenger side. Not a pressing issue but would like to address it in the next couple of months. Can anyone direct me to YouTube or other step by step?

I’ve done a valve cover before and am thinking it is not overly complicated on this truck. Looks like fuel rail, depressurization of fuel system, injectors, then valve cover removal and gasket replacement, rtv sealant, etc...

I’m guessing access might be a bit of a challenge to some of the valve cover bolts.

Assuming while I’m at it, new injector replacement is also going to happen...it’s got 117k on the clock now.

Any help would be much appreciated!
 

Azoo

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It shouldn't really be a difficult project, Why not just look around the valve cover to see if all the bolts are accessible and also see if what obstructions might be along your path and figure out if you can remove them. I did my plugs during the summer and the last 2 closest to the firewall was a pain so i'm thinking the back bolts might be the hardest to get to. So i would take off the engine cover and the 2 air cleaner boxes and See if its doable.
 

ryanjl

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I don't think you'll have to remove the injectors, will you? If so, that would probably be the biggest PITA of the job.
 

scott schmerge

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https://www.roverparts.com/resources/videos/fuel-injectors-late-model-land-rover/
I don't think you'll have to remove the injectors, will you? If so, that would probably be the biggest PITA of the job.

I’m assuming it’s removal of both plugs and injectors based on design. Could be wrong... anyone with insights? AB has a slide hammer like tool for pulling injectors which makes it look relatively easy. By the looks of the video, sans valve covers, I think that’s what I’m looking at as a part of the job.

Looks as though gaskets in center of valve cover go around plugs and injectors.

Would love to know exact step by step to ensure I know exactly what I’m getting into and all tools required.
 
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rick manzano

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It shouldn't really be a difficult project, Why not just look around the valve cover to see if all the bolts are accessible and also see if what obstructions might be along your path and figure out if you can remove them. I did my plugs during the summer and the last 2 closest to the firewall was a pain so i'm thinking the back bolts might be the hardest to get to. So i would take off the engine cover and the 2 air cleaner boxes and See if its doable.
 

rick manzano

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You will need to remove your injectors, and coils. Disconnect the fuel line in the branch that connects to the other bank.You will need to replace the seals on the injectors.
 

scott schmerge

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You will need to remove your injectors, and coils. Disconnect the fuel line in the branch that connects to the other bank.You will need to replace the seals on the injectors.

Yep, I figured that out. This project is next on the list. Thanks for the input. Leak seems to have slowed after torquing the valve cover bolts. I found the main source of oil leakage (albeit still minimal- it is a Land Rover after all) is the vacuum pump on the bottom front of the engine.
 

NASdiesel

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Resurrecting this a little. My 5.0 has developed an oil leak somewhere on the lower right hand side of the engine. When it sits for a while I get a tiny pool about quarter sized. I did an inspection of the valve gasket and front timing cover/engine and found nothing but when I look down the right bank, I can see oil on what appears to be something approx the size of a tin can (sardine can). I need to find some time to pull the wheel and skid plate. Any thoughts on what I might be seeing?
 

PaulLR3

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At 99K miles and my CPO warranty about to expire, I had the shop foreman at the dealer go through anything and everything covered by that warranty. He did find my passenger side valve cover leaking and replaced it under warranty. However, it was dripping oil into the alternator and said that it would cause the alternator to fail earlier than normal. But since the alternator was still working, it was not covered. I paid for a new alternator so the new one is good for the next 99K miles.
 

Matt Weiss

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Resurrecting this a little. My 5.0 has developed an oil leak somewhere on the lower right hand side of the engine. When it sits for a while I get a tiny pool about quarter sized. I did an inspection of the valve gasket and front timing cover/engine and found nothing but when I look down the right bank, I can see oil on what appears to be something approx the size of a tin can (sardine can). I need to find some time to pull the wheel and skid plate. Any thoughts on what I might be seeing?

Same exact with my 2010 LR4 ... Exactly.. what is that Tin can looking thing and could that cause the leak up front passenger side? If timing valve cover, them oil would be above the alternator?? This is a leak lower than the alternator
 

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