LR4 Transmission Fluid Change: Pan Swap Option

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Justin Allen

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So I’ve basically read through this entire thread but remain a little confused. A few folks have mentioned they just did a simple drain refill, while others did the whole conversion. I didn’t think a simple drain refill was possible hence why you had to convert. So what am I missing? If you can drain refill, why do the conversion?
 

gsxr

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Draining and refilling without removing the pan changes roughly 30% of the fluid, and leaves the old filter in place. You need to repeat this a few times to change most of the fluid.

If you want to replace the filter, the pan has to come off, and that is when some people prefer to convert to the metal pan with separate filter. Installing a new OE/OEM plastic pan with integrated filter may cost more and requires more work, removing a support crossmember to allow dropping the pan+filter assembly.

At least, that's my understanding. I've only done the drain+refill once, I need to repeat it a couple more times, and plan to eventually convert to the metal pan (have the parts on the shelf).

:vollkomme
 

TrinidadLR4

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the oem design of the pan and filter is one-piece, so if you want to drain and refill and replace with oem, you will have to raise the engine a fair amount in order to clear the crossmember and remove the pan+filter. If you cut off the filter and ditch the one-piece design and do the conversion, future drain and fill procedures become a lot simpler.
 

txfromwi

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Of course drain/refill does not change the filter itself, so it would be like changing engine oil without changing the filter - better than nothing, but not optimal.

But note in my extensive instructions (above) for the pan swap on the LR4 8 speed transmission - it was simply not possible to remove the factory drain plug from the factory pan. Mine (and I stress mine because sometimes it seems that each and every one of these Rovers is a unique vehicle only slightly related to any other one...) Anyway.. for MY 8 speed that was a plastic plug in a plastic pan. Even using a very tight fitting brand new 10mm hex it simply spun around inside the drain plug - the plastic was very slick and simply deformed as the points slipped past.

If you can't remove the plug then it's the whole project....
 

BznLR4

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The Atlantic British kit uses the upgraded ZF pan. I've installed this in my LR4 and in 2013 RRS. It is a PITA but works perfectly, and is easy to remove the next time you need to get in there (in my case to replace the TCM).

The 4 or 5 bolts across the back (above the crossover) are quite the nuisance to reach, but 20 minutes later you're done. The entire job took 4-5 hours, even the 3rd time that I did it. Set of 4 ramps were well worth the cost in order to have clearance to move around comfortably (lift would be nicer, but not available to me).

AB kit works so well, I don't see any reason to mess with other solutions.
 

mm3846

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Just did this Sunday, took me 4 hours taking my sweet time, from sliding the jack under the truck to parking it after the test drive. I was so happy to get the lube locker gasket, I’ve been using them on diffs since high school and it makes these jobs so easy.

The new pan has two drain plugs it looks like.. the big 10mm hex like the original pan, and a small one. Anyone know why that one is there?
 

gabrielef

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I did my transmission fluid and pan change (2006 LR3 with 290K miles) a couple months ago due to improperly torqued bolts about 56K miles ago, which lead to seeping and eventual bad shifting. The conversion had been done awhile back, but was the first time I’ve done the fluid and filter change on my own. I was able to use a buddy’s lift (Scully Offroad in Sacramento, CA) which made access a bit easier.

The big game changer for me was removing the transfer case mount bolt just aft of the transmission and using a transmission jack to raise the aft end of the transmission about 2 inches. Not only did this make removing and replacing the pan WAY easier, but also accessing those 4 or 5 bolts at the forward end of the pan was a lot easier too. I did not replace the harness plug, as it was not leaking. All shifting issues resolved.

Now I have my 2013 and 2016 LR4’s fluid and filters to change lol. Thanks for all the tips here, I’m sure it’ll make the process a lot easier!!
 

gsxr

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@gabrielef, does your LR3 have the plastic pan with integrated filter, or do you have the 'conversion' with metal pan and separate filter?
 

Nick11LR4

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Love this thread, just bought the conversion kit from AB and should be here this weekend. Plan on using on my 2011 LR4 128k miles that is having some juddering issues and 50 rpm fluctuations when cruising. Reading this has made my planning it out much easier than just the AB video.

One question, has anyone had success with these ultra low profile torx wrenches? I was planning to lift after taking out the transfer case mount bolt but if using these would save that step then seems worth it.

 

ryanjl

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You don't need to lift the transfer case if you use the 2-piece transmission pain/filter kit. That's the whole point of the kit.

Unless I misunderstand what you are asking.
 

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