LR3 Differential Options

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jwest

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The noise is only present on throttle but does not change with the amount of throttle input.

ok do this test: get up to 50-60 mph speed, find a slight rise or just slightly increase speed on a flat, enough that it has to work some, not coasting at all. Mine felt like a pretty strong pulsating that in the beginning was mostly just feel, barely any actual sound, but as it got worse while they replaced other things, it became an audible sound from below with windows up.

The odd thing was the moment I let off the gas entirely, like 100%, it would instantly go away. Then start under throttle again but really it was the most on a grade or whatever would need a drop from 6th to 5th.

The feel/sound was like a mini locomotive under there starting to chug. It was crazy.

Dealer techs couldn't figure it out. They replaced the freaking drive shafts and the front differential LOL Local indy crazy messy rover shop guy figured it out in 5 minutes. Told me "probably ought to get those idiots to cover the cost for wild goose chase".

Now, once he showed me, I could feel the play in the half shafts too. It has to be lifted with no pressure on the tires so they're free to move. Then you can actually yank on it up/down or fore/aft and feel it **** back and forth due to the worn bearing or interface.

Now, if it's determined to be the cause, most of the front suspension has to come apart to replace them so you really should also do both top and bottom control arms, sway bar bushings, and end links. It'll feel awesome then and none of those are the culprit but they'll tighten and dampen the whole front end nicely.
 

heidenseek

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My symptoms seem to have changed slightly. On the freeway right when I let of throttle I feel a brief rumble/vibration through the pedal. I also notice a similar feeling at low speeds at partial throttle/light acceleration.
 

jwest

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until you do what i suggested off the ground, you cannot determine if it's the half shafts
 

heidenseek

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Got it in the air this weekend and there was no play in either of the front half shafts.
 

jondvd

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So when the cv axle (half shaft) is replaced, does anything have to be greased? When I took the seal off the diff, it looked like it was packed with grease. The diff oil was very dirty so I guess it could've been built up sludge. If it needs to be greased, what should I use?

20181028_220133.jpg


20181028_220107.jpg
 

jondvd

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The second picture is the diff oil I drained and the cv axle seal on the diff. The seal looked like it was in really good condition but I replaced anyways as suggested from guys here. I'm going to change the diff oil twice or more.
 

Wedgehead

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So does the dreaded wherrrr follow with a clunk? My rear diff is leaking, so it has oil in it but lucky 8 sells
BOLT AND GO ARB FRONT & REAR LOCKER KITS

Screen Shot 2018-10-29 at 2.59.11 PM.png
 

jondvd

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Nothing broke on mine but the oil is very dirty. I think if it's just leaking it shouldn't cost very much. The seals are about $20 for each side but not sure about the main diff gasket. I used royal purple max gear oil which was $96 for 6 qts. I got extra so I could change the front and rear diffs twice cuz it's so dirty. It might be a little late but I'm going to start changing my diff oil every 30k miles now. Diff rebuild kit is about $400
 

Houm_WA

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Is your rear diff a locker? The "clunk" could be failing clutch packs.

I have replaced the front diff once and the rear diff twice. Since then, I did fluid changes every ~1500 miles until it came back clean and the magnet was bare. Now I do them every couple years which for me is about 7500 miles. Same with the T-Case?

Overkill? Probably
Cheap insurance? Certainly
 

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