5.0L Crankshaft Seal Leak, Request Advice

[almost_nick]

Hey Everyone,

Just discovered an oil leak coming from what I suspect is the front crankshaft seal. 99% positive anyway.

Has anyone had this issue on a 5.0 and had it fixed. If so, couple questions..

1. How much did it cost to fix.
2. If DIY how hard was it? (I try to do all my own maintenance)

If I do it myself, can someone PM me or let me know what are the main Items I need to remove to replace the seal. I’ve seen a bunch of videos showing how to replace the timing chains (similar procedure), but unsure if I need to remove the injectors, valve covers, etc to remove the timing chain cover that holds the seal…

Here are some pictures. Wet with oil below the main crankshaft seal, dry as a bone above it. (Coolant leak was fixed 2 years ago, so I know that’s not the issue if you were wondering). Followed the dripping oil from the bottom of the oil pan all the way up to the crankshaft.

 

[BBLR3]

It could be the crankshaft seal, but I'd verify that its not the vacuum pump leaking oil first, as they are notorious for it. Mine was and it looked way worse than yours does.

 

[almost_nick]

It could be the crankshaft seal, but I'd verify that its not the vacuum pump leaking oil first, as they are notorious for it. Mine was and it looked way worse than yours does.

Hmm, good point.

Hard to say for certain. I’ll clean up the area and keep monitoring it. It’s pretty gunky and wet directly behind and below the crankshaft pulley so idk if it’s the vacuum pump since that would mean the oil leak would have to travel up to the crankshaft seal area. But that could be left over water pump leak residue. I’ll clean it the best I can and keep checking on it to see if I can find a more definitive culprit.

Maybe it’s worth changing the old style pump to the new style, it’s it as easy as draining the oil, and loosing the 4 bolts and replacing with the new style pump?

 

[BBLR3]

Maybe it’s worth changing the old style pump to the new style, it’s it as easy as draining the oil, and loosing the 4 bolts and replacing with the new style pump?

Yup. Drain oil, 2 bolts and unplug the hose. Very simple.

If its the pump, the oil just goes everywhere on the lower side of the engine. I spent more time cleaning up the oil mess than it took to swap the pump. I put an aftermarket on mine, but up to you on what parts you use.

 

[almost_nick]

Ok, did some clean up. After closer inspection, I can see that the crankshaft pulley sleeve is wet and glistens when a flashlight is shined on it. I can’t see how the vacuum pump could leak oil that far up the engine block. Now 99.9% sure it’s the crankshaft seal. Debating how complicated of a DIY job this would be..

 

[powershift]

Oil will leak mostly downwards and off to the sides at first from the brake vacuum pump. Either way there will be evidence if its leaking or not. If its all oily, greasy and hard to identify the source then I'd clean the front of the block and everywhere else to remove the oil, grime, dirt and watch for it to get oil seepage again before doing a crank seal because that is a major repair.

 

[Rover Range]

Definitely the crank seal leaking.

The flywheel will need to be locked to remove the crankshaft bolt.
To remove the crankshaft bolt, I use a 3/4" breaker bar from Northern Tools.

 

[Longtrail]

I don't think it's a terrible job other than as Rover Range says getting the crankshaft bolt off (and on - pay attention to thread direction). Absolutely go with a very big 3/4" breaker bar as I think you'll be getting close to 600lbft of torque (this is not exact given the torque spec on that bolt followed by 270deg of extra rotation). Here's the post where I put mine back on:

https://www.landroverworld.org/threads/looking-to-purchase-timing-chain-tools.45674/post-252374

I recommend you look through this thread as it will cover some of the things you'll need to do and also documents my changes to the following tool (linked below) as a means of not taking the radiator out.

You will need a kit like this to lock the engine while removing the bolt:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D666P9W7?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

Here's what you find when you get it all out:

Going back together.

The actual seal

 

[almost_nick]

I don't think it's a terrible job other than as Rover Range says getting the crankshaft bolt off (and on - pay attention to thread direction). Absolutely go with a very big 3/4" breaker bar as I think you'll be getting close to 600lbft of torque (this is not exact given the torque spec on that bolt followed by 270deg of extra rotation). Here's the post where I put mine back on:

https://www.landroverworld.org/threads/looking-to-purchase-timing-chain-tools.45674/post-252374

I recommend you look through this thread as it will cover some of the things you'll need to do and also documents my changes to the following tool (linked below) as a means of not taking the radiator out.

You will need a kit like this to lock the engine while removing the bolt:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D666P9W7?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

Here's what you find when you get it all out:

View attachment 26712

Going back together.
View attachment 26713
The actual seal
View attachment 26714

Thanks for the info!

Are these timing chain covers 1 time use? I think I saw a video stating the gasket seal for the timing chain cover is built into the cover and are 1 time use.

Just trying to figure out if it’s just easier to buy a new cover that has the crankshaft seal already installed and a fresh gasket?

 

[Rover Range]

The gasket is made on to the cover.
I always use a new cover. Be sure to use some RTV silicone at the oil pan to block seam.